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Burned clutch on my 2002 used. (owned for less than 2k miles)

5K views 66 replies 13 participants last post by  fenderwrx 
#1 ·
Car: 2002 WRX, 74,000 miles.
According to service report no clutch/transmission work done ever.

So I got my 2002 WRX something like 4 weeks ago. So far I've driven it a little over 1500 miles. Over the last week or so I noticed a pulsating or almost rattling when I shift the car out of gear to slow down and stop. (I was advised by a couple mechanics I've talked to that just shifting into N and braking is safer than downshifting down when you're learning).

I called the dealer I bought the vehicle from (It's got a 3000 mile 60day warranty) and all they did was check the breaks which they decided to resurface. Got the car back, the problem's not gone. So I bring it into a Monro shop closer to my house and they take it for a spin. As soon as he gets back the machanic tells me my clutch is shot, that in first gear it catches for a bit then the tach just goes AWOL. They also say my breaks are shot.

Now, my question is, is it at all reasonable to think a clutch could get nuked in less than 2000 miles? I mean, I drive fast but I'm not exceptionally hard on my vehicle. I haven't raced, dropped the clutch, or any nonsense like that. I've only miss-shifted a couple times but that was earlier on in my learning. Would most reputable dealer warranties cover a shot clutch so soon? I've talked to some people I know that drive standard, and they tell me it's nearly impossible to destroy a perfectly good clutch so soon.

This car was only on the lot a total of like 4 days, 2 being a weekend. I got it the day after it got traded in. I'm wondering if the dealer just didn't take the time to maintenance it themselves.

Ideas/suggestions/opinions w/e would be great. I'm kinda stressing over this at the moment... If I have to pay for it it's going to severely put back my timetable on going Stage 2! :baaa:
 
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#2 ·
It's definatly possible. 02 are knoon for having transmission issuses. The clutch on a WRX is very sticky and easy to burn up.

I have launched my a couple of times leting the clutch slowly slip out at 4k+:thumbdown :whoa: :thumbdown

I think I hurt it.

My car kind of lurches and jerking into motion in the 1st and 2nd gears.

All in all I would just drive it tell it goes. If, of course, that is what is wrong with your car. By what you have discribed the tranny could be the cause of your problem as well.

Is the clutch not grabing or are you hving troubles ****ing in and out of gears?
 
#5 ·
Is the clutch not grabing or are you hving troubles ****ing in and out of gears?
Sometimes I have trouble shifting into first or reverse from a dead stop. This has been going on since I got the car. People told me it was a regular thing, and to just re-engage the clutch. The mechanic today told me it wasn't regular at all, and there was probably an issue from day one.

I doubt any car lot is going to replace a clutch on a used car unless they absolutely have to (and maybe not even then). You should definitely see what they have to say about their warranty/guarantee. Maybe you can get them to fork over the cost of installing a new clutch and you can take it to a reputable mechanic. Of course, you could try and install it yourself...after that bolting on a TBE would seem easy!

Do you have any suspicion that the car may have been (or is) modified already?
I didn't get the vehicle from a car lot. I actually got it from an actual Subaru dealership. It's got that dealership's "Subaru approved" (or w/e) 60day used warranty. It's not like Bob's used scrap lot.

To my knowledge the car is 100% stock. That's what the dealer fed me, "older guy owned it, babied it, yadda yadda." I'm getting the suspician from my forum trolling and reading that he probably tuned the hell out of it then parts out the machine. I honestly don't know, but it seems the older crowd is just as guilty of scoob tuning as us childens.

Didn't the dealer work on your brakes like you said?

Yes, you can wear a clutch in an evening if you are dedicated.
As far as having worked on them, the dealer resurfaced my front breaks. They didn't replace anything, just evened it out. Said that should fix my vibration issue.

------------------------------

I guess ultimately my question is, "Is this my fault?" I honestly don't know. I'm new to driving standard, and I've been taking it pretty easy. It's not so much the cost now that's on my mind (though, it would suck something fierce. But I think the dealer will cover it). It's the idea that even after getting this taken care of one way or the other, I'll do it again (if it's in fact my fault).
 
#3 ·
Well, that kinda sucks. I doubt the 1.5K miles you've driven it have much to do with the clutch going out, but I'm guessing that the other 74K miles might.

There's really no telling how the car was treated before it came to be yours. Overall, I don't think 74K miles is a completely unreasonable lifespan for a clutch. I know there are plenty Subaru clutches that have lasted longer, but again it's hard to say what sort of action YOUR clutch has seen.

I doubt any car lot is going to replace a clutch on a used car unless they absolutely have to (and maybe not even then). You should definitely see what they have to say about their warranty/guarantee. Maybe you can get them to fork over the cost of installing a new clutch and you can take it to a reputable mechanic. Of course, you could try and install it yourself...after that bolting on a TBE would seem easy!

Do you have any suspicion that the car may have been (or is) modified already?
 
#4 ·
Over the last week or so I noticed a pulsating or almost rattling when I shift the car out of gear to slow down and stop.
Throw out bearing.

(I was advised by a couple mechanics I've talked to that just shifting into N and braking is safer than downshifting down when you're learning).As soon as he gets back the machanic tells me my clutch is shot, that in first gear it catches for a bit then the tach just goes AWOL. They also say my breaks are shot... Now, my question is, is it at all reasonable to think a clutch could get nuked in less than 2000 miles?
In addition to the throw out bearing, the clutch is slippling.

Didn't the dealer work on your brakes like you said?

Yes, you can wear a clutch in an evening if you are dedicated.
 
#6 ·
they always say an older guy owned it and babied it. you might have gotten a car that's been stocked back up :(

but anyways, its under the 3000 mile warranty, so i would tell them to fix it or you want your money back. New york lemon laws state if a car is rendered unsafe or inoperable for two or more reasons in a small amount of time, it's a lemon. you can get all your money back, or they have to fix it no cost.
 
#9 ·
I've heard the dealership I went to has gone downhill over the years, but they used to be top notch. My mother tells me I'm being too nice in saying this, but I think they just didn't get to checking everything out. They turned the car around real fast, which I guess is their own fault.

They shoulda made me wait until Wednesday before picking up the car, and checked it from head to friggan toe. Like I said, I'm mainly worried that I'm doing something stupid wrong, and I nuked it myself. I find that unlikely, but right now I'm kinda freaking out, heh. :eek:
 
#21 ·
Couldn't I get parts through SPT that they'd support/not be that concerned with? I was considering the idea of upgrading that stuff when it burned out anyway, and now would be a prime time to do just that.

Since I was having issues with the clutch from the start it seems, would a performance clutch really be a good idea? I want to, but I'm wondering if I'll see a real benifit, or if the change is a good idea in general either way.
 
#22 ·
exedy's stage 1 clutch is nice grips better than stock but is not a monster to drive daily.. I feal your pain within week of getting my car the clutch died.. (genius me bought the car as is no warranty) if you have the dealer put it make absolutely sure they either rplace or resurface the flywheel.. and replace the throwout bearing... because 2 days after I picked my car up from the clutch job the tranny went out... which I am half sure is because the throw out bearing ws bad... and they said when they put the new tranny in that " ohh the throwout bearing needed to be replaced" man i nearly ripped off the service guys head when he said that... but yeah my exedy stage 1 was like 600 and 300for labor... because I threw a royal fit.

here is a decent place to shop for clutches or check the vendor area they have even better deals usually :)
http://www.andysautosport.com/subaru/2002_9999_impreza/transmission/clutch_kits/
 
#23 ·
do NOT resurface the flywheel...replace it..no questions asked ..trust me ive been a subie tech for 8 years..save yourself the trouble time and money and replace it when you do the clutch..along with the pilot bearing,and throw out bearing
 
#26 ·
On the SPT site under the descriptions for all their performance clutches it goes into a schpeal about "as-is" and voiding warranty. They also mention off-road use only. If I throw in a performance clutch are federal agents going to jump out of helicopters and arrest me?

Seriously though, are the SPT clutches not advisable for regular driving?
 
#27 ·
that just covers subaru's butt meaning they werent tested on the highway so if you blow up your car going 140 on a road, it isnt their fault (which it wouldnt be anyways, and this clutch is made more for that, but its just a coverage issue.)
 
#28 ·
Okay, so in all they should be cool with installing it then? I just hate the song and dance they give you. When I went to the dealership for an oil change and asked for synthetic the guy looked at me like I was crazy.

"why do you want synthetic?"
"I've heard it's better for the engine."
"Not really, it only helps with extreme temperature changes."
"Oh?"
"Yeah, I mean, I guess it might help if you were like, racing or something. You're not racing are you?"
"No, not yet, I wanna get more comfortable with the transmission first." :rotfl:

I figure there's no need to worry about warranty issues anyway. In 1500 miles I'm off warranty and they wont cover a thing as it is.

It's just kinda funny having a Borla CBE sitting on my kitchen floor for almost a week, and still my first mod might be a performance clutch.
 
#30 ·
I have heard alot of good thing said about the oem clutch. For a 2002 I would be conserned about the tranny as well and if you plan on puting more power to the ground then your tranny might snap with an upgraded clutch.
I feel your pain.
My tranny aint up to the stage 2 I don't think.
Your still in a good place to take that car a shove it right back up the dealers ass. Don't let him give you any ish because your a kid. The combined knowlage of this forum out weighs whatever knowlage that dealer has about the car. He is going to tell you what ever it is he thinks you need to hear to save his own ass. DO NOT TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER
 
#31 ·
<---shortly going to stage to
<---shortly going to put in STI RA Gears w/a performance clutch :D

total cost for reliable stage 2:

DP~400
SPT Intake w/heat shield - 200
SPT Exhaust: 420
AP2.0: 695
STI RA Gears 1500
Performance Clutch, cover & lightened flywheel: 1000

Total cost for build:

4215

Will tranny blow up if VF22 is installed?

NOPE! YAY! :p
 
#37 · (Edited)
The shop just called me, they told me there was a "list" and wouldn't get into it over the phone.. I'm gunna call them back after my first break and push the issue.

Now I'm concerned.

Edit: I called them back, they told me the front rotors and clutch need to be replaced. They said it "should" all be covered under warranty.
 
#40 ·
Bumpdate
Just got home after picking the car up from the shop (Monro in Albany). The printup they gave me of "Work to be done" is as follows;

Brakes
$134.67(cost) + $25.50(labor) = $160.17 RF Brake Rotor
$134.67(cost) + $25.50(labor) = $160.17 LF Brake Rotor
Service
Clutch is slipping--Requires clutch assembly and flywheel replacement.
There's no estimate for the clutch work because the shop doesn't do clutches this time of year, I guess. :screwy:

They suggest I get a second opinion from AAMCO in Albany, I guess they do a lot of transmission work. Given their writeup with the whole thing needing replacement (I mentioned the throw out bearing and the mechanic said it was included in the term "Clutch assembly") and including the flywheel if the dealer follows it and finds the same issues (I'm getting a second opinion to throw in their face in case they decide not to) I should be set pretty well.

Since the mechanic says the whole thing needs to get done (including the flywheel) I may be able to upgrade the whole setup a little cheaper still (here's to hoping).

Just thought I'd update the situation. I know it's kept me on the edge of my seat all day.
 
#41 ·
Hey, I hate to beat a dead horse but I've got another question on the matter, and figured I'll try to put it here before throwing it in a new thread.

I took my car to AAMCO (a transmission shop) to get looked at today. The mechanic there said that the apparent over-rev of the tach was due to my car being a turbo, not the clutch slipping. He said the clutch was on the way out, but not slipping as of now.

Is it regular for a WRX or turbo in general to tach way up before accelerating strongly? Is it possible that a mechanic that was unaware of the car being a turbo (which I find hard to beleive) could mistake the turbo itself for a slipping clutch?

I'm still pretty new to MT, though my driving has gotten very smooth. I'm just trying to find out where I stand before yelling at my dealer to tear apart the transmission and being charged $600.00 in labor to find out nothing was "wrong" enough to justify it.

-Thanks
 
#42 ·
yeah, it revs way up but you shouldnt gas it hard in 1st anyway -t he 02 has a fairly weak tranny. but yeah, the clutch is gonna be starting to slip, and the brakes have prolly not been replaced in 40000 miles.

i would have them do everything, if you were in first and the clutch was past the catch point and revving up, then somethings wrong. it sounds like the clutch is def. on its way out.
 
#50 ·
Final verdict:

Dealer claims the front rotors are fine, resurfaces back rotors. Both sets have been resurfaced now. If the sound comes back they're fixing something!

Clutch is shot. Replacement clutch assembly ordered (including all bearings involved [throw out, pilot, ones I don't know]) and after my bringing it up (it wasn't their original plan) replacement flywheel as well. Total cost to me $0.00. All covered under warranty.

I decided to stick with OEM clutch and flywheel, to get a feel for how the stock car runs so when I do upgrade I know the changes. That and the performance flywheel is +$300.00 for the SPT. XD
 
#51 ·
Hey I'm glad they're doing the work for free for you. Stealerships are such pains to deal with... I'd stay away from any franchise shop (aamco, meineke, etc..) if I were you. I'll never take my car anywhere but a good performance shop. I don't even trust the head mechanic at the Subaru dealership by me. When you hear them say things like turbo back exhausts are bad for the car you know not to trust them... He fixed my transmission but basically yelled at me for having "cheap aftermarket stuff" on my car...

Find a performance shop that knows Subies very well. Dealing with turbo charged performance cars (which your WRX is, even if it's stock) is a whole other beast than just fixing a non-turbo car. the extra $$ in labor you might spend at a good performance shop is well worth their knowledge and experience with Subies.

Read these boards every day too! Seriously!! The more you know about your car the safer you'll be in dealing with mechanics. When you can diagnose your own problems based on the TONS AND TONS of info you'll find here it'll protect you when you need work done.

Most importantly, enjoy your ride! Bugeye pride! haha! :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
#52 ·
FWIW - look at my modlist - I had all that on the stock clutch and didn't replace it until a couple thousand miles ago simply because the clutch was starting to slip (turns out the reason I couldn't launch, was because the clutch couldn't handle it).

The stock clutch is plenty capable on the 2002, just depends how you drive it. I've since upgraded to an Exedy Organic Stage 1, and it's very nice.

Good luck with your bugeye.
 
#54 ·
My parts are in, and now they tell me it'll be a week until they can get them installed. So they expect me to sit here, with a shot clutch, a car I just bought, that I can barely drive until the 13th...

Yeah, about that, I called the guy who sold me the vehicle, made a big stink, and am now rolling around in a chinsy loaner. But my car's at the shop, and they said it may be done by Tuesday. Here's to hoping.

Now I'm just worried because the a/c in the 99 legacy they gave me is much better than it was is my WRX. I'm starting to think I shoulda just sucked it up, paid more, and bought new more locally.
 
#55 ·
uuǝıuoʇuɐɯ;1982667 said:
very true even a stage one in the future helps alot... and I like my exedy stg 1 too ...

on a side note Micah... where did you find yours for 420 mine was liek 500 when i bought it :(
I got mine over at Precision Tuning in Brick, NJ. It's my local subie shop, most of the work on my car has been done there, the rest by my mechanic and friend Ryan. The only tool I touch is my wallet.

5p3ɟuǝɹɐ1;1986250 said:
Now I'm just worried because the a/c in the 99 legacy they gave me is much better than it was is my WRX. I'm starting to think I shoulda just sucked it up, paid more, and bought new more locally.
Charge the AC in your car.
 
#56 ·
I got mine over at Precision Tuning in Brick, NJ. It's my local subie shop, most of the work on my car has been done there, the rest by my mechanic and friend Ryan. The only tool I touch is my wallet.
Brick's far. Is the shop good enough to warrant the over an hour drive there?
 
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