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This is a discussion on Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; No comsumption. This 1k change was a dealer freebie, after the recommended break in period so I dont have the ...

  1. #31
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    No comsumption. This 1k change was a dealer freebie, after the recommended break in period so I dont have the filter...
    '12 WRB Sedan

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  3. #32
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    To ease your mind, maybe pick up a filter and crush washer, 5 qts of oil, and swap it again. This won't hurt either and you'll get an idea if anything fishy is going on. I'm trying hard to remember but can't recall any shavings on the dipstick - but also note I didn't run my finger on it when checking the level either. I'm assuming no "wild animal" noises from the motor and no odd behaviour from the car, in which case you're probably OK I guess.

    You might also want to ask this question to the following forum, containing tribology pros, fanatics, and self-proclaimed "neurotics," in a good sense, many of whom own Scoobies and all of whom are very friendly and knowledgable:

    http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1

    On the main site, you can navigate to their used oil analysis section and download a spreadsheet with a lot of Subaru-specific data for reference.
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  4. #33
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    Great info once again! I have been on the oil site, but I will post. The motor sounds great, no noises at all, silky smooth. But your right since I am nuts, I think I will just do a full change myself tmrw, filter also!
    '12 WRB Sedan

  5. #34
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I admit I worry about stuff too! See what they say at BobIsTheOilGuy and go from there to be sure, I'd say. Let us know what happens, this is interesting and I'm sure somebody else will run across it with their new WRX too.
    SD
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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  6. #35
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    As I figured they recommend to change it, seems like sage advice!

    http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=002030

    Thanks once again! I am off to the parts store....
    '12 WRB Sedan

  7. #36
    Registered User RLsChMiDt's Avatar
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    I've heard when switching from normal oil to synthetic, it's a good idea to buy some special fluid (you can get at most auto parts stores). It's a fluid specifically for this process. You pour it in with your oil (before you empty old oil), let the car idle for 5 min or so, then drain your oil. Then put the synthetic in like normal. Every oil change prior should be synthetic, but you won't have to worry about this special fluid, as it's used only once.

    Just an idea, I'm gonna use this for my next change just to be sure.
    -Ryan |Dub-Yuh Our Ex Ess Tee Eye| My Car

  8. #37
    tan
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    Thinking Man's Engine tan's Avatar
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    the "oil flushes" such as Gunk Oil Flush are just petroleum distillates.

    Pour a quart of kersosene in....it's cheaper

  9. #38
    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    Originally posted by tan
    the "oil flushes" such as Gunk Oil Flush are just petroleum distillates.

    Pour a quart of kersosene in....it's cheaper
    yeah, or you could just skip that step, b/c it's totally useless.

    dR

  10. #39
    Registered User Carl AMG's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SD_GR
    None at all. Actually, there's compelling reasons to *use* M1 0W-40. It is their flagship gasoline engine oil in the USA. It meets ACEA A3-02 and Merc's MB229.3; both are very stringent specs (whereas API SL is laughable in comparison). I can only think of a very select group of oils commonly available in the USA that meet these specs and are therefore engineered to such high standards (and M1 15W-50 is one of them).

    I assume M1 0W-40 is not derived from the same basic formulation as their xW-30 series (these oils are still quite good, probably the best on the shelves in most stores right now, meeting ACEA A5).

    The only reason I don't use M1 0W-40 is the warranty requirement. The book specs 5W- or 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 20W-50. Not 0W-40 and not 15W-50, so no Mobil1 ACEA A3 oils! Sad, silly, but true.

    SD
    I think the reason for not including this viscosity in the owner's manual is probably the scarcity of oil in this viscosity. I think for areas of the country/world where we get four seasons the 0W would be better protection in the winter and the 40W provide the protection needed for extreme heat, modded cars or hard driving. I've read, besides being AMG and Porsche's preferred viscosity, that the 0W-40 is the darling of the Mobil Oil engineers.

    I'm not too worried about the warranty issue personally but understand your position. I find it hard to believe that Subaru would analyze the oil to be able to determine the viscosity and then try to deny a claim when you've upgraded to a synthetic oil that has covered all the viscosity ranges. It seems to me you would have more wear issues (at cold start up) going from the standard 5W-30 to a 10W-30 or 10W-40 than from the quicker flowing 0W-40.

    BTW... I've decided to switch to synthetic (Mobil 1 0W-40) at 5,000 miles rather than holding out until 10,000 miles. Summer is coming up (as well as serious power mods courtesy TurboXS) and I feel more comfortable with the additional protection. I think I've probably driven it hard enough that it's fully broken in by now.
    Last edited by Carl AMG; 04-25-2003 at 07:23 AM.
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  11. #40
    Registered User Richie03's Avatar
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    I have been running Mobile One 5w-30 since 1000miles. Works fine so far. Mostly all winter driving, but now that summer is coming up what would you guys recommend? No serious mods, I like to drive hard but not to the point of beating it.

  12. #41
    Registered User RLsChMiDt's Avatar
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    Originally posted by dark_rex
    yeah, or you could just skip that step, b/c it's totally useless.

    dR
    Is the reassurance a good idea if it only costs ~$3? I would think so, especially for me. But everyone's opinion varies...
    -Ryan |Dub-Yuh Our Ex Ess Tee Eye| My Car

  13. #42
    Moderator GV27's Avatar
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    Well, it just plain doesn't do anything. Stuff like that CAN clean deposits out of your engine. I recommend BG QuickClean. But it doesn't do anything for switching to a synthetic oil.
    "Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me." -Jesus

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  14. #43
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    trace amounts of metal

    I just did my oil change at 1440 miles. I have also noticed a small amount of metal partical in the oil pan. I did not check my oil upstick before I changed my oil. So my question is, is it normal to see some amount of metal partical???
    Also I wasn't able to take the oil filter off with my old oil filter wrench. Which kind of oil filter wrench do you guys use if you change your oil yourself? It will a big help to me. Thank you



    WRXGOOOOO

  15. #44
    Registered User WRXGO's Avatar
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    Oil Change

    I accidentally put too much oil into the engine. I checked the upstick, it shows the oil level is at above the notch point! What can I do to bring down the oil level to inbetween Low and Full?

    Thanks.....



    WRXGOOO

  16. #45
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    Re: Oil Change

    Originally posted by WRXGO
    I accidentally put too much oil into the engine. I checked the upstick, it shows the oil level is at above the notch point! What can I do to bring down the oil level to inbetween Low and Full?

    Thanks.....



    WRXGOOO

    Pull off the drain plug, and drain some... If you drain too much add some.. As for the filter use a smaller wrench perhaps. Mine from NAPA works great!
    '12 WRB Sedan

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