Torque Wrenches

[WTypeRogerX]

What are your recommendations on a torque wrench to buy?

And who makes the floating bar type as referred to below?
This same discussion just came up on a MG (british sports car for those
not literate in english sports car) list. These guys work on their
cars. Not just changing the oil and the stickers.

One key thing to come out of it was: Get the type with the floating bar,
and not the clicking lock.

It was stated that the bar type does not have the calibration problems
as the click type. If it isn't at 0, you point the bar at 0, and it is
calibrated. With the clicking type you have to send it off/ other to
get it calibrated.

[MisterX]

I use the "floating bar" type. With some applications, like lug nuts, you can't get enough torque. I expect higher torque models may be available though. Another benefit to this type of TW is the price.

BTW, I had an MG and it really demanded a lot of attention. I work with many european engineers. One of them wore a T shirt at the job site that said "Lucas Electric - The Prince of Darkness". How true.

X

[MtnWRX]

I bought a Sears 1/2" click type for about $60 a couple of months ago. I knew I was going to be doing exhaust mods and wasn't sure I was going to be able to get a clear view of the scale on floating bar type while under the car. If you can't get a straight on view with the floating bar type, they won't be accurate. As for lug nuts, I love the click type. Just set it and start cranking (from a comfortable position (yes, I'm old so I can't bend around like you young guys)).
It boils down to personal preference and cost. IMHO

Leo

[GV27]

Yeah I use two. A big-ass 1/2" clicker that goes to like 170 ft-lb and a little 3/8" bar type for the smaller stuff.

If you're looking for bang-for-the-buck, Sears has a little bar type like mine for like $35 or something that goes up to around 70ft-lbs. Like Mr.X says, that's not enough for some stuff but is perfect for the majority of bolts on the car that are in the 5-35 range.

[Mazdryk]

i work on aircraft you can have a huge + to tourque just not a huge - to tourque. Tourque wrenches are almost usless i will never buy one.

[GV27]

Huh?

[MustGoFast]

I'm not sure but I think mazdryk is saying you can way over tourqe things but not way under torque things... but I'm not completly sure

[Big Sky WRX]

I've got the Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" digitorq wrenches- just dial in the digits you need. A little spendy, but they're a lifetime investment. I end using them on almost every project.

Big Sky

[GV27]

[toolman]digital torque wrench arg, arg, arg[/toolman]

[Big Sky WRX]

Originally posted by GV27
[toolman]digital torque wrench arg, arg, arg[/toolman]

[cmaj7]

NORBAR.

The SL series 1, 2 and 3.

Best investment in a tool you can make!

[tuca33]

I just bought a Craftsman Mikrotork Torque 3/8",25 to 250 Inch/Lbs.
Is this a good one?
How do i translate Inch/Lbs from Foot/Lbs?
Thanks
Tuca

[beastcivic]

To change ft/lbs to in/lbs multiply by 12. To do the reverse, divide by 12.

[tuca33]

WOW,,that means if my tool can go up to 250Inch/Lbs,,i have a max torque of 20 Foot/Lbs???
Thats impossible.
Anyone?
Thanks
Tuca

[beastcivic]

It is possible. Look at this website: useful information. Scroll down to the "Use Standard Torque Settings When Specific Values Are Not Specified" section. And read what they say the in/lb = ft/lb for the specific bolts. They show you that if you divide the in/lb units by 12, you get the resulting ft/lb amounts.

I'm still trying to find a better website to prove what I told you in my previous post is true, but I'm having little luck finding anything showing in/lbs.