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Oil Change

66K views 184 replies 67 participants last post by  triscal 
#1 ·
#78 ·
Oil Weight

So SOA doesn't approve of 0W30 or 20w50.... :confused: If you have absolute confidence that an oil outside the (recommended) range of oils "approved" by SOA is suitable to your car, USE IT!!!;)

There is probably not a single oil, commonly available, that will hurt your Subbie. Some are slated for better gas mileage (5W30); some are better for really cold weather starts (0W??) and some are better for racing (20W??) or straight 30 - ??, but there ain't one that will "hurt" your engine. As long as it's a Brand Name and you put the proper amount in and change it and your filter in a reasonable frenquency, your good to go.

Mr. Dealer isn't going to know you put (God forbid!) 20W?? in and you aren't getting the company average fuel economy!! or if your pounding across the desert at 85 mpg in 110+ deg. F heat and your running straight 50 weight...

The stuff you read in the owners manual is probably based on (a). a certain average fuel economy SOA has to meet, (b) Mr. Average American (slow-assed) driver, (c) typical American life style (hockey games, market, pick kids up, go to gym, ect...), and (d) stuff we probably don't know about. I doubt engine longevity (during racing!) is high on the list. If it lasts 100k (average, type (b) driver) that's good enough!!

Just LIE if you blow your engine and this subject comes up at your dealer / warranty and you had "unapproved viscosity" oil in your car. Something other than oil viscosity probably caused the engine to blow.
 
#79 · (Edited)
20W-50 is OK by SOA; it's 15W-50 that's not approved.

A dealer *can* find out what you've put in the sump; for one, (s)he'll ask for your receipts, and the weight may be on it. Also, an analysis can confirm/deny whether the oil was an "OK" grade.

It's unlikely, even highly unlikely, that things will come to that, but if they do and you've not got the papers and not followed the book...

Plus, it's not a tremendous idea to lie during any business transaction, even for something as trivial as oil viscosity.

Your point about CAFE requirements, average drivers living average (car) lives, and 100K mile cycles is well taken, and I fully agree with you that an oil-related failure is rare. On the other hand, it's quite difficult to prove a failure was oil-related after the fact; small lubricant companies that don't bother will API spec'ing their oils or cannot meet the API requirements probably rely on this when they give their (worthless) guarantee.

I appreciate your stance and certainly see your point, but I'm still sticking to API SL oils with a weight specifically listed in the book for the remaining 40K of my motor warranty period, with receipts and used oil filters dated and stashed (I even stash used crush washers, but that's just me...). Better safe...
 
#80 ·
20W-50 is OK by SOA; it's 15W-50 that's not approved

Actually I probably lied because you can screw up an engine by the WRONG viscosity at the wrong time....but it's not a common occurance..and the operator has to screw to more than once...rev it ICE COLD with cold ,thick oil; rev it HOT with low, thin oil; run it with LOW oil ect.......

The safest approach is exacty what you are doing...I just question what the factory puts in the owners manual and the basis of what it is based on. I think it might be other than what we are looking for.... longevity, reliability, endurance, performance...I think they are looking at GAS MILEAGE, emmisions, and other stuff we don't care too much about.

Where are you living? SD_GR???

I'm in NH close to ME.
 
#81 ·
California, where it was 40 C three days ago! Like yours, my manual says 5W-30 is preferred. By whom, and for what, remains a mystery to me - it *is* most likely fuel economy corporate standard stuff like you suspect. So we're certainly in agreement on that.

Consider that in the EU, the same motor in the same car uses 5W-40. So, I can be in Scotland in the dead of winter and use a 40 weight oil, but I have to use a thinner oil in a much hotter climate. I agree SOA does not have longevity or "us" in mind when they bless some viscosities in the manual and leave others out.

I know of people that use 60W or *higher* oil in very warm climates, and in fact even SOA says 10W-50 is OK. Clearly, a thick 50W in New England in winter is not the greatest for motor life, but it'd probably work nicely in Death Valley.

I kinda wish they'd put a 5W-40 in there, I could run Motul or Mobil Delvac 1 in that weight.
 
#83 ·
I am 1,85 m tall and weigh over 100 kg, and never had a problem fitting under the bumper to change oil. No trick involved, just lie down in fro nt of the car and you can reach everything with your arms.
 
#85 ·
Lie on the ground on your back, with the length of your body normal to the car. Reach under the bumper with your arms to grasp the filter and drain plug.

My car is stock ride height also. I can see a large person having problems with a lowered car, but otherwise you should be clear.
 
#86 ·
sorry that if my questions are soooo dumb. I'm just a newbie of car. This is my first attempt to do something for my car. so, please bear with me :p

does that mean your head doesn't really actually go under the bumper? Like the pic below? (of course, -------O <-this is the head)

| Bumper
myself |______
--------O

I found that there is no way to slide my head under the bumper, even if I could do that, I guess I could kiss the oil pan or whatever. :D There is no space for me to turn my head.
 
#88 ·
You don't have to slide your head under the bumper, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Try lying down on your back in front of the car with your head on its side -- you ought to see the drain bolt and if you look forward and toward the passenger wheel of that, you'll see the filter hanging there.
 
#90 ·
do you guys know that in europe they put only syntetics and typical oil change is every 15k km? In this case when you put synt oil it should be around 7500miles between changes. I do it on my Neon using M1 10W30 and everything works fine. I was wondering did any of you try it?
 
#92 ·
I am nearing the 4k mile mark, and am planning to switch to synthetic then. I see the M1 5w-30 in most stores. But, where do you guys get your M1 0w-40??? I can't seem to find it anywhere! I'd prefer to use that, but, if I can't find it, I guess I'll have to get the M1 5w-30.
 
#93 ·
Autozone carries M1 0W-40 in many markets, as do other regional parts chains.

Mobil are apparently releasing a 0W-30R race oil formulation (that's probably not useful for a road car that sees extended or even reasonable drain intervals, but we'll have to wait and see) and a 5W-40 formulation that they seem to want to label "SUV" oil (this is completely meaningless of course). The 5W-40 seems interesting to me, since their Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 is the hardest to find (truck stops are a good bet).

There's a stink about the Mobil "bike" formula 10W-40 being little more than a re-badged Delvac, but that's neither here nor there...

Meanwhile, other rumours have Mobil going for ACEA A3 spec on their 10W-30 formulation, and I'm excited about that since their 10W-30 is what I use year round in CA. ACEA A3 is the toughest "industry-wide" spec (there are tougher specs like the Merc MB 229.x series and the VAG VW 5xx series or the BMW Long-Life stuff, but the oils that meet those are at the very least ACEA A3 oils).
 
#94 ·
WRBFarmer, don't worry - my question will make you look like an expert/! After years of really awful cars, I finally treated myself to an 04 WRX, but I'm definitely "automotively challenged" and I'm afraid I'll mess it up by not treating it right.

I took it to get it's second oil change (at about 6,900 miles) and I was dangerously low on oil. The mechanic asked if I wanted to switch to synthetic oil, but since I didn't know anything about it, I thought I'd wait until the next change and see if I could learn some of the pros and cons. After reading this thread and checking the owners manual, it seems that it won't do any harm and it will help provide some extra protection for the high revving engine. I'll be driving in winter weather, but nothing too extreme and although I drive a lot, I don't drive it too hard.

So is there anything else that I should know about switching to synthetic oil ? Also, do you think it's normal that I'd be that low on oil (and I just need to check it more) or do you think that it might be a sign of a leak? I'm sorry to ask such basic questions, but I do appreciate all I've learned "lurking" here - Thanks!
 
#96 ·
I'm embarassed to admit this because I've since learned how stupid I was, but I didn't check it since the last oil change.

I had it changed the first time at just over 3,000 miles and the person who changed it didn't mention anything unusual. I had it changed the second time after about 3,900 additional miles (for a total of 6,900). By dangerously low, I mean well below the level where you are supposed to add oil, but not quite to empty (although I don't think I was too far from that).

I've since read a number of the threads in the back pages and realize I need to check the oil for this engine more frequently than I had to check on my old cars.
 
#97 ·
Yes, check whenever you have a chance, it never hurts.

My oil consumption is between 200 and 600 ml of Mobil 1 every 3000 miles, roughly. Straight M1 10W-30 gives the highest consumption; a mix of 3.8 bottles 10W-30 with 1 bottle of 15W-50 gives the lowest.

Oil will be consumed at different rates depending on the environment, chemical properties of the oil, and use patterns -- mechanical issues aside. If you have a leak, you ought to be able to find it, or have your dealer check carefully for one, but in general all cars will use some oil (though in some cars it's nearly negligible, and those owners typically say "I use no oil..."). Most makers say 1 qt per 1000 mi is "OK" though I'd be concerned about a rate that high and change oil types and/or go to the dealer.

There are no concerns worth mentioning regarding your switch to synthetics, but you must follow the viscosity and oil change interval recommendations in the manual to maintain your warranty.
 
#99 ·
I just bought a WRX and it has its factory oil in it. What comes in it out of the factory and if it is just regular oil, should i step to a full synthetic or is a synthetic blend okay.

i have heard from mechanics that if you wait too long to go full synthetic that you run the chances of seals leaking due to the lack of detergents that conventional oil has.

thanks
 
#100 ·
oh yeah, i have also heard that synthetic oils are better for turbochargers?!?!?!?!?!?! i hear lots of things though, and i am not a mechanic, so i dont know what to believe! haha. thanks again.
 
#101 ·
Have a look at the thread from the beginning. Basically though, *any* API SL 5W-30 oil changed at 3750 mile intervals (or up to 7500 mile intervals depending on your situation) will be adequate for a motor life of 60,001 miles.

Beyond that, you have too many choices to list really.

If your seals have deteriorated a good synthetic will be coming out of them within 10K miles of switching IMO. If your seals are fine, a good synthetic will keep them that way as long as possible.

A typical conventional oil will probably have a lower flash point and volatility than a good synthetic, and will tend to respond to shearing forces not quite as well as a good synthetic. This trend will get more pronounced as the oil change interval gets larger, meaning that if you're going to change oil every 1,000 miles use any API SL oil (the cheapest) but if you want to go beyond 5,000 mile drain intervals take a close look at high quality synthetics, again IMO.

There are many synthetic blends that are quite good, and many full synthetics that are not synthetic at all. To figure all this out you can either use trial and error or look for used oil analysis data from owners with the same vehicle you have. Subaru motors seem to be setting a trend for being easy on their oil, though they might snack on a little now and then depending on the area, use, and the type of oil.

Find the link to the Subaru used oil analysis spreadsheet form, I think it's on this thread and I know I posted it. You'll end up with info from a variety of vehicles and a variety of oils, and you'll see how each faired so you can make up your mind.

I switched to synth at 12K. Others have done it sooner, some have done it later, some never go to synth. I just changed oil yesterday, after another 5,000 mile drain interval. I used M1 10W-30 again, a fresh drain plug crush washer, and a Purolator filter that I pre-filled with oil before installing. I then went extra-anal-retentive and gave the ignition key two or three minute turns so that the motor would turn over without catching. Then when it finally caught on the oil pressure light *never* lit. This was a useless psycho thing to do at 12 am on a weekday, but I did it...
 
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