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This is a discussion on Dont let my engine blow within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Ok so I am all ways finding imperfections on my used 02 WRX and last night I found somthing that ...

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    Dont let my engine blow

    Ok so I am all ways finding imperfections on my used 02 WRX and last night I found somthing that frightened me more than any of the body damage. I was trying to drill and tap my exhaust manifold when I found the plastic in the front driver's side of the engine was cracked. It was split preety good. I have an idea of what it is but am unsure. It looks like the housing for the timing belt is broken. The plastic is housing some belts that are in the front off the engine forward of the valves. I dont even know If these engines have timing belts or what not but Im conserened. Does any one have any idea what part this is so I can get a new one on the way. Is this going to be somthing I can replace my self or will I have to do some timing crap that requires my car siting at subaru for weeks? Also The exhaust valves in the engine where white is this normal or is my motor going to blow up.

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    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    Just drain all of the oil out and drive it around for a while. Then it'll break, and you can buy a new engine with all kinds of fun performance goodies.

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERIKBROCKHOFF View Post
    Ok so I am all ways finding imperfections on my used 02 WRX and last night I found somthing that frightened me more than any of the body damage. I was trying to drill and tap my exhaust manifold when I found the plastic in the front driver's side of the engine was cracked. It was split preety good. I have an idea of what it is but am unsure. It looks like the housing for the timing belt is broken. The plastic is housing some belts that are in the front off the engine forward of the valves. I dont even know If these engines have timing belts or what not but Im conserened. Does any one have any idea what part this is so I can get a new one on the way. Is this going to be somthing I can replace my self or will I have to do some timing crap that requires my car siting at subaru for weeks? Also The exhaust valves in the engine where white is this normal or is my motor going to blow up.
    Sounds like timing belt covers. There are two sets the forward ones (front of engine) and the rear ones (behind belt closest to firewall). While the front covers are easy to replace, the back covers are indeed more tricky and require removal of the radiator, timing belt and cam pulley's to fix. Which while you are there you replace the timing belt and water pump.

    If your motor has not been apart how would you know your exhaust valves were white? Did you actually take the manifold off?

    If you are worried about your engine start with a compression check and go from there.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

    06 WRX, HAWKEYE # 001 <T-boned and sold>

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    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post

    If your motor has not been apart how would you know your exhaust valves were white? Did you actually take the manifold off?
    Removing the manifold is the best way to drill it for a fitting. Drilling it on the vehicle leaves lots of metal fragments that hit the O2 sensors and the turbine when started.


    Was your vehicle hit in the front before?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex View Post
    Was your vehicle hit in the front before?
    That's what I would like to know. Carfax showed nothing when I purchased the vehical. I get looking around the car a while and start finding alot of semi repaired body damage and a blue door painted to match. The whole front bumper is hanging on by a thread and the skid plate is gone. Where the midle bolt for the skid ataches there is a big dent like somone hit a rock and then had to dispose of the hanging parts None of this stuff was visible when I bought the car but when I got under it there was a different story I think Ill have to take some pictures of what Im talking about to determine if its the front or rear cover. When I'm under the car looking up the whole plastic peice covering the timing belt comes away from the cars engine I can't see how It was damaged it couldn't just hit anything. Its gaurded by the radiator(inless that was crushed at some point). I'm not to worried about the engine it runs great, but does the replacement of the rear cover and timing belts require pro. help or can it be done out side of the shop? Thanks for the help.

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    still need help bump

    I have figured out that the back of the case is indeed broken. It can lift up from the back of the pulley assembley. Another thing I have noted is the air conditioner is not opperational. Well it is but it makes this god awfull squeeling noize when turned on. I want to get parts on order today money is of no issue but time down on the car is. One I need to know how to take the front cover off to see what other things could be damaged. Two I need to know what is involed in replacing the parts like the timing belt and water pump as somone has sugested. There is part of the service manual avalible online for the timing belts but it dosn't look like a walk through the park. There are sepcific tourque values for parts that require some sort of latteral compresion in order to tighten everything right. I'll see if I can find the link and post back with what I have found and then somone tell me If this is even needed. Im glad I'm moding my car or this problem would have gone unoted.

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERIKBROCKHOFF View Post
    I have figured out that the back of the case is indeed broken. It can lift up from the back of the pulley assembley. Another thing I have noted is the air conditioner is not opperational. Well it is but it makes this god awfull squeeling noize when turned on. I want to get parts on order today money is of no issue but time down on the car is. One I need to know how to take the front cover off to see what other things could be damaged. Two I need to know what is involved in replacing the parts like the timing belt and water pump as someone has suggested. There is part of the service manual avalible online for the timing belts but it doesn't look like a walk through the park. There are specific torque values for parts that require some sort of lateral compression in order to tighten everything right. I'll see if I can find the link and post back with what I have found and then somone tell me If this is even needed. Im glad I'm moding my car or this problem would have gone unoted.
    We downloaded a manual off line when we replaced the timing covers, belts, water pump on our bugeye project. I didn't deem it to be hard, but I am a pretty advanced mechanic compared to most people, with an extensive tool inventory. Our black plastic cover was broken when the car was in an accident and the battery got pushed into the timing covers.

    When we replaced ours, we took out the grille, radiator, unbolted the condenser and shifted it out of the way. The front timing covers are bolted onto the front. Remove the bolts and it comes off leaving you the belt and water pump exposed.

    To get to the back cover is trickier. You must first take off the timing belt. You will need to buy a cam wrench to hold the pulleys on the cams in order to gain access to the back cover. Then unbolt the back cover, replace the broken one, and reinstall as per manual.

    For the A/C I dunno if the clutch on your compressor has gone bad, or its just a slipping belt.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

    06 WRX, HAWKEYE # 001 <T-boned and sold>

    COILOVER TABLE
    TURBO TABLE

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    Thanks for the input. The whole opperation is starting to take shape. I have a question do you think I can get away from doing this for say another 2000 miles wile I wait for replacement parts or is there some real danger having the case broken like that. When you pulled the broken case off that wrecked car was there damage done to anything else besides the case like pulleys or any thing else in that same area. If I do decide to DIY then I want to take the cover off and look around to check for other broken parts can this be done w/out removal of the radiator.

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERIKBROCKHOFF View Post
    Thanks for the input. The whole opperation is starting to take shape. I have a question do you think I can get away from doing this for say another 2000 miles wile I wait for replacement parts or is there some real danger having the case broken like that. When you pulled the broken case off that wrecked car was there damage done to anything else besides the case like pulleys or any thing else in that same area. If I do decide to DIY then I want to take the cover off and look around to check for other broken parts can this be done w/out removal of the radiator.
    Take some pics and post them of the damage.


    It'd be real tough without taking out the radiator, there is not much room to move around in there.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

    06 WRX, HAWKEYE # 001 <T-boned and sold>

    COILOVER TABLE
    TURBO TABLE

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    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Take some pics and post them of the damage.


    It'd be real tough without taking out the radiator, there is not much room to move around in there.
    +1 i changed all the belts on my legacy and the radiator hose is on the side of that one, not in the middle...

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    I have been to subaruparts.com and was trying to get an idea of the things I might need to repair the problem as well as do the requried matnaince on the car. just to make sure when it says Fits: 205 that means a 2.0L turbo right as oposed to Fits: 251 which would be the 2.5 rs
    right?
    -first the broken parts like the front and rear belt covers.
    -new timing belt (feel free to chime in on wheither or not $114.26 is a good deal for oem vrs after market.)
    -Then im lost if I need a Adjuster Assembly Belt Tensioner or a Braket Compleat Tensioner (If even needed at all I thought you could save the hastle of messing with the original trying to tourqe it to the right specs.
    -Oil seals
    any other recomended parts like oil pump or things I have no knowlege of.

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    I found some good stuff and am puting it here for future referance this is a great picture of what Im looking at http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf also I found a brief writeup on nasioc about the presedure
    I just did my rex last week at the recommended 100,000km (60,000mi) service interval. Belt was ridiculously expensive from dealer C$260 with a discount from $309 retail... next time I'll order it online. I just didn't trust the aftermarket belts on an interference engine, some of which I could get for ~ C$130.

    My recommendation? Do it yourself if you have reasonable mechanical skill. Here's my coles notes version:
    - drain the coolant and take the rad out... gives you a lot more room to work.
    - remove accessory belt cover and belts
    - put car in gear with p-brake on and remove crank pulley bolt and pulley - not sure correct size (maybe 22mm which I didn't have) but I found 7/8" socket works perfect
    - remove about 16 10mm bolts securing the L/R and center timing belt covers
    - reinsert crank bolt temporarily to turn motor clockwise until all timing marks are properly aligned.
    - remove the lower passenger side timing belt idler and 4 belt guides.
    - remove the old timing belt. Cyl 2 & 4 cams will move about 90deg as soon as you remove the old belt... don't fret.
    - remove the timing belt tensioner and compress it SLOWLY with a vertical press if you have one. I lieu of this, clamp the body in a vice using wood to protect it, and compress the plunger SLOWLY, IN A VERTICAL POSITION with a large (>4") C-clamp. Secure the plunger with a small metal rod or allen key.
    - reattach the tensioner and the lower idler (use loctite).
    - start the belt with main timing mark lined up with the crank and the belt direction marker pointing to your right.
    - Holding gentle tension on the belt, work clockwise to position each cam pulley with it's timing mark lined up with the appropriate mark on the belt.
    - Once you're sure the belt is positioned properly, release the belt tensioner by pulling the retaining rod out.
    - Double check all timing marks are lined up.
    - Re-install the belt guides with 1mm clearance.
    - Re-install the belt covers, crank pulley (don't use loctite), accessory belts, radiator and re-fill with coolant being sure to work air out of the system.

    The only part I was unsure about when starting this job was compressing the tensioner because the shop manual was so anal about how to do it properly. I found the vise and c-clamp worked well. Working by myself, the whole job took me about 5 hours, mostly because it was the first time on a suby and I didn't want to screw up... a helper may speed things up. I found the belt guides to be fiddly and time consuming to re-install with the correct clearance, because working with a feeler gauge on the bottom pulleys where I couldn't see was somewhat difficult.

    -Steve. (PS - standard disclaimers apply: this is about my experience with changing a 2L DOHC timing belt, but your experience may differ. Reasonable mechanical skill required for this job. Always work from a service manual.)

    This is were the question of the tensioner arose.

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