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This is a discussion on over heated?? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; 1: Have you tested the coolant for hydrocarbons? not yet, need to find somebody in town that can test it ...

  1. #16
    Registered User lovetheboost121's Avatar
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    1: Have you tested the coolant for hydrocarbons? not yet, need to find somebody in town that can test it
    2: Is the water pump leaking by the weep hole at all? no signs of any leakage
    3: AT what temperature is the fan coming on? (exactly. Plug into high end scanner for this info) will know in a few minutes
    4: Is the thermostat in backwards? no
    5: Is the radiator showing any signs of blockage? no
    6: How well is the heat working? good now that t-stat has been changed and system has been burped

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  3. #17
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    FYI you can have a plugged radiator and be impossible to tell. My old chevy ate 4 radiators before I got one that lasted. All were partially plugged even when using Deionized water.

    If the engine was replaced, certain shady shops pour coolant into oil drain pan and then pour back into radiator. If there were any metal shavings etc, it would cause a plug.

    And with the Subi being so finicky on coolant and since you've tried everything else...........points to a plugged radiator.

    Problem is subi has plastic end tanks, so there really is no boiling or testing for it being plugged. Just Replace.
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  4. #18
    Registered User lovetheboost121's Avatar
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    but wouldn't that cause the car to get hot even while idleing, because the only time it heats up is when i start going down the road, we let it idle for about 15 mins and it stayed at normal running temp.

  5. #19
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lovetheboost121 View Post
    but wouldn't that cause the car to get hot even while idleing, because the only time it heats up is when i start going down the road, we let it idle for about 15 mins and it stayed at normal running temp.
    Not necessarily.

    Depending on how much all the diagnosis and analizing costs, it might be cheaper and easier in the long run just to replace the radiator.

    If your coolant level is good, youve burped the system, replaced you t-stat, and both fans work properly, what else is there?

    Stock Radiator is about $240.
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  6. #20
    Registered User lovetheboost121's Avatar
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    is there any way to test to find out for sure that it is the radiator?

  7. #21
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lovetheboost121 View Post
    is there any way to test to find out for sure that it is the radiator?
    I've just always pulled the radiator and taken it to a shop. Most the time though they charge a $100 fee for cleaning the radiator out, which they'll do any way, and 60% of the time it doesn't work or only buys you till summer time. Since it has plastic end tanks they can only "flush" it not "boil" it, which is way less effective.

    Options:

    Worst case senario, you take it to the shop have it looked at, get charged $100 and still have to buy a new radiator= $340 total.

    Best case, $100 radiator flush works, at least for a while, =$100

    Or isn't the problem =$100 + more parts.

    Middle ground you buy a new radiator and put it in =$240.
    Or you say screw it and go with a performance aluminum one which is $???.
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  8. #22
    Registered User lovetheboost121's Avatar
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    update: there was no air in the system and the radiator flowed fine
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  9. #23
    Registered User lovetheboost121's Avatar
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    new update, removed water pump and when turning pulley side of the impeller shaft, impeller does not spin!!! new pump on the way. thanks for all your help guys!!
    Die Trying, Not Watching!!

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