Camshaft drive belt replacement
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This is a discussion on Camshaft drive belt replacement within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Has anyone here done this themselves? It seems to need two special tools, a crankshaft pulley wrench and socket. Is ...

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    Registered User section9's Avatar
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    Camshaft drive belt replacement

    Has anyone here done this themselves? It seems to need two special tools, a crankshaft pulley wrench and socket. Is there a way to do it without these special tools? Or am I better off taking it to a shop who has the tools?

    Thanks.
    Batmobile: 2002 WRX wagon RIP

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    Registered User jaqattack02's Avatar
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    Are you sure you don't mean the timing belt?
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    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by section9 View Post
    Has anyone here done this themselves? It seems to need two special tools, a crankshaft pulley wrench and socket. Is there a way to do it without these special tools? Or am I better off taking it to a shop who has the tools?

    Thanks.
    If I were you, I'd take it to a trusted shop. Getting the tension correct on those belts is very important. Whenever I need really specialized tools that I'll probably only use once, I either find a way to do the job without them, or take it someplace. The timing belts in Subies aren't too bad too change compared to some other cars, but unless you really know what you're doing, you can create a mess.

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    Registered User section9's Avatar
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    I'm a motorcycle mechanic, so I'm sure I can do the job just fine. It's just a matter of having the right tools for the job. Thanks for the reply.
    Batmobile: 2002 WRX wagon RIP

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    Just did this myself (2002 WRX wagon).
    To remove the crankshaft pully, you need a 22mm socket and a long wrench + a belt wrench. Once you get everything at TDC, place the car in 5th gear with the brake on.
    I was able to get it loose without using the belt wrench, but have one standing by unless you need to hold the pully.
    Check out here for the procedure and info on the timing marks:
    http://www.ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/...RAL%20INFO.PDF

    when replacing, replace the idler first then the belt tensioner.
    The belt tensioner is automatic, there is no manual adjustment on this but you must be absolutley sure that all pullys are at TDC - can't be a single tooth off. The subaru OEM belt has marks that line up with each timing mark on the pullys which helps.

    subaruspeak=camshaft belt
    mechanicspeak=timing belt.
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    Registered User section9's Avatar
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    Thanks Chesta! That's the info I needed. I'll order a belt and get on it next weekend.
    Batmobile: 2002 WRX wagon RIP

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    I forgot to mention one thing, you need a press to compress the tensioner and a 3mm allen wrench to hold it:

    Install the automatic belt tension adjuster assembly and belt
    idler
    CAUTION:
    Always use a vertical type pressing tool to
    move the adjuster rod down.
    Do not use a lateral type vise.
    Push the adjuster rod vertically.
    Be sure to slowly move the adjuster rod down
    applying a pressure of 294 N (30 kgf, 66 lb).
    Press-in the push adjuster rod gradually taking
    more than three minutes.
    Do not allow press pressure to exceed 9,807
    N (1,000 kgf, 2,205 lb).
    Press the adjuster rod as far as the end surface
    of the cylinder. Do not press the adjuster
    rod into the cylinder. Doing so may damage the
    cylinder.
    Do not release the press pressure until stopper
    pin is completely inserted.
    (1) Attach the automatic belt tension adjuster
    assembly to the vertical pressing tool.
    (2) Slowly move the adjuster rod down with a
    pressure of 294 N (30 kgf, 66 lb) until the adjuster
    rod is aligned with the stopper pin hole in the
    cylinder.
    (3) With a 2 mm (0.08 in) dia. stopper pin or a 2
    mm (0.08 in) (nominal) dia. hex bar wrench inserted
    into the stopper pin hole in the cylinder,
    secure the adjuster rod.
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    Registered User section9's Avatar
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    Thanks. That makes it a bit more complicated. Is there a way to lock the adjuster's position prior to removing it? That's how I've done it on motorcycles. Also, did you replace the water pump and idler?
    Batmobile: 2002 WRX wagon RIP

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    Quote Originally Posted by section9 View Post
    Thanks. That makes it a bit more complicated. Is there a way to lock the adjuster's position prior to removing it? That's how I've done it on motorcycles. Also, did you replace the water pump and idler?
    You may be able to compress it, but it takes a lot of force to move the plunger and it moves VERY slowly. Looks like some folks opt to replace the tensioner and idler pully when replacing the belt.

    I took mine to a local dealership that had a press and they were able to compress it according to spec.

    Found a better doc:
    http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/down...IMING_BELT.pdf
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    t belt on your car is pretty tricky...ill be in anchorage alaska july 24 if you wanna wait 100 bucks labor and your belts done

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    Batmobile: 2002 WRX wagon RIP

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