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This is a discussion on Mobil 1 in a '06 WRX??? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So SD, what you are saying is don't use the auto grade M1 5w30 but instead the M1 truck/SUV 5W40....

  1. #16
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    So SD, what you are saying is don't use the auto grade M1 5w30 but instead the M1 truck/SUV 5W40.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    So SD, what you are saying is don't use the auto grade M1 5w30 but instead the M1 truck/SUV 5W40.
    That's my plan, yes. I'm going to use the turbodiesel SUV formula, not the gasoline SUV formula. As you know the labels are marketing; I only mention them for specificity. And again, if you require a API SM oil and/or are under warranty, my oil of choice technically doesn't meet the spec (world class product or not...). I'd not give them any excuses but that's just me.

    Here's a link to my original report with the 5W-40 formula:
    Synthetic oil data: Mobil 1 used in 2.0L stock motor
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    That's my plan, yes. I'm going to use the turbodiesel SUV formula, not the gasoline SUV formula. As you know the labels are marketing; I only mention them for specificity. And again, if you require a API SM oil and/or are under warranty, my oil of choice technically doesn't meet the spec (world class product or not...). I'd not give them any excuses but that's just me.

    Here's a link to my original report with the 5W-40 formula:
    Synthetic oil data: Mobil 1 used in 2.0L stock motor
    I saw that formula on the shelf and almost bought it. And lets face it, I'm stage 2 how much warranty do I really have left
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    I saw that formula on the shelf and almost bought it. And lets face it, I'm stage 2 how much warranty do I really have left
    Not much warranty left, eh?...

    If you are boosting a lot it could be a good choice. It's not too thick like a 50, so it should not elevate your temps I'd imagine (I don't have an oil temp gauge so I can't tell, but I've been using 40s for years now -- the 5W-40 and the 0W-40 M1).

    I think it was Big Sky who posted great analysis results with Motul 300V Motorsport 5W40, and I also think Integra96 was a Delvac1/Truck-SUV 5W-40 user who switched to an Amsoil 5W-40 when the M1 got scarce. There's also a Saabaru user about who's run 0W-40 M1 etc.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Not much warranty left, eh?...

    If you are boosting a lot it could be a good choice. It's not too thick like a 50, so it should not elevate your temps I'd imagine (I don't have an oil temp gauge so I can't tell, but I've been using 40s for years now -- the 5W-40 and the 0W-40 M1).

    I think it was Big Sky who posted great analysis results with Motul 300V Motorsport 5W40, and I also think Integra96 was a Delvac1/Truck-SUV 5W-40 user who switched to an Amsoil 5W-40 when the M1 got scarce. There's also a Saabaru user about who's run 0W-40 M1 etc.
    Just an update SD_GR, I was at Walmart yesterday and a 5 qt jug of the M1 5w40 turbo diesel formula was $22.86 while the normal 5 Qt jug of M1 5w30 was $23.95. Looks like they had tons in stock so come next oil change I'll be running that.
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  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Just an update SD_GR, I was at Walmart yesterday and a 5 qt jug of the M1 5w40 turbo diesel formula was $22.86 while the normal 5 Qt jug of M1 5w30 was $23.95. Looks like they had tons in stock so come next oil change I'll be running that.
    I may be mistaken but I think the M1 5W-40 is in 4-QT jugs. Also, since you do have an 06 with the AVCS have a look at the thread 302@12PSI started today regarding the oil TSB on 06 models and the new required OCI for turbo motors. It seems SOA have had issues pop up with AVCS-equipped cars relating to coked up screen filters in some oil lines, and have seen outright failures. A lot is still speculation but it's worthwhile reading IMO.

    The only other reservation I'd have about an out-of-warranty car requiring an SM oil is that the 5W-40 is an SL, meaning it won't be as friendly to catalytic converters (I don't know how many you have on the car).
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I may be mistaken but I think the M1 5W-40 is in 4-QT jugs. Also, since you do have an 06 with the AVCS have a look at the thread 302@12PSI started today regarding the oil TSB on 06 models and the new required OCI for turbo motors. It seems SOA have had issues pop up with AVCS-equipped cars relating to coked up screen filters in some oil lines, and have seen outright failures. A lot is still speculation but it's worthwhile reading IMO.

    The only other reservation I'd have about an out-of-warranty car requiring an SM oil is that the 5W-40 is an SL, meaning it won't be as friendly to catalytic converters (I don't know how many you have on the car).

    Nope the jugs at Walmart were 5 QT I did a triple take given that our cars seem to take between 4-5 qt's, to make sure.

    I did read that thread this morning and it scared me as Im not 100% positive on weather the oil I had been using was GL4 or not. (I was using NAPA 5w30 conventional if you happen to know.) I'm fairly certain it was, but I'm not extremely worried, as my oil change interval with the Dino oil was between 2500-2900 miles. I have found my driving style seems to be best suited for shorter service intervals, not to mention I don't like black sludge.

    Currently I'm running normal M1 SYN as swapped in 500 miles ago. I did notice first tank with the M1 syn (first change with syn in this car) my gas mileage went up 1-2 MPG from 22ish-24. Now with city only driving I seem to be getting consistent 22-23 MPG where as I was at 20-21MPG before.
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  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Nope the jugs at Walmart were 5 QT I did a triple take given that our cars seem to take between 4-5 qt's, to make sure.
    That's a great price!

    I did read that thread this morning and it scared me as Im not 100% positive on weather the oil I had been using was GL4 or not. (I was using NAPA 5w30 conventional if you happen to know.) I'm fairly certain it was, but I'm not extremely worried, as my oil change interval with the Dino oil was between 2500-2900 miles. I have found my driving style seems to be best suited for shorter service intervals, not to mention I don't like black sludge.
    With such a short interval I'd not worry. See how/if they resolve the issue with the filters (if it exists) and go from there. I hope they just pull all the cars and deal with it but that's not what seems to be going on (yet?).

    Currently I'm running normal M1 SYN as swapped in 500 miles ago.
    In my 2.0L turbo the normal M1 30s would burn off up to 600 ml per oil change interval. This isn't earth-stopping but it's enough to notice a drop on the stick. Just FYI to keep an eye on it as needed etc.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    So I stopped by NAPA Autoparts to pick up an air filter for the wifes car and checked their oil isle. I had always heard that NAPA's oil was made by Valvoline and another Napa staffer coroberated it unbaited. Turns out the Dino oil I had been using by them was approved for use and energy conserving. Napa also offers a synthetic (possibly valvoline syn?) for mid $4 range per bottle. Here is what it looks like. What do you think?



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    I'm confused by those parts of the label I can see, as it seems to be both SM and SL ("SM/SL") but I wasn't aware that an oil could be both -- I know they differ in additive content due to added restrictions in (I believe) phosphorus, but don't know the details.

    To get a better answer try Bob Is the Oil Guy. That site's a great source of info, they've probably got it posted previously somewhere.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    So nobody GTX? I'm in the desert so I've been using Castrol GTX 10w40 (as per suby's manual) w/ 1 qt of Lucas's High Performance Import Oil Treatment, with the K&N High Perf Gold oil filter
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    I've got a Toyota about to turn 200,000 miles and it's had GTX 10W-30 since day 1, from SH to SJ to SL, and now SM formulations. I can see some varnish buildup when I open the fill spout but I don't care; the motor has never been apart. Just ancillaries.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I've got a Toyota about to turn 200,000 miles and it's had GTX 10W-30 since day 1, from SH to SJ to SL, and now SM formulations. I can see some varnish buildup when I open the fill spout but I don't care; the motor has never been apart. Just ancillaries.
    SD,

    It seems you are riding the fence here. You are praising synthetic to the ends of the earth, yet you use conventional oil in your Toyota. Why did you never put synthetic in it when you seem to be such and adamant supporter of synthetic?

    I've been told by several reliable sources (inclucing mechanics, and my instructor for the aviation fundamentals of propulsion class in college) that if you are religiously changing your oil every 3000 miles, there is no need for it; that synthetic oil was originally developed for turbine engines, needing to go long periods w/o having to change the lubricants; automobile engines were designed for the oil to be changed regularly.

    I also use GTX 5/30 in the STi. Castrol > any other brand. If it's good enough to help your Toy last 200K miles, it's good enough for the STi.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike05STi View Post
    SD,

    It seems you are riding the fence here. You are praising synthetic to the ends of the earth, yet you use conventional oil in your Toyota. Why did you never put synthetic in it when you seem to be such and adamant supporter of synthetic?
    I don't shop oil for the Toyota, I change it. I was presented with a status quo and just pressed on with it. I started changing the oil in it at roughly 100K (if memory serves) and done so ever since. I'd rather double the OCI and go from GTX to Castrol's GroupIV synths. (Edit: SD married).

    The cars that I do shop oil for are our Subaru (M1), Honda (M1) and 323 (Fuchs or BP depending on availability).

    I do believe any competent oil used in the correct interval can provide adequate protection, and AAMOF I've stated so repeatedly -- any competent oil today used according to SOAs OCIs will provide adequate protection for at least the full warranty period.

    Wherever it makes financial sense and I have a choice, I'd opt for robust formulations/additive packages, ease of use (with 4 cars, long OCIs are better), and better physical/chemical properties. That very often means a synth. (EDIT2: less time under car, less stuff to recycle, happier me -- I just can't accept short OCIs in the 21st century, it's unacceptable).
    Last edited by SD_GR; 05-08-2007 at 01:13 PM.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike05STi View Post
    I've been told by several reliable sources (inclucing mechanics, and my instructor for the aviation fundamentals of propulsion class in college) that if you are religiously changing your oil every 3000 miles, there is no need for it; that synthetic oil was originally developed for turbine engines, needing to go long periods w/o having to change the lubricants; automobile engines were designed for the oil to be changed regularly.
    I had heard this same thing and still do from mechanics within my family and friends (I'm 3rd generation mechanic turned Engineer). So when I first started driving I used nothing but conventional name brands, Valvoline, Castrol, anything but Pennsoil. Often I was told by some of the elder mechanics that synthetic caused motors to "come apart" and was "too slippery" especially when dealing with muscle cars and American engines built from that era or to go in cars of that era.

    Later on when I started owning and maintaining performance cars with high compression ratios and high HP/stress applications, I found that no matter how short the service interval (read 2000 miles or so) conventional oil would break down with my driving style. Especially in the CA central Valley Summers where temps often rival Phoenix and LV in the low 100's. It was then I first started using additives and synthetics and experimenting until I found something that worked. Since then I have been sold on synthetics in the right application.

    For example my wifes car 2005 Scion although I am partially guilty, gets Castrol conventional every 5-7k miles (she never tells me its time for an oil change). On the last change I definitely noticed with her extended service intervals and almost 50,000 miles (out of warranty) that the castrol was even starting to break down and sludge up. I didn't bother with a chemical analysis, but from now on since the motor has become more worn and conventional seems to be doing a marginal job, I will switch to a synthetic.

    There is definitely a time and place for both oils. I always start with conventional and work toward synthetic out of necessity. (Except of course in my cars that required Syn from factory)

    Following the bare minimum guidelines for oil quality established by the OE of course.
    Last edited by 06wrx4me; 05-08-2007 at 01:40 PM.
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