Major issue. some Insight please
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This is a discussion on Major issue. some Insight please within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Ok Today I reflashed my car. I recently put a Catback on the car. I was already running a Helix ...

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    Unhappy Major issue. some Insight please

    Ok Today I reflashed my car. I recently put a Catback on the car. I was already running a Helix catted down and STI up. Switched from the 91 Cal map to the regular 91 map. I was taking it for a spin to do the kc value cheat. You know put it in third and at about 15 mph and punch it to the floor. Okay on my way back I was getting on the freeway Wasn't paying attention and bunced of the rev. limiter. When I got back home my car Was making a knocking sound not to loud though. I thought it was my exhaust rattling against some thing. I pushed it further over on the hangers. Took it for a test. 1/2 a mile up the road the noise got louder and it was not my exhaust. Its a horrible knocking noise. Car sounds like a F'ing truck . Any I idea what it could be. The car will start. But when you move it and let off the gas it im. dies out. It will start up again but rev it and it dies when it comes back down. Anybody have a clue it what it is?

    Sorry so long but I am trying to be descriptive, again the noise is a loud knocking sound. also I am not throwing any codes.
    Last edited by IECaliwrx; 04-22-2007 at 05:22 PM.

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    Knocking is not good at all.

    So you went from a stage 2 map to what map? You should have been running stage 2 with the downpipe...adding a catback shouldnt have changed anything per cobb's map notes.

    Are you even running an AP or are you running some other EM?
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    Quote Originally Posted by 302@12psi View Post
    Knocking is not good at all.

    So you went from a stage 2 map to what map? You should have been running stage 2 with the downpipe...adding a catback shouldnt have changed anything per cobb's map notes.

    Are you even running an AP or are you running some other EM?
    I was already running a stg. 2 map. I was just running cal 91. stg 2. I was switching to the reguler 91 stg. 2 map. Yes I am running a Cobb AP.

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    Registered User Robert46123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    I was already running a stg. 2 map. I was just running cal 91. stg 2. I was switching to the reguler 91 stg. 2 map. Yes I am running a Cobb AP.
    Cobb created the California map for a reason. It's because the 91 octane you have in California is crap compared to the rest of the US. When you chagned to the normal 91 octane map and did the cheat for the timing you could have some serious detonation. If you're lucky that's all it is. Change back to the proper map and let your car decide how the timing should be set instead of trying to gamble by tricking it into full advance.

    If you're not lucky, you've thrown a rod or burnt a piston. BTW, it's been my position that playing around with getting the timing full on after you've reflashed is not a good thing to do. I don't know why anyone feels it's worth the risk but to each his own.
    Last edited by Robert46123; 04-23-2007 at 06:08 PM.
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    Registered User blackshadow's Avatar
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    Well it's hard to pinpoint exactly what kind of noise your hearing by your description. But the details of what you did as far as tuning make me believe your shortblock is in all likelyhood shot...

    Is it a loud noise that increases with revs? Is it only while in gear or out of gear? Do you only get it when moving, or is it just constant? This information would help. In any case, i would reflash to the cali map and also reset the ECU (don't know if it makes a difference with the Cobb).
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    I reflashed after I heard the noise, but it was to late. Had it taken to the my mech. Spun Rod bearing. 2.5 k to replace.

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    Registered User tayhadar1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    I reflashed after I heard the noise, but it was to late. Had it taken to the my mech. Spun Rod bearing. 2.5 k to replace.
    Ouch, on a side note, one does not need to do the iam cheat. For one thing it will go all the way to 16/16 within a few blocks and just going into boost. For another reason if you do it too quick you could be advancing the timing to quick which could lead to detonation. Don't know if this had anything to do with the rod bearing but just a side note
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    I get my car back today. Block was covered under Warranty. I had a new clutch and a Blue timing belt put on I also bought a prosport shift light and a custom air splitter. How long should I stay out of Boost. 500 miles?

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    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    I get my car back today. Block was covered under Warranty. I had a new clutch and a Blue timing belt put on I also bought a prosport shift light and a custom air splitter. How long should I stay out of Boost. 500 miles?
    Did they replace the whole short block? Ideally they should have, but I've heard of people getting spun bearings "fixed" under warranty, and all they do is replace the bearings. Once it spins, oil can't properly reach that bearinng, crank journal, and area of the crank shaft, so the whole bottom end should be replaced. In some cases, the block will still be OK, but the journals that hold the crank in, all the crank bearings, and the crank itself really should be replaced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SubyPsycho View Post
    Did they replace the whole short block? Ideally they should have, but I've heard of people getting spun bearings "fixed" under warranty, and all they do is replace the bearings. Once it spins, oil can't properly reach that bearinng, crank journal, and area of the crank shaft, so the whole bottom end should be replaced. In some cases, the block will still be OK, but the journals that hold the crank in, all the crank bearings, and the crank itself really should be replaced.
    Oh yeah I got a brand new short from Suby. But my question is do I have to go through a breakthrough period for everything to seat. And if so how long? 500miles or more?

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    Registered User SubyPsycho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    Oh yeah I got a brand new short from Suby. But my question is do I have to go through a breakthrough period for everything to seat. And if so how long? 500miles or more?
    If they gave you a whole new short block, you need to follow the standard break-in procedure from when the car was new. Even though the cams and valves are broken in, the pistons and rings need to seat into the cylinder walls.

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    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    you are VERY lucky they paid for your engine
    Did I mention that you are incredibly lucky?

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    Quote Originally Posted by efmd3 View Post
    you are VERY lucky they paid for your engine
    Did I mention that you are incredibly lucky?
    I assure you I am very aware.

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    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    I assure you I am very aware.
    subi warranties are not known for their stickyness...

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    Registered User seth7685's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IECaliwrx View Post
    I get my car back today. Block was covered under Warranty. I had a new clutch and a Blue timing belt put on I also bought a prosport shift light and a custom air splitter. How long should I stay out of Boost. 500 miles?
    Break in period aleast a 1000 miles and put regular dino oil in it for the first 1000 miles. Then you can change the oil to a synth. Advice from my teacher.

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