RPM Spike = Slipping Clutch?

[SwisSlesS]

I first noticed this problem when I was driving to Ithaca this weekend, and I am able to reproduce it nearly every time under the same conditions.

I'm in 5th gear at 2500 RPMs. I press the gas 3/4+ of the way in. RPMs and speeodo climb normally. At 3000 RPMs they spike to around 3500 and then fall back down. The speedo doesn't jump with the RPM spike and everything continues normally once the RPMs drop back down. This doesn't happen if I started at 2250 RPMs or 2750 RPMs or in any other gears.

From searching I think that this indicates a clutch that's beginning to slip and is on it's way out. Does this sound like the right diagnosis?

I have a 2002 bugeye wagon with 51,000 miles (about 8,000 of which are mine), Stromung catback and cat-less midpipe.

Thanks.

[blackrex02]

yes

[ScoobVee]

jes

[Trainrex]

si

[SwisSlesS]

I guess I have another question then. Money's tight so I'd be inclined not to do anything about it until it gets a lot worse. Will I cause more damage to anything else by driving on it for a while? Will it be cheaper to replace now than when it's barely driveable?

[ScoobVee]

Get it replaced asap

Edit: It's cheaper to drive to the shop than it is to have it towed to the shop

[G4ORCE]

I guess I have another question then. Money's tight so I'd be inclined not to do anything about it until it gets a lot worse. Will I cause more damage to anything else by driving on it for a while? Will it be cheaper to replace now than when it's barely driveable?

For the love of GOD do it right away, i had a friend with an EVO who drove his car until the clutch went completely out, had to get it towed to the shop, then two hours after we installed an Exedy clutch the engine went out, dealer said due to the clutch (i REALLY highly doubt it). Bottom line its cheaper to change the clutch then to replace the engine

[bluerex47]

I guess I have another question then. Money's tight so I'd be inclined not to do anything about it until it gets a lot worse. Will I cause more damage to anything else by driving on it for a while? Will it be cheaper to replace now than when it's barely driveable?

I'll go against the two above and say you do have some time left with it, but it will start to go out relatively fast on you (I drove mine for a month afterwards, and just stayed away from the times when it would slip on me). I would recommend staying away from the situations when it slips (i.e. don't make it slip just to see if its still doing it lol) and start looking around for a replacement. Just for an idea, I got my ACT for $450. You could also replace it with another stocker for a little cheaper.

[SwisSlesS]

I'd like to get whatever will increase or at least maintain the longevity of the tranny. I know the tranny is weak, and I plan on driving this car for as long as I can. I'm assuming this would mean OEM, but if there's something better for my goals I would definitely be interested.

[ScoobVee]

I'll go against the two above and say you do have some time left with it

Never said not to drive it. Of course he has some time left out of it but very little at that. As I said earlier it should be a top priority to get it replaced as soon as he possibly can.

[bluerex47]

Never said not to drive it. Of course he has some time left out of it but very little at that. As I said earlier it should be a top priority to get it replaced as soon as he possibly can.

ah ok, gotcha

Look into OEM for sure. I think other people have gone with exedy and are happy. ACT is very nice too, but has a ton more grip...and if you slip up one good time, you can bust a gear like some rotton ole chap I know