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This is a discussion on Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Thanks... I do them both at the same time......

  1. #61
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    Ok

    Thanks... I do them both at the same time...

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  3. #62
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    Oil Change Frequency

    I have probably been driving a lot longer than most (I'm old, but I never grew up!!). When I started driving, my father used to buy "recycled oil" from American Auto for probably less than $2/ Gal. I was driving his 54 chevy at the time and it burned a LOT of oil.

    When I started to buy my own cars, I had to decide what oil to use and how frequently to change it. I have been using "on-sale dino" oil for many years. I don't race (much) but I use the entire engine design RPM range (red line); I have always used "engine braking"; and I often hit the rev limiter. I have always changed my oil and filters (Fram until I got smart) at 5K miles. I have put over 185K on a 85 Jetta, 190K on a 91 SE-R, 60K on a 2000 CRV, and I currently drive a 93 SE-R with 221K. These cars were traded, retired or sold for reasons other than engine problems (clutch, rust, wanted-a new one, wrecked, etc.). None of these cars ever used or burned ANY oil.

    I am currently using synthetic oil (usually M1) in the same 93 SE-R, an 01 Sentra, 03 CR-V and 03 WRX because I can and it's better oil than "dino" oil. It's easier on the engine for winter starting and for hot summer, highway driving and if you frequently "hammer" your car. I change it at 5K and I use factory filters or some other "good" brand of filter. I use 5W-30 in the winter for starting ease and 10W30 or 40 for summer highway use.

    No one is going to convince me that I need to change oil more frequently than every 5K miles. To me it's a waste and there is no benefit to the engine. I suppose if I raced daily or each weekend a more frequent change cycle might be justified but for the average (aggressive) driver, 5K is more than enough to insure engine longivity.

  4. #63
    Registered User MacGomez's Avatar
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    As I mentioned earlier in this thread, the dealer that sold me my car told me I could go 7000 miles between changes if I used a synthetic oil and a scooby filter. Okay, that sounds like a really long time...

    Yesterday morning I go into the dealership to pick up a filter (WRX just hit it's first 3000 miles) and the guy at the parts counter tells me if I buy Motul synthetic oil and use the scooby filter, I can go... (wait for it)...

    10,000 miles between changes!!!

    WTF???

    -MacGomez-
    '04 Java Black Impreza WRX Wagon
    Minor mods, nothing spectacular (yet!)

  5. #64
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I'd not give any thought to a comment from the parts counter in this instance, I'd look for analyses.

    As much as I'm a fully synth oil fan, I do have a few thoughts on this:

    Motul in particular is a fantastic oil but its costly in the Americas and the 300v version 15W-40 is (a) not permissible for warranty purposes, as it's an incorrect grade and (b) a fully ester based product sold in a metallic container.

    Note that 300v is the flagship oil, so I'm assuming this is what the parts guy was referring to. The (b) bit gets me more worried than the (a) bit, frankly - can someone comment on whether 300v is hygroscopic or not? Would it actually be suitable for long drains, or would water be an issue? Any data on this?

    Thanks,
    SD
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    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
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  6. #65
    Registered User MacGomez's Avatar
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    I've just done my first oil change on my 04 WRX, odometer reads 3600 miles. Would have done it at 3000, but I had to wait until the weekend and I've got a loooooooong weekly commute.

    Now some newbie questions for ya...

    1.) The jacka$$ at the Subaru parts counter gave me the wrong sized drain plug washer. I put the plug back on without the washer until the next change. Was that a big mistake???

    2.) I switched from dino to synthetic, and used Castrol 5w-30 (it was on sale.) I noticed a lot of guys on this thread using Mobile. Is the Castrol any good?

    3.) I let the old dino oil drain out thoroughly (I left it dripping for over an hour). It took 4.5 quarts of synthetic to show up even a little bit on the dipstick after idling the car for 15 minutes. I took it for a quick, high RPM spin, checked the stick, and it showed up right at the F mark. Not above it, but RIGHT ON IT. Is that bad?

    Sorry for the newb questions! I appreciate the help I've been getting on ClubWRX! You guys are great!

    -MacGomez-
    '04 Java Black Impreza WRX Wagon
    Minor mods, nothing spectacular (yet!)

  7. #66
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    You should have just reused the old washer. If it's not leaking without the washer, you're probably ok.

    You need to check the level at least a few minutes after you shut off the engine so the oil can drain from the engine back into the pan. Too much oil is supposed to be a bad thing. If it's above the F mark, you can loosen the drain plug a little to allow some oil to drain until you get down to the proper level.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
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  8. #67
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    Im real confused.......I was told that you had to replace the nut everytime we change the oil. is that true?

  9. #68
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    You're supposed to. But in a pinch, a reused nut is better than none.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
    If you're not going to spend your money on women or alcohol, you might as well spend it on cars.

  10. #69
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    What would you all suggest is the best oil and filter combination for for a WRX in Southern California. I ask because I want to know if the heat down here makes a difference in the type of oil I should use. I usually let my friends change my oil because i'm always at work and he has a WRX as well, but I want to start doing it myself. he has his own opinion about which is a good combination, but I want to hear all of your opinions. Thanks



    -Andrew
    ONE WHO KNOWS NOTHING CAN UNDERSTAND NOTHIN...

  11. #70
    Registered User AjIsDope's Avatar
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    Hey BlackRex22 -
    I just did an oil change on my car: Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-30. Car drives just fine. I used a Fram filter. The only ones I found at the store were that and Pro Choice. Ewwwww.....

  12. #71
    Registered User BlackRex22's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info AJ, when is our next meet for WRX's.
    ONE WHO KNOWS NOTHING CAN UNDERSTAND NOTHIN...

  13. #72
    Registered User AjIsDope's Avatar
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    FYI, the oil was about $4.99/quart I beleive. :-/ Not sure when the next meet is, but on NASIOC the SCIC members meet all the time.

  14. #73
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    Originally posted by MacGomez
    Now some newbie questions for ya...
    1.) The jacka$$ at the Subaru parts counter gave me the wrong sized drain plug washer. I put the plug back on without the washer until the next change. Was that a big mistake???
    The crush washer is there to collapse before you can over-tighten the drain plug and strip the threads on the sump. Assuming you didn't over-do it and you don't have a leak, you are probably OK - it won't come loose on its own. If you're worried, get the washer, use your thumb to stop the flow of (COLD!!!) oil, and put the washer on with the thinner side toward the sump.

    2.) I switched from dino to synthetic, and used Castrol 5w-30 (it was on sale.) I noticed a lot of guys on this thread using Mobile. Is the Castrol any good?
    In the US, only Castrol 0W-30 specifically marked "Made in Germany" is truly a synthetic motor oil in the science-style use of the word IMO. The other Syntec grades are *legally* sold as synthetic oil in the US, but they're hydrocracked mineral oils from API Group III base stocks. Regardless, what really matters is performance, and in that sense Castrol's own GTX has been shown to give favourable oil analysis numbers on other fora, even bettering Syntec. In short the Syntec is acceptable but expensive; Mobil 1 is a true synthetic for the same money, and GTX is a good motor oil for less money.

    3.) I let the old dino oil drain out thoroughly (I left it dripping for over an hour). It took 4.5 quarts of synthetic to show up even a little bit on the dipstick after idling the car for 15 minutes. I took it for a quick, high RPM spin, checked the stick, and it showed up right at the F mark. Not above it, but RIGHT ON IT. Is that bad?
    No, but it's certainly frustrating. I've been through similar hard times trying to get an accurate reading myself. You might be a little low assuming you drained fully; let it sit overnight and then read it.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  15. #74
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    I'm a long time synthetic user. I started using Mobil 1 back in 1986. Since that time, I've used nothing but synthetics. I use Mobil 1 10w30 in my wife's cars and in my own cars if they're non-turbo. I switched to Redline years ago for any turbo cars that I own. I always changed it every 3000 miles but on my current car (WRX), since I average 20,000 miles/year, I decided to go with 5,000 mile drain intervals. I now have 30,000 miles on it and no problems - not that I expected any. I could probably go longer if I changed the filter, but 5000 is as long as I'm willing to go.
    I always use 10w30, but with the WRX I use 10w30 in the winter months and 10w40 in the hot summer months. Or sometimes I mix 10w30 with 20w50 to end up with essentially a 12w34 or a 14w38. Those small turbo engines can get really hot if you drive hard and/or have any mods. I just can't imagine owning a car like this and not using synthetic oil.

    The 0w40 oils interest me, but one thing bothers me. How can they obtain a viscosity range this wide without the use of viscosity index improvers? Some 10w30 synthetics use no VI improvers due to the synthetic base stock's natural properties, but I'm quite sure that even the best synthetics must use VI improvers to acheive this viscosity range. Am I wrong about this? If so, please show me where I can find credible information on the subject and not just heresay.
    Thanks.

  16. #75
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    Here in Denver area, you can buy 20 qt. jug of Mobil 1 5w30 for $18 at Walmart. That's cheaper than the cheapest synthetic oil at Autozone or Pepboys. Not sure about 10w30, but you probably want to check in your area.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
    If you're not going to spend your money on women or alcohol, you might as well spend it on cars.

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