Please Read - Bad knocking sound
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This is a discussion on Please Read - Bad knocking sound within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey guys, It's saturday so I cant take the car in yet, but need your opinions on what might be ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Please Read - Bad knocking sound

    Hey guys,

    It's saturday so I cant take the car in yet, but need your opinions on what might be the problem.

    I was driving on the highway and heard a knocking sound, I also noticed teh car seemed a little slow on acceleration. I turned my radio off and pushed the clutch in and the engine died. I was able to put it back in gear to keep it running but it seemed like if I didnt give it gas it didnt idle.

    I got the car home and boy it makes some NASTY knocking noise coming from under the hood. I have a small video, please take a look and let me know what you think.

    please right-click and save as first.

    VIDEO

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  3. #2
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    Hey guys,

    It's saturday so I cant take the car in yet, but need your opinions on what might be the problem.

    I was driving on the highway and heard a knocking sound, I also noticed teh car seemed a little slow on acceleration. I turned my radio off and pushed the clutch in and the engine died. I was able to put it back in gear to keep it running but it seemed like if I didnt give it gas it didnt idle.

    I got the car home and boy it makes some NASTY knocking noise coming from under the hood. I have a small video, please take a look and let me know what you think.

    VIDEO
    Sounds like the bottom end or a rod knocking. How many miles on the motor and what modifications do you have?
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

  4. #3
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Mods are in my profile:
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    Just passed 76k

    If it's a rod, what's the ballpark on getting that fixed you think? Shoudl the car be brought Immediately to the shop?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  5. #4
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    The knocking is something internal for sure. The mileage isn't too bad. Do you beat on the motor alot? If it's indeed the bottom end, your best bet may be a rebuilt short block. As for what it's going to cost, can you turn a wrench? I'd imagine a decent short block would be at least $2K.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

  6. #5
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    *sigh*

    Not sure I can afford to keep going on this car with the money I've spent. Hrmm. I imagine if I need a new block I'll be selling the car...

    It's a daily driver and I'm well too novice for replacing a block. WOuld probably be another 500-1k for labor you think to install?
    Last edited by Fuchs; 06-17-2006 at 04:57 PM.

  7. #6
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    Well, look around and have someone assess the car's knocking sound. I am only going by what I hear from a short video. Try not to drive the car until you know exactly what's wrong with it. Did you purchase the car used? If you sell it, you will probably not be any better off. The investment into getting it fixed, will be less than purchasing another car. This way you will know what you have while not losing out on the money you have invested.

    I know what you are going through. I had an Z28 that had the motor let go.
    Last edited by dcpatters; 06-17-2006 at 04:44 PM.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

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    Boba Fett BrianH's Avatar
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    yep that sounds costly. sorry

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    Registered User Gilitar's Avatar
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    Any updates yet?

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    Depending on when the mods were done getting 76,000 miles out of a modded motor is not shabby at all.
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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    sounds like a blown motor.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  12. #11
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    I'll keep this updated as I get more information. Just to give you an idea of a ****ty couple weeks.

    First I hit a turkey doing ~55mph and screw up the car.

    LINK

    Then on the weekend before I take in into the shop for bodywork this happens. Monday morning the car was dropped off to get the bodywork done. I have the 02/03 hoodscoop so trying to get the right one ordered and described was a pain. They ordered the hoodscoop then yesterday tell me the one they ordered doesn't fit. I figured they ordered the wrong year , like an 04/05 but they said it was an 03. I can't even get there to look since I would have to take time off...gah! So I ended up having to order one online...sucksss.

    The good news so far is that I found a mechanic that's done work for me in the past on my Honda's and he's willing to work on my car. He's a family friend, a master mechanic on at least honda's and knows his shyt. I'm hoping that when I get the car to him he can fix it with minimal cost. I have to pay $100 to flatbed the truck to him, but what's $100 when you're spending 10x that to fix it right?

    It could be the lifter since the car runs, drives "fine" (Dont worry I'm not driving it), it just seems to have less power (like a cylinder isn't working or stuck). I'm hoping they can pull the headers off and fix it from the top....you think??

    I'm being optomistic.

  13. #12
    Registered User wrx wagone's Avatar
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    I'm pretty positive that is rod knock. If you're lucky he will be able to rebuild the bottom end, but that may be as costly as buying a short block. I'd start looking into prices on short blocks. Once he has the motor apart, he will be able to tell you if it is indeed rod knock. Then you can figure out what your next move is. Rebuild your block or buy a short block.
    This message printed on 100% recycled electrons.

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    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    From what I've been reading and what not, most people that have gone through this end up buying a replacement small block. I may also take the advice to keep the original for the possibility to rebuild it at my leisure.

    I probably won't know until next week at the earliest.

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    Subscribe, since I will be looking for one with a blown motor soon....
    My water heater has a blow off valve.

  16. #15
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Update:

    Since it's the holiday the car hasn't been looked at a whole lot. I got a call from a mechanic I've used many times in the past and it doesn't seem he's very optimistic on the cars condition. As of right now he's still unsure of the actual problem since he hasn't taken the engine out to take a look. We had him go out and look for prices on different options to go for fixing it and to say the least I'm not a happy camper.

    New 2.0L Small block from dealer: 6000.00 (Gimme a F***ing break....that's ridiculous)

    (1) Used 2.0L Used w/50k - 3000.00

    (1) Used 2.0L Used w/turbo and ~50k miles - 3500.00

    Reman: He says no one makes remanufactured 2.0L's?? Sounds a bit weird.

    Rebuild: He's "checking" with a buddy to see if he can rebuild. I would imagine this is the route I want to go since I'm not convinced teh damage is major. He said it sounds like its coming from the top of the block, so it's possible that it's a valve/piston head making the sound. If this is the case I imagine I can get it fixed much cheaper as long as the block/headers are intact.

    I was also looking at CobbTuning at their Stage 1 2.5L and they are drop-in for $2300+core charge. C'mon...who wouldn't want to put a 2.5L in instead?? And for cheaper than a USED 2.0L?? Seems like a no-brainer. I called Cobb and asked what was needed to actually make this work. THey said as far as hardware you would need a water pump and the original headers. THat's it. Here's the hard part. You obviously need the car tuned on the spot, so a Protune is required as well. THere's no remote base map or anything they cna load on it to help you get the car to a tuner that may be at a different location.

    The problem: The car isn't anywhere near a tuner that I know of (Holland, Michigan) for Cobb AP. I think Jorge is the closest and he's miles away in Chi town. I don't think I am going to have the option of doing the 2.5L swap because of this. It might be ok not to do it since it is suggested to upgrade the usual pieces if you intent on keeping the 2.5L (Injectors, Fuel Pump, Turbo). But how friggin cool would it be to have!? I don't think I need to answer that.

    At this point... WHat do you guys think I should do? Cost is a major factor in getting this fixed and since it IS a daily driver is it really worth spending a retarded amount of cash? I've already lost money, and still owe ~13500 for it on the loan even.....I'm guessing I should be smart and try to get it fixed back to stock as cheap as possible...but.....


    I'll update again later when there's more information.


    P.S.
    I had the car in the shop for bodywork, and it looks really nice. I got a new Hood, Hoodscoop, and the two fron quarterpanels were repainted as well. The car LOOKS great...now if I could drive it in the summer I would be happy
    Last edited by Fuchs; 07-04-2006 at 07:42 AM.

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