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This is a discussion on really worrying me =[ within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; heyy clubwrx =] a little background info on my car, first of all. its a 2003 wrx with 41k miles ...

  1. #1
    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    really worrying me =[

    heyy clubwrx =]
    a little background info on my car, first of all. its a 2003 wrx with 41k miles on it, and it has an aftermarket uppipe, dp, exhaust system, perrin crank pulley, some sort of higher-stage clutch, injen cold air intake, turbosmart bov, sti intercooler, fuel rails, and some sort of aftermarket turbo (sorry that i dont know what manufacturer most of these are.. i bought the car this way).

    it was running rich after i bought it, and stopped after the dealership put in a new o2 sensor because the old one had its wiring burned onto the exhaust.
    the CEL turned back on quick, however, and when i took it back, they diagnosed it for free and here is what they printed on my invoice:

    NOTE AFTERMARKET UPPIPE, FUEL RAIL INJECTORS, COLD AIR INTAKE ETC. CAR IS RUNNING ROUGH MISFIRE, NEED TO RUN LEAK DOWN, COMPRESSION TEST, FUEL PRESSURE TEST. DECARB AND VALVE ADJUST TO START HR 8.9 PT 289 TO START

    they told me that there was some sort of problem with the valves (on cylinders 2 and 4? sorry im not TOO technically savvy yet -_-), the car is still running rich, and that all the repairs would cost around $1550.

    do you guys have any ideas? here are the things i noticed messing up while i drive..
    -it does not rev high smoothly. i let the motor warm up more than enough before pushing it, and in some gears it feels like the throttle is periodically not injecting fuel. you hear the car rev, then stop and rev again intermittently. the acceleration gets rough.
    -when i push in the clutch and put it in neutral to coast to a stop, the rpms drop dangerously sometimes - to even lower than 500 rpm - then they come back up to the normal idling region (800-1000). however, sometimes the rpms just die and the car turns off, with the battery icon illuminating as if the car stalled. it has a hard time starting again after this happens. it cant be the battery because i put in a new battery just last week =/
    -the car seems to run better when i am running slightly low on gas. i've noticed that it runs really well, with less of that rough acceleration and no "turnings-off" at idle, when the fuel level is around the last mark. after i fill it up, the car starts to get rough again and have bad idling control.

    and also, what is it exactly when the car is running a misfire?

    i'm pretty worried because they want to run a compression test..

    any help at ALL would be greatly appreciated!

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    Sounds to me like the car has an AWFUL tune on it. Has it ran this way from the start? What kind of fuel have you been putting into the car? To be honest I'd figure out what they used to tune the car and try to find a local shop with a dyno to tune it. Odds are someone might have put different injectors in there and it's running like crap on a bad tune. Either that or someone used a OTS map and tossed on a bunch of extras like a BOV and intake (both of which can cause issues you are describing). The leakdown or compression test is just because they are ruling out a blown motor before trying to go farther.

    IMHO a car this modded is worthless to take to the dealer. You need to find a performance shop that deals with theses cars day in and day out.

    Be very careful with your tranny if it has a upgraded clutch. Most of the time an upgraded clutch+hard driving+modded motor= blown tranny.
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    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    i've been putting only premium in it.
    but if it's only running a bad tune, would that make the CEL turn on?
    and would a tune shop be a good place to take my car for something like this?

    thanks for the help~

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    Registered User gda03subaru's Avatar
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    need more info

    do you know approx what they said about the valves? Do a compression test or leakdown. If the car has bent valves could explain the odd pulsations during acceleration. Also the car is dying when you let off the gas because the blow off valve is venting to atmosphere. If you set it up like stock the problem will go away. This is caused from the car running extremely rich for a few seconds, the mass airflow sensor located after the airfilter calculates the air taken in for that compression cycle, when you let off the gas the motor draws vaccum and releases the left over pressure inside the intake system via the blow off valve to keep from damaging the turbo or throttle plate . The mass airflow sensor determines how much fuel the motor needs by figuring out how much air it just pulled in. but when you release a third of that air which has already been calculated, you get not enough air for that amount of fuel mixture.

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    Quote Originally Posted by koogxone View Post
    i've been putting only premium in it.
    but if it's only running a bad tune, would that make the CEL turn on?
    and would a tune shop be a good place to take my car for something like this?

    thanks for the help~
    It could if it's running a poor tune and they didnt cancel out CELS for your catless setup.
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    Banned sonicrx's Avatar
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    not enough info what turbo ?what injectors? if they are pe 800's the stall ,or idle drop is normal. all pe injectors are slow.... could have a stock turbo with over sized injectors . the guy he bought the car from could have sold the turbo,and put the stock one on. hell he could have sold injectors as well. you need to find a speed shop ,and have them look at the car. better yet find a local enthusiast that has a wrx ,and have him take a look to see if you still have an upgraded turbo,and injectors. there could be a hundred different things going on

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    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 302@12psi View Post
    It could if it's running a poor tune and they didnt cancel out CELS for your catless setup.
    as far as i know, i'm running catted.

    Quote Originally Posted by sonicrx View Post
    not enough info what turbo ?what injectors? if they are pe 800's the stall ,or idle drop is normal. all pe injectors are slow.... could have a stock turbo with over sized injectors . the guy he bought the car from could have sold the turbo,and put the stock one on. hell he could have sold injectors as well. you need to find a speed shop ,and have them look at the car. better yet find a local enthusiast that has a wrx ,and have him take a look to see if you still have an upgraded turbo,and injectors. there could be a hundred different things going on
    my turbo says IHI on it, and a number like 90.8(? i'll go check later sorry hahah). i'll take pictures later.. sorry about all the ambiguity.


    and also, can you tell me how to set up my bov like stock? heh i really don't know much yet.

    thanks

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    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    another thing:

    i noticed that AgentH made a thread about the engine stuttering under hard acceleration, and that sounds almost exactly like what i described about my acceleration. just in case you guys didnt get what i meant exactly

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    Registered User gda03subaru's Avatar
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    you may need to recirculate the bov or if it has an adjustment spring try to stiffen it up a little. But we still need to know more on the car, turbo and injector color/size would help alot like they said. Also give some information on the brands of the upgrades you have on the car

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    Registered User scooby-x's Avatar
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    Are you running an accesport or did they reflash? There should be no lights if it is mapped properly...
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    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    i took some pics to try to clear some things up.

    and as far as i know, its not running an accessport. not sure if they reflashed =/. i bought the car this way so i dont really know.




    top of the turbo..

    and the left.

    that lettering on the turbo says "IHI Turbo."


    heh, i guess the fuel rails are perrin :P



    there's also a LOT of carbon buildup on the exhaust tip.

    =/

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    Registered User koogxone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gda03subaru View Post
    you may need to recirculate the bov or if it has an adjustment spring try to stiffen it up a little. But we still need to know more on the car, turbo and injector color/size would help alot like they said. Also give some information on the brands of the upgrades you have on the car
    can you tell me how to recirculate/stiffen up the adjustment spring?
    hahah sorry i feel like such a noob.

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    Banned sonicrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooby-x View Post
    Are you running an accesport or did they reflash? There should be no lights if it is mapped properly...

    ap is a reflash just in case yu did not know

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    Banned sonicrx's Avatar
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    probably a vf 34. if the injectors are blue they could be stock ,and or stock modified injectors which a poop imo .if they are pink they 565 sti injectors. either way i would first pressurize the system by taking the hose of the turbo and make a pvc pipe to fit the hose and fill her up and check for leaks. if you hear a hiss you have a leak. do not over analyze the problem start with the basics. if there is no leak check the plugs. then ohm out the coilpacks. if all is good them check compression and do a leakdown.

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    Registered User gda03subaru's Avatar
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    that blow off valve can not recirculate so next option stiffen up the spring, see the hard/soft marks on top of the blow off valve twist the top in the direction of hard, make small adjustments then test small adjustments then test drive untill the stalling problem is better. This adjustment will also change sound dont panic that is just part of having a bov in a car with a mass airflow sensor. I had this problem untill i traded the crappy greddy typre rs for a perrin. I agree with sonicrx there could be a boost leak hell it could even be as simple as swapping out the blow off valve since the suby's are very sensitive to vaccum leaks or boost leaks. I would have never bought a car this modded, i like to do my mods in small steps to see if you like or dislike the outcome. It could be so many things in this case i dont know where to start. I would find a suby guru in your area someone who does there own work. If i lived where you did i would be more than happy to render assitance as im sure other people on this forum would too. In order to properly diagnose such a problem without being there and riding in the car with such little info is next to impossible. All you can do is start trying some things on your own
    Last edited by gda03subaru; 03-25-2007 at 09:57 AM. Reason: oops

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