Clutch question.....HELP....
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This is a discussion on Clutch question.....HELP.... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; What steps can I take to in sure that I won't burn up my clutch and to make it last? ...

  1. #1
    Registered User 4me2drv's Avatar
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    Clutch question.....HELP....

    What steps can I take to in sure that I won't burn up my clutch and to make it last?
    I'm somewhat new to shifting and not sure of the Do's and Don't of a clutch.
    Help, please.

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  3. #2
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    The best method is to modulate the throttle and clutch pedal together. For example, try not to rev the car too much while releasing the clutch from a dead stop. As you slowly increase RPM, 100 - 200 more than idle, with proper control, begin to release the clutch until under way. Do not rev the motor to oblivion and drop the clutch repetitively. Do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving, likewise try not to rock the car or hold the car on an incline with the clutch. Keep this in mind, and you should go a long way in prolonging your clutch and pressure plate.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

  4. #3
    Registered User 4me2drv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcpatters
    The best method is to modulate the throttle and clutch pedal together. For example, try not to rev the car too much while releasing the clutch from a dead stop. As you slowly increase RPM, 100 - 200 more than idle, with proper control, begin to release the clutch until under way. Do not rev the motor to oblivion and drop the clutch repetitively. Do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving, likewise try not to rock the car or hold the car on an incline with the clutch. Keep this in mind, and you should go a long way in prolonging your clutch and pressure plate.
    What rpm's should I be at before I start to release the clutch?
    As far as 2nd, 3rd, etc...I was told to shift at around 3,000 rpm's, is this correct?
    Thanks for the help.

  5. #4
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    If you are referring from a stand still, lightly press the accelerator, as the RPM increases to lets say to 900 RPM, slowly release the clutch. Be careful not to stall. As the clutch engages the flywheel add more throttle and away you go.

    I would suggest finding an open parking lot to practice before heading out on the road. Alternatively, find someone to go with you. Be careful.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

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    Registered User flyingpertyhigh's Avatar
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    the service manul for your car contains ideal shift speeds. mine suggested 15, 25, and 40 and its very smooth. once my car's warm i usually upshift clutchless with absoutely no grind or jerk at those speeds (although i'm not sure if this is bad for the car). anyway, repeatedly shifting at the recommended speeds my transmission shfits beautifully.

  7. #6
    Registered User 4me2drv's Avatar
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    I think I'm doing it right then, just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something that would wear my clutch out prematurely.
    Thanks for the help guys.

  8. #7
    Registered User houdini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpertyhigh
    the service manul for your car contains ideal shift speeds. mine suggested 15, 25, and 40 and its very smooth. once my car's warm i usually upshift clutchless with absoutely no grind or jerk at those speeds (although i'm not sure if this is bad for the car). anyway, repeatedly shifting at the recommended speeds my transmission shfits beautifully.
    Uh... not recommended. You can do it, but it's dangerous. If you're off at all, what's going to take the stress from matching up? Using the clutch, it's the synchro. Without... you get it.
    2003 White Sportswagon
    Mods: Cobb stg 2 (STX map), Whiteline strut braces, SRBs and swaybars, Kartboy rear endlinks, 04+ rear swaybar mounts, Hawk HPS brake pads meeting Powerslot front rotors, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01Rs, some stereo
    Pending: some more stereo. Front endlinks?

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    Registered User flyingpertyhigh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by houdini
    Uh... not recommended. You can do it, but it's dangerous. If you're off at all, what's going to take the stress from matching up? Using the clutch, it's the synchro. Without... you get it.
    i figured. although its not as though i'm staring at the tach waiting for 32 and then slamming it into second hoping it will pop in. i just pull it out of first, and pull it back and at the right rpm it literally slips in.

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    Registered User houdini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpertyhigh
    i figured. although its not as though i'm staring at the tach waiting for 32 and then slamming it into second hoping it will pop in. i just pull it out of first, and pull it back and at the right rpm it literally slips in.
    Well... good It's still hard on the car if you're off a little. To each their own?

    To the OP (since this has gone a bit off-topic), two things I would suggest:

    1. Minimize the time you spend with the clutch half-engaged. That's really rough on it.
    2. Learn to rev-match while shifting. Basically: while you're in neutral, rev the engine so that you match the speed you're going in to. This will reduce load on your clutch and transmission, and it's fun once you learn to do it
    2003 White Sportswagon
    Mods: Cobb stg 2 (STX map), Whiteline strut braces, SRBs and swaybars, Kartboy rear endlinks, 04+ rear swaybar mounts, Hawk HPS brake pads meeting Powerslot front rotors, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01Rs, some stereo
    Pending: some more stereo. Front endlinks?

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