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This is a discussion on Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I deliberately changed my oil after just a couple of hundred miles for this very reason. Used a fine paper ...

  1. #46
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    I deliberately changed my oil after just a couple of hundred miles for this very reason.

    Used a fine paper and mesh paint strainer to see if it picked up any metal shavings (I was looking for small pieces of aluminum from the multiple post cast machining processes). Sure enough, I found three small four or five millimeter aluminum shavings.

    Its more or less 'normal' for this to happen in a new engine. I repeated the same procedure at 3,000 miles; oil was contaminant free.
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  3. #47
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    Aha! OK there we go. It's good to hear someone has gone through this and lived to tell the tale; I bet many people are breathing a sigh of relief.
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  4. #48
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    I switched to mobil 1, I just let the dealer do my oil though. I used to do all my oil changes on my last car though. I like to have the receipts of the oil changes and keep them with the car if I ever sell it, so basically I have records.

    Here's a question, I switched to mobil one synthetic at about 7000 miles, I've got about 11k now, I swear my oil seems a little low. You guys ever find that your oil level is low at about 2k miles after changing your oil?

  5. #49
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    Yes! After my first solo oil change to M1 10W-30, I noticed I am ~500 to 600 cc low only 1230 miles into the drain interval! I attribute this to several things:

    1. I didn't add the correct amount; I drained thoroughly and then added 4 qts, ran the motor, shut down, went away, came back and check the oil. I added to 1 mm below the F mark, which meant an additional 0.2 qts at the time. Notice I switch my units back and forth; anyone with more than one wristwatch *never* knows the time... Anyway, I started off with 0.6 qts less than spec'ed - I swear the level was correct not just that day but later on that week! I had assumed I'd drained thoroughly and simply needed to get to the proper level, volumes be damned. This is now perplexing me; I've seen it happen before in our MR2 where if you go by the dipstick you end up adding less than spec, then into the interval you're topping off. I don't know if this is because you're low and are accelerating your natural oil use or what?

    2. I drove the car harder at times.

    3. The motor will put a piston through the block and burst into flames at any moment now - NO I'm just kidding!!!!

    So I added oil to the F mark. I am now checking only when the car has sat for many hours. I think part of our collective problem is that the dipstick is not a good measuring tool, another is that we actually check this stuff out - many people simply don't and just go on to live their lives.

    I don't think there is anything wrong with the motor - mine is stock, and shows no leaks. Previously, I'd seen ~300 ml dino oil go away over 3K miles (two drains ago, from 3K to 6K) but none I could measure on the last drain (6K to 9K).

    I'll be checking very regularly to keep an eye on it. My wife's driving it 40 miles a day this week, so we'll see.

    Anybody else a little low?

    SD
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  6. #50
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    Nevermind, I retract my previous statement.

    I checked the oil level a few times recently, and, right after I went out and got a quart of oil actually. Its right at the fill level, hasn't moved in several days. Paranoia?

    I tend to change my oil 3k miles or less sometimes if I feel like I was hard on my engine. My reasoning behind this is because heat I believe does break down viscosity. Since the turbo is oil cooled, it seems that the abuse the oil must go through by sitting in the turbo housing after the engine is off is pretty substantial, turbo timer or not.

    When oil loses its viscosity, isn't that the chemical bonds in the oil breaking apart, the same bonds that help it lubricate??

    I do know in my last car, adding an oil cooled supercharger meant being fanatical about oil levels and viscosity. I dont mean to sound like an advertisement here, but changing it early never hurts.

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    Amsoil - Synthetic

    I use Amsoil pretty much exclusively. I let the dealer change the oil, and just bring the Amsoil. I let them use a oem filter, and I user Subaru's recommended oil weight. I have been using it for about 10 years in different vehicles including sportbikes. I guess Mobil is basically the same (Amsoil uses Mobil "base-stock" for its synthetics). I know all the companies are always saying their stuff is better than the other's but I just kinda stick with what has never done me wrong.
    I joined the "preferred membership" thing on Amsoil's website and for $20.00 per year, I get my oil about a buck cheaper than retail. So i order it for my friends and split the membership cost that way.
    I always go over 3,000 miles on the changes, with the amount of driving I do i'd be changing my oil too often with a 3k interval.

  8. #52
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    In every car I've run synthetic in, I've changed it at about 5k intervals. Never had any problems. I always had cars that used a bit of oil, usually put in 1-2 qt's between changes (it'd use 1 every 1500 or so) I think it was because I downshifted to slow down too much. I think that sucks a bit of oil past the rings as you're turning the combustion chamber into a vacuum chamber. Something to keep in mind. I'm trying not to downshift the WRX as much. Usually when coming to a stop from 5th gear I don't drop down to 4th till about 40mph (I used to do so at 60 in my other car)

    I just changed the 04 for the first time at 967 miles and put in Valvoline 5W30. Undecided yet if I'm going to switch to Mobil 1. Also undecided which filters to use. I always like using OEM's, but these are harder to get. I'll either order a few at a time online or just use Mobil 1 filters. I plan my next change for 3k.
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  9. #53
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    Wanted to keep this topic going

    I have always used Valvoline full synthetic oil in all my other cars and it has always done me good. How is your car driving right now randy98mtu? I want to change my oil before my long road trip next week. I have about 2800+ miles on my car right now. The road trip is about 400 miles roundtrip.
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    I just bought my 04 WRX Wagon a couple weeks ago, and the dealer told me to change the oil at the 3000 mark, then every 3000 after that.

    Now here's the crazy part... he told me if I used a Subaru filter and all synthetic oil, I could go 7000 miles between changes.

    Is this guy smoking crack, or is that true? 7000 miles sounds like a looooooong time between changes...

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    Drugs are funny....

  12. #56
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    Originally posted by SD_GR
    I think part of our collective problem is that the dipstick is not a good measuring tool.
    I changed my oil a week ago, and for the life of me, couldn't get a good reading on the dipstick. The oil mark was hardly ever a horizontal line. It was usually V-shaped, like oil on the side of the chamber or above the marks was getting on the dipstick and flowing down it. I guessed the bottom of the V was the real level. The other thing is a tissue is not really enough to clean the dipstick including much higher than the notch. I'll try using several tissues in the future.
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  13. #57
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    Oil Filter

    For those who change oil every 3000 miles do you also change the oil filter every 3k mi? Is it ok if you change the filter every 6k?
    (If this is on this topic already I'm sorry but I was doing some quick reading.)

    Thanks.

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    Yup, every 3K miles. Its really cheap insurance!
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  15. #59
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    Re: Oil Filter

    Originally posted by potenzaus
    For those who change oil every 3000 miles do you also change the oil filter every 3k mi? Is it ok if you change the filter every 6k?
    Generally yes, and depending on your part of the world this may be common practice, but in our cars the filter is so easy to change it's trivial to slap on another filter every oil change and write off the time/hassle/$ as well spent.

    If you take a filter from a new car, or a filter from a car driven in a dusty environment hard for an entended drain, dry it out and cut it open, you may find all sorts of stuff in there (shrapnel, dirt, orangutangs etc.).

    A better option is to do the opposite of what you said IMO: Say you want to go to 5K miles on a true synthetic oil (only Group IV or higher - Mobil1, Motul 300v, RedLine, Amsoil (NOT XL series!!!), Lubro Moly and so on). You could get a fresh filter, drop in 4.8 qts, and drive 2.5 k mi. Then, change the filter with a fresh one, top off the oil (replenishing the additive package and extending its life), and go another 2.5 k.

    Even this is generally not needed; just change oil and filter together and be done with it IMO.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  16. #60
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    Although synthetic oil is good for 10k or more, the filters are not. So definitely make sure you change the filter every time. The reason people still change their oil just as often as with dino oil is because the filters still need to be changed at the normal interval.
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