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This is a discussion on Please Read - Bad knocking sound within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I would get the COBB block. Forged internals are a big plus. Glad to hear you are progressing on getting ...

  1. #31
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    I would get the COBB block. Forged internals are a big plus. Glad to hear you are progressing on getting the car on the road.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    I'm thinking about ordering Cobb's Stage 1 shortblock now. Comes with forged components and its only like $600 more than a stock EJ257.

    What are your guys thoughts?


    EDIT: and the ej257 doesn't come with internals..just the block
    there are many shops out that have a shortblock similar if not exactly like cobs stg1, they are all within a few hundred dollars of each other.. crawford has a sale on theirs, i believe its in the $2,2XX range because of a july special
    14.160@96.011
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    airhog, removed silencer, and removed stock catback exhaust (stock DPs in place) and craptacular california 91 octane piss water

  4. #33
    Registered User WRX13oy's Avatar
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    i went with gruppe-s because for only a little bit more, you get upgraded rod and main bearings and its professionally balanced
    SOCAL F4#02 OG member

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  5. #34
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Ok guys,

    If I'm upgrading the block I should upgrade my turbo/injectors as well correct? Which would you suggest on the 2.5L block? I want something that will bolt directly on without modifications and I don't need a retarded amount of HP. The VF34 was the upgrade for the 2.0L and while it's larger than a VF39 is it still a viable upgrade for the money? Should I look at any of the Deadbolt Turbo's? and if so which ones? I don't think I want to go extremeley large just a nice upgrade.

    Thoughts?

  6. #35
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    Ok guys,

    If I'm upgrading the block I should upgrade my turbo/injectors as well correct? Which would you suggest on the 2.5L block? I want something that will bolt directly on without modifications and I don't need a retarded amount of HP. The VF34 was the upgrade for the 2.0L and while it's larger than a VF39 is it still a viable upgrade for the money? Should I look at any of the Deadbolt Turbo's? and if so which ones? I don't think I want to go extremeley large just a nice upgrade.

    Thoughts?
    Deadbolt 18g (zilla) for a daily driver or 20g for a drag car (more lag, more power) FTW
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  7. #36
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    For teh Deadbolt 18G is there any modifications for installing or is it a direct bolt on? In other words, can I order it and injectors and just install them without anything special?

    (other than a tune )

  8. #37
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    For teh Deadbolt 18G is there any modifications for installing or is it a direct bolt on? In other words, can I order it and injectors and just install them without anything special?

    (other than a tune )
    it comes with MORE than you need...but that makes the install easier. Comes with oil lines, water lines, boost control hoses (you still need the restrictor pill from your stock turbo) and even new stud bolts and a new uppipe gasket!

    all you need is injectors, and don't forget the fuel pump.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  9. #38
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    I'm really torn... I want to save money yet not have to upgrade crap later.

    Do I...

    1) Buy a cobb/gruppe-s block with forged internals BUT stay on stock turbo/injectors to save money now? This would mean later on I will have to pay for those parts + another tune. ~$6000

    2) Buy a stock EJ257 block and stay stock with turbo etc? This would save me 600-1000 on cost of the forged internals block and no turbo/injectors/pump. This would also mean that later on I will have to buy those parts, install and another tune. ~$4700

    3) Buy a stock EJ257 block and upgrade the Turbo/Injectors now. This will cost more than option #2 but save me money for installation cost and a tune in the future. $5800 same as #2 + turbo/injectors/pump.

    4) Buy a used 2.0L and swap out parts..done. This would save money on tuning and labor but I would be left with a used 2.0L with 50k miles. $4300 (3k for a complete assy + labor)

    4) Piss the wife off and go WAY into credit debt - Buy the cobb/gruppe-s motor AND upgrade Turbo/Injectors. This option would most likley put me around 6900-7100.00 in the end....


    Prices:
    Towing cost to mechanic: $100
    Timing Belt - $150?
    Gaskets - $200
    EJ257 - 1775+shipping
    Cobb - 2300+core+shipping
    Water Pump - $40
    Cylinder Head Cleaning and Verify (if it works etc) - $150
    Tune @ P&L - ~$400

    Labor: He quoted me 17hrs on the full engine swap ( $75/hr x 17 = $1275 ) , and I'm not sure how much more for a block swap be he suggested an additional 15hrs. ( $75/hr x 32 = 2400 ).

    Turbo's:
    VF34 - 500-650
    18G - ?
    Injectors - Pinks (200-400), Helix 650's (300-500)
    Fuel Pump - (75-150)
    Last edited by Fuchs; 07-26-2006 at 10:02 AM.

  10. #39
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    absolutely NOT worth going into debt for this.

    I don't think you really need forged internals for an 18g. Remember, you're running a bigger motor, so an 18g on a 2.5L motor is about the same as running a 16g on the 2.0L, which is doable.

    might be cheaper to just take the money you were going to spend on the motor, sell the car as is, and put money down on a new one.

    (I was almost in the same boat...I was about to do a turbo swap in my WRX, but ended up selling everything and getting another car for the same money. Its easy to get caugt up with mods and upgrades and lose track of the fact that the mods cost you more than just buying a new car that will outperform your modded car STOCK)

    $7000+whatever your car is worth with the blown motor = nice down payment on a car worth ~$30K which will leave you with monthly payments of about $380/month
    Last edited by blarg; 07-26-2006 at 10:04 AM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  11. #40
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    absolutely NOT worth going into debt for this.

    I don't think you really need forged internals for an 18g. Remember, you're running a bigger motor, so an 18g on a 2.5L motor is about the same as running a 16g on the 2.0L, which is doable.

    might be cheaper to just take the money you were going to spend on the motor, sell the car as is, and put money down on a new one.

    (I was almost in the same boat...I was about to do a turbo swap in my WRX, but ended up selling everything and getting another car for the same money. Its easy to get caugt up with mods and upgrades and lose track of the fact that the mods cost you more than just buying a new car that will outperform your modded car STOCK)

    $7000+whatever your car is worth with the blown motor = nice down payment on a car worth ~$30K which will leave you with monthly payments of about $380/month
    Here's the kicker....This was going on Credit so I don't have the money available for a down payment. I also still owe $13k for the car yet.... I think I'm pretty much screwed as is....If I sell as if I will have money left on the loan to pay it off... Then would need more money for another car. I'm stuck in a rock and a hard place for sure.

    I've debated just getting rid of it and getting out. I could get a 12k car but then that's the same thing I'm driving right now...it just happened to cost me a lot more.
    Last edited by Fuchs; 07-26-2006 at 10:13 AM.

  12. #41
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    Here's the kicker....This was going on Credit so I don't have the money available for a down payment. I also still owe $13k for the car yet.... I think I'm pretty much screwed as is....If I sell as if I will have money left on the loan to pay it off... Then would need more money for another car. I'm stuck in a rock and a hard place for sure.
    yup

    in that case I wouldn't bother with the VF34.

    Get a 2.5 block from Cobb or Gruppe-S (may as well have a fresh block). They should both be good for about 450 HP. You can talk them them first and tell them you want to use it with a 18g and make sure it will handle it.

    then just run the stock turbo until you can afford turbo/injectors. You'll still have the performance of an 06, with a bunch more torque until you can swap the turbo. I have a huge problem going into debt, so I'd get as little as I possibly could especially if I was going on credit. You can't always have everything. Once you've paid off the block, you're looking at ~$2000 for deadbolt 18g/injectors/fuel pump/tune.

    It doesn't matter that you'll be "saving" money by getting it now. You have to actually HAVE them money to save it.

    personally, I'd just get another 2.0 block (minimum cost), drive it till its paid off, and buy an STi (or something else). you got what, 2 years left on your loan? instead of adding another car payment (the payment you will be making to the credit card company) why not just make bigger payments and pay the car off faster?
    Last edited by blarg; 07-26-2006 at 10:20 AM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  13. #42
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    yup

    in that case I wouldn't bother with the VF34.

    Get a 2.5 block from Cobb or Gruppe-S (may as well have a fresh block). They should both be good for about 450 HP. You can talk them them first and tell them you want to use it with a 18g and make sure it will handle it.

    then just run the stock turbo until you can afford turbo/injectors. You'll still have the performance of an 06, with a bunch more torque until you can swap the turbo. I have a huge problem going into debt, so I'd get as little as I possibly could especially if I was going on credit. You can't always have everything. Once you've paid off the block, you're looking at ~$2000 for deadbolt 18g/injectors/fuel pump/tune.

    It doesn't matter that you'll be "saving" money by getting it now. You have to actually HAVE them money to save it.

    personally, I'd just get another 2.0 block (minimum cost), drive it till its paid off, and buy an STi (or something else). you got what, 2 years left on your loan? instead of adding another car payment (the payment you will be making to the credit card company) why not just make bigger payments and pay the car off faster?
    Yeah, the only problem is that the cost he quoted me for another 2.0L was $3000 w50k miles...which ends up being like $500 cheaper than getting the new 2.5L

    You're right though, should just fix it and pay it off...

  14. #43
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    Yeah, the only problem is that the cost he quoted me for another 2.0L was $3000 w50k miles...which ends up being like $500 cheaper than getting the new 2.5L

    You're right though, should just fix it and pay it off...
    yeah, in that case get the built 2.5L.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  15. #44
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    you see my dilemma as well It's a done deal. All of you can proceed to say, "dude why!?"
    I told him to find a replacement engine (2.0L) and swap it out. I've been without the car now for 5 weeks...yes 5....and I need it back. It's my daily driver and I can't afford to f** with it anymore. Lesson learned. If you have a modded car as a daily driver, make sure you have enough money to fix it.

    I will get it back, pay it off, and hopefully in a few years be able to upgrade when I have less debt and make more money....

    I'll let you know my final costs for posterity's (sp?) sake. Maybe someone else can read this thread and know what it's like. lol

  16. #45
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuchs
    you see my dilemma as well It's a done deal. All of you can proceed to say, "dude why!?"
    I told him to find a replacement engine (2.0L) and swap it out. I've been without the car now for 5 weeks...yes 5....and I need it back. It's my daily driver and I can't afford to f** with it anymore. Lesson learned. If you have a modded car as a daily driver, make sure you have enough money to fix it.

    I will get it back, pay it off, and hopefully in a few years be able to upgrade when I have less debt and make more money....

    I'll let you know my final costs for posterity's (sp?) sake. Maybe someone else can read this thread and know what it's like. lol
    that's what I'd do. I also learned that if you have responsibilities, and expect your car to get you there, you just CAN'T be messing with it like that. Maybe its a by-product of getting older, but I just can't have a car that's *almost" as reliable as stock. I got a car that has an acceptable level of performance stock, and plan to keep it that way. Maybe at some point I will buy a toy to mod, but not on teh daily driver.

    today, you are a man.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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