Rotor replacement?
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This is a discussion on Rotor replacement? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; My rotors are warped to ****, so instead of resurfacing I'm just going to replace them. My previous car had ...

  1. #1
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    Rotor replacement?

    My rotors are warped to ****, so instead of resurfacing I'm just going to replace them. My previous car had the rotors pressed onto the wheel bearing, and I couldn't replace them myself (as I don't have any sort of a press/puller that has tons of pressure). I'm hoping the WRX rotors aren't the same way. Does anyone have a tutorial for this or any input from experience?
    Doing the fronts, btw (should be obvious).

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    Should be able to get them off by just tapping them with a mallet or for shure if you get two bolts you can thread into the holes with threads in the rotors made to push the rotors off, if stuck.
    '02 WRX 4EAT, 311,000KMs/194,500Miles, Sold. Best car I ever had. '09 STi stage 1, hope this one will be good too...

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    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrxdrvr View Post
    Should be able to get them off by just tapping them with a mallet or for shure if you get two bolts you can thread into the holes with threads in the rotors made to push the rotors off, if stuck.
    I got mine off using the bolts into the holes method. It was a piece of cake. It drove them right off. That way, I wasn't beating the rotor with a hammer and creating a cloud of brake dust.

    When you take the wheel off, you'll see the two threaded holes in the rotor that don't have any bolts in them. I don't remember the exact thread size, but I think it was 8mm X 1.25. It's definitely 8mm, so you might want to get 2 8mm X 1.25 and 2 8mm X 1.5 bolts. It's one or the other.

    When driving the bolts in, don't drive one in fully and get the rotor crooked and then start the other. Try to drive them in as even as you can. I would turn 1, then turn the other, then back to the first, etc. Otherwise, it gets wedged on and then it's tougher to get off.

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    Cool, I see what you're saying.
    Any recommendations on rotors? And probably pads for that matter, even though my current ones have a ton of life on them as of a month ago or so.
    I had some brembo smooth surface/vented and some hawk pads on my last car, and they performed wonderfully. No matter how hard I drove them I couldn't get them to fade even a little bit. But I'm sure there's a different standard with brakes on Subies.

  6. #5
    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    I'm using the stock rotors with Ferodo 2500 pads. It's a nice setup. The pads are a little noisy, but that's one of the trade-offs of using higher performance pads. A lot of people really like Hawk pads too. I personally have Hawks on my daily driven Civic, and I love them, but I don't do any competition driving with them.

    As for rotors, slotted or drilled are pretty much pointless. The brembo smooth surface/vented will do just fine, as will oe. Unless you're planning on going to large brakes altogether, I would stick with oe or brembo.

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    That's pretty much my opinion too. I've had friends with slotted and/or drilled rotors and I've never had a problem being able to keep up/keep away/slow down with them with just vented rotors with a smooth surface and some nice pads. In fact, more often than not, people I know with cross drilled rotors usually end up getting cracks between the holes. Go figure.
    I was looking at the Cobb rotors + pads and it doesn't seem like a bad deal. Doesn't seem like the OE stuff + some better pads are going to be a whole lot cheaper, and cyro/heat treating is always good.

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    Found some front and rear brembo blanks. Might as well do all four.
    I'd imagine the rears are as easy/same procedure as the front?

  9. #8
    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    At least on the STi, the rears are the exact same setup as the fronts. Just remember to leave the parking brake off. It grabs on the inside of the rotor like a drum brake, so you won't be able to get the rotor off if the parking brake is set.

    I don't know how often you've worked on brakes, so you probably already know this: Don't let the calipers hang by the brake hose. Either tie them to something in the chassis to leave slack in the hose, or set them down on something that's high enough that the hose isn't stretched.

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    Got it. I've worked on brakes a few times, but just wanted to find out how the setup with the Subie rotors were.
    A few weeks ago I pulled the caliper off the passenger front to figure out if the rotors were warped as a result of no pad or something, but the pads look great. There's also a slight scraping noise that happens for a second on every wheel rotation that I can't figure out and it kind of drives me nuts sometimes, if I have the windows down anyway. Hopefully swapping out rotors and pads completely will get rid of that whole ordeal.

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