So SD, what you are saying is don't use the auto grade M1 5w30 but instead the M1 truck/SUV 5W40.
This is a discussion on Mobil 1 in a '06 WRX??? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So SD, what you are saying is don't use the auto grade M1 5w30 but instead the M1 truck/SUV 5W40....
Here's a link to my original report with the 5W-40 formula:
Synthetic oil data: Mobil 1 used in 2.0L stock motor
If you are boosting a lot it could be a good choice. It's not too thick like a 50, so it should not elevate your temps I'd imagine (I don't have an oil temp gauge so I can't tell, but I've been using 40s for years now -- the 5W-40 and the 0W-40 M1).
I think it was Big Sky who posted great analysis results with Motul 300V Motorsport 5W40, and I also think Integra96 was a Delvac1/Truck-SUV 5W-40 user who switched to an Amsoil 5W-40 when the M1 got scarce. There's also a Saabaru user about who's run 0W-40 M1 etc.
The only other reservation I'd have about an out-of-warranty car requiring an SM oil is that the 5W-40 is an SL, meaning it won't be as friendly to catalytic converters (I don't know how many you have on the car).
Nope the jugs at Walmart were 5 QT I did a triple take given that our cars seem to take between 4-5 qt's, to make sure.
I did read that thread this morning and it scared me as Im not 100% positive on weather the oil I had been using was GL4 or not. (I was using NAPA 5w30 conventional if you happen to know.) I'm fairly certain it was, but I'm not extremely worried, as my oil change interval with the Dino oil was between 2500-2900 miles. I have found my driving style seems to be best suited for shorter service intervals, not to mention I don't like black sludge.
Currently I'm running normal M1 SYN as swapped in 500 miles ago. I did notice first tank with the M1 syn (first change with syn in this car) my gas mileage went up 1-2 MPG from 22ish-24. Now with city only driving I seem to be getting consistent 22-23 MPG where as I was at 20-21MPG before.
With such a short interval I'd not worry. See how/if they resolve the issue with the filters (if it exists) and go from there. I hope they just pull all the cars and deal with it but that's not what seems to be going on (yet?).I did read that thread this morning and it scared me as Im not 100% positive on weather the oil I had been using was GL4 or not. (I was using NAPA 5w30 conventional if you happen to know.) I'm fairly certain it was, but I'm not extremely worried, as my oil change interval with the Dino oil was between 2500-2900 miles. I have found my driving style seems to be best suited for shorter service intervals, not to mention I don't like black sludge.In my 2.0L turbo the normal M1 30s would burn off up to 600 ml per oil change interval. This isn't earth-stopping but it's enough to notice a drop on the stick. Just FYI to keep an eye on it as needed etc.Currently I'm running normal M1 SYN as swapped in 500 miles ago.
So I stopped by NAPA Autoparts to pick up an air filter for the wifes car and checked their oil isle. I had always heard that NAPA's oil was made by Valvoline and another Napa staffer coroberated it unbaited. Turns out the Dino oil I had been using by them was approved for use and energy conserving. Napa also offers a synthetic (possibly valvoline syn?) for mid $4 range per bottle. Here is what it looks like. What do you think?
I'm confused by those parts of the label I can see, as it seems to be both SM and SL ("SM/SL") but I wasn't aware that an oil could be both -- I know they differ in additive content due to added restrictions in (I believe) phosphorus, but don't know the details.
To get a better answer try Bob Is the Oil Guy. That site's a great source of info, they've probably got it posted previously somewhere.
So nobody GTX? I'm in the desert so I've been using Castrol GTX 10w40 (as per suby's manual) w/ 1 qt of Lucas's High Performance Import Oil Treatment, with the K&N High Perf Gold oil filter
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I've got a Toyota about to turn 200,000 miles and it's had GTX 10W-30 since day 1, from SH to SJ to SL, and now SM formulations. I can see some varnish buildup when I open the fill spout but I don't care; the motor has never been apart. Just ancillaries.
It seems you are riding the fence here. You are praising synthetic to the ends of the earth, yet you use conventional oil in your Toyota. Why did you never put synthetic in it when you seem to be such and adamant supporter of synthetic?
I've been told by several reliable sources (inclucing mechanics, and my instructor for the aviation fundamentals of propulsion class in college) that if you are religiously changing your oil every 3000 miles, there is no need for it; that synthetic oil was originally developed for turbine engines, needing to go long periods w/o having to change the lubricants; automobile engines were designed for the oil to be changed regularly.
I also use GTX 5/30 in the STi. Castrol > any other brand. If it's good enough to help your Toy last 200K miles, it's good enough for the STi.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.
Some people go through their whole lives wondering if they ever made a difference in the world. Marines don't have that problem.
The cars that I do shop oil for are our Subaru (M1), Honda (M1) and 323 (Fuchs or BP depending on availability).
I do believe any competent oil used in the correct interval can provide adequate protection, and AAMOF I've stated so repeatedly -- any competent oil today used according to SOAs OCIs will provide adequate protection for at least the full warranty period.
Wherever it makes financial sense and I have a choice, I'd opt for robust formulations/additive packages, ease of use (with 4 cars, long OCIs are better), and better physical/chemical properties. That very often means a synth. (EDIT2: less time under car, less stuff to recycle, happier me -- I just can't accept short OCIs in the 21st century, it's unacceptable).
Last edited by SD_GR; 05-08-2007 at 02:13 PM.
Later on when I started owning and maintaining performance cars with high compression ratios and high HP/stress applications, I found that no matter how short the service interval (read 2000 miles or so) conventional oil would break down with my driving style. Especially in the CA central Valley Summers where temps often rival Phoenix and LV in the low 100's. It was then I first started using additives and synthetics and experimenting until I found something that worked. Since then I have been sold on synthetics in the right application.
For example my wifes car 2005 Scion although I am partially guilty, gets Castrol conventional every 5-7k miles (she never tells me its time for an oil change). On the last change I definitely noticed with her extended service intervals and almost 50,000 miles (out of warranty) that the castrol was even starting to break down and sludge up. I didn't bother with a chemical analysis, but from now on since the motor has become more worn and conventional seems to be doing a marginal job, I will switch to a synthetic.
There is definitely a time and place for both oils. I always start with conventional and work toward synthetic out of necessity. (Except of course in my cars that required Syn from factory)
Following the bare minimum guidelines for oil quality established by the OE of course.
Last edited by 06wrx4me; 05-08-2007 at 02:40 PM.