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This is a discussion on Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; my car is actually a 2005 and i dont really want to switch to snyth yet thats why, and i ...

  1. #151
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    my car is actually a 2005 and i dont really want to switch to snyth yet thats why, and i just know the 5w-30 is suppose to be for my car. I just dont know what oil to use. so the drive clean is a synth oil? or is it just a sytnh blend? should i use that and later on 10k miles i should switch to synth?
    2005 Aspen White WRX

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  3. #152
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    The technicians at my dealership say that the engines are flushed out at the factory and that there won't be any grit in the oil from breaking in. Why then do they still recommend the first oil change to be at 3750??

  4. #153
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    Break-in occurs the first few thousand miles driven after the vehicle leaves the factory. That's when metal shavings from wear end up in the oil.
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  5. #154
    Registered User wrxrolla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WTypeRogerX
    Break-in occurs the first few thousand miles driven after the vehicle leaves the factory. That's when metal shavings from wear end up in the oil.
    That's incorrect. Engines used to be brand new when you bought a brand new car. Now all engines are broke in at the factory before being installed because too many people did not follow the recommended break in period oil change.
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  6. #155
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    okay, so as unbelieveable and embarassing as it sounds...

    i've never changed my oil as a DIY thing. not because i didn't want to, but because of convenience. i always took it to my mechanic...let them take care of it, but now i have time, and the means to do it. so i'm gathering the necessary tools and information to do it. i read the post at the beginning of this thread, and the sticky.

    One thing i haven't seen is what do i need specifically to do this.

    i've got:

    3-ton floor jack
    3-ton jack stands
    m1 5w-30
    wix filter
    drain pan
    empty jugs for the old oil

    what else do i need? do i need a new drain plug? what tools will i need? i apologize if i missed anything before posting this...and hope there are some merciful souls to help guide me...tips would be great too!

    thanks!

  7. #156
    Registered User Kush's Avatar
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    oil filter wrench and whatever size wrench or socket you need for the drain plug.

    2 things you MUST do (may have already been mentioned) - when you remove the oil filter, make sure the rubber seal is not still stuck to the filter mount on the motor. If it is, just peel it off, you don't want to put a new filter on with the old seal still on there. Also, before you screw in the new filter, put a small amount of oil on its rubber seal to lube it up a bit so it doesn't tear when you screw it in. Hand tight plus a half a turn with the oil filter wrench should be tight enough.

    Secondly, you don't need a new drain plug, but you do have to make sure that the washer stays on the plug when you put it back in. If it's damaged, replace it with a new washer.

    Thats it, good luck!
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  8. #157
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    uh....anyone know what size the drain plug is?

    and i can't find a oil filter wrench that fits

  9. #158
    Registered User Kush's Avatar
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    um...try a few wrenches until you find one that fits the drainplug
    It should be a 14 or 15 mil IIRC

    Grip-type oil filter wrenches generally come in 2 sizes, big and small. You'll need the small one.
    Last edited by Kush; 05-11-2006 at 09:02 PM.
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  10. #159
    Registered User VVVV's Avatar
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    You are supposed to replace the drain plug crush washer each time you drain the oil. You can get them from any dealership or mail order subaru parts place. And the Subaru branded oil filter has been shown to be the best filter for the money, with the most filter area and the best flow passing capability (but any filter will do). Also, I clean my K&N air filter every time I change the oil - it helps a lot with fuel economy. Check all the tanks under the hood to be sure they are full to their fill lines, power steering, brake fluid, coolant, etc. Check the belts for cracks or wear. And it doesn't hurt to go around the car greasing all of the lube points, like door hinges, latches, gas filler door, etc. Check the air in the tires and fill up the washer fluid.

    I often bleed my brakes when I change the oil, since I use high temp fluid and do competition events. Since you're new to DIY, I'd hold off on this until you feel more comfortable. Brake fluid is highly corrosive - it will strip off the paint.

  11. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowder
    and i can't find a oil filter wrench that fits
    I have simply been using the small craftsman strap wrench. Ideally if you don't over tighten it you shouldn't need a wrench the next time around. Oh and if no one has mentioned it avoid over tightening the oil filter as it makes it harder to get off and you run the risk of messing up the seal.
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    205 whp on a STOCK wrx??? I find that to be a bit hard to believe. My 2006 WRX ran 188 whp with Injen CAI, HKS BOV, HKS Downpipe and HKS carbon ti exhaust... How can a STOCK WRX run 205 whp??? I'd like to see dyno sheets to back that one up...

  12. #161
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    Burning oil

    I was wondering if any one else was losing oil. i have an 04 wrx with 16k miles and when i checked the oil the other day, it was a quart and a half low!!! i immediatly called the dealership, and the guy at the service dept said if the car is driven hard on a daily basis, oil will burn out of the engine at about one quart every thousand miles. just wondering if he is full of **** or if anyone else knows of this

  13. #162
    Mace Windu devilfluff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowder
    i can't find a oil filter wrench that fits
    I have had the best luck w/ this style...

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

    Mine was a bit more expensive, but I've found this style to be the most useful, adapts to almost any filter
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  14. #163
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    hehe, i just ended up using my hands...it worked just fine...

    no leaks, full oil...only hard part was getting the car up (mines lowered about 2), and getting the drain bolt off going the wrong way..other then that...no probs!

  15. #164
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    funny for me to read this thread. i just spent 6 hours learnin about lubrication in a motor at school today... if you dont have an oil filter wrench you can use sandpaper to get a good grip.

    if you use mobil 1 extended performance, thats "good for 15,000 miles" you still need to change it sooner. any oil is good for more than 3,000 miles, oil doesnt go bad as long as it doesnt burn it gets dirty and collects carbon and other "dirt" that car ruin bearings.... once the oil pressure starts to go up from the filter restricting flow it will open and not filter any dirt out...
    07 white STi in CT

  16. #165
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    Just purchased a new 07 WRX with 13 miles on it. I'm at about 500 miles right now, and was just wondering if it is recommended to get the oil changed at 1k miles? What are the pros/cons of doing so...

    I apologize if this has been covered; however, I'm at work and don't have the luxury of reading the entire post (have skimmed a lot of it though).

    Also, I live in Chicago, so we have cold winters and reasonably warm/humid summers. What is the best oil to use in the car? I've never had a turbo charged vehicle so I want to make sure I follow all the steps to keep my car running at tip top shape.

    Thanks.

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