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This is a discussion on Please Read - Bad knocking sound within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; The prices you quoted, was that installed?...

  1. #16
    Boba Fett BrianH's Avatar
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    The prices you quoted, was that installed?

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  3. #17
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    If I had to replace a motor, I'd go with Cobb's 2.5 over another stock motor. Remember, this is a short-block, so you will also need your original heads. If the heads are damaged, then you'll need to come up with new heads, which generally cost more than the motor.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
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    go f*** yourself

  4. #18
    Registered User dcpatters's Avatar
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    I have gone through two motors in the past, one in a Mustang, and the other in a Camaro. The Mustang I bought everything brand new and assembled it. I was torn between spending as little money as possible to get the car on the road, but decided to do it properly. In the end, I was grateful I did. If you have the means ($$), do your best to get a new motor or the components as a whole. You're be better off in the long run.

    What about a 2.0 Short Block from a reputable tuner shop? Althoug it's tough, try and stay away from a used short or long blocks.
    2008 Evo X GSR. Custom tuned, Works panel filter, Intercooler pipe upgrade, TBE.

  5. #19
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcpatters
    I have gone through two motors in the past, one in a Mustang, and the other in a Camaro. The Mustang I bought everything brand new and assembled it. I was torn between spending as little money as possible to get the car on the road, but decided to do it properly. In the end, I was grateful I did. If you have the means ($$), do your best to get a new motor or the components as a whole. You're be better off in the long run.

    What about a 2.0 Short Block from a reputable tuner shop? Althoug it's tough, try and stay away from a used short or long blocks.
    Most tuner shops don't build 2.0L's anymore unless you specifically ask. It costs them no more to build a 2.5L and you get more torque...Cobb makes a GREAT 2.5L tuner motor. Fully assembled, ready to go, and its reasonably priced. As long as you specify that you're going to be installing it in a car that used to be a 2.0L so they can set it up to work with your heads, it will bolt right in with no problems. You will need a re-tune, but that's about it. As long as you keep the same heads, you shouldn't even need a new ECU.

    My only experiece with motor swaps was on my parents' Taurus SHO when I was in high school.. I drove it through a puddle that looked to be about 4 inches deep, and it turned out to be about 4 feet deep. I hydrolocked the motor, and the car SANK into the "puddle". Ford put in a new short block. Pulling out of the dealership, the tranny blew (it was an automatic). They then replaced the tranny. After that the car ran like new.
    Last edited by blarg; 07-04-2006 at 10:10 AM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  6. #20
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Those prices were quoted pre-install. I was quoted another 1300 for installation...

    My problem with going to the 2.5L is merely the tune. I don't think there's anyone near me that could tune it for me (Cobb AP). After that you're looking at upgrading the turbo/injectors/fuel pump as well.

    To find a 4wheel dyno is one thing, but also someone to tune your car using the CobbAP is another. I'm curious how much it would cost to flatbed the truck to chicago from Holland to get someone to work on it...

  7. #21
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    have you gone on Cobb's web site and looked for your nearest tuner? Most tuners will give you a "limp your ass to the tuner" map that should be safe to drive for a few hundred miles.

    the most important thing is to set your boost to wastegate pressure so you're not screwing with your A:F readings too much.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  8. #22
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    I spoke with a Cobb salesman and they said they don't have base maps for such an occasion. I had asked him that exact question

    Apparenlty they don't offer remote maps. Perhaps if I called again and said...."I already have you AP, and may be interested in purchasing an engine, you think you could make me a base map?" perhaps they would be more interested in helping.

  9. #23
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    Just got off the phone with RiftsWRX (Jorge @ P&L Motorsports). Went over some options for me if the motor in fact needs replacement.

    Since the costs that I'm getting from my mechanic here seem so high I may try and order an oem STI block (EJ257). Jorge said I should be able to get one for around ~1700.00. After purchasing a gasket set 240-300 and a new water pump (not sure of cost) I should be able to drop the motor in and have it work. (Labor for installation of course, but that would be the same for either motor). For a break-in period the custom tune I currently have is sufficient as long as I don't drive in boost. Most likely I will get it running, and then run @ spring pressure to help me drive out of boost until after the break-in period and before a protune. I drive roughly 104miles a day to and from work so my break-in period wouldn't be very long. After that I would schedule a trek out to chicago for the tune.

    To keep my cost down I may also opt out of an upgraded turbo/injectors/fuel pump for now and get it tuned to current parts. This would produce less wife agro, and also keep my initial cost down a bit. I can always upgrade that stuff in the future.

    As of right now the mechanic I'm working with is waiting for someone else to come by and see if the dmg is in the top end, bu tmost likely it won't be.

    I'll keep you posted.

  10. #24
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    the "limp your ass to the tuner" map would have to come from the tuner...not from Cobb. An EJ257 is a good way to go to, if you don't mind paying for a new motor. I think either a built motor from Cobb or a new motor from Subaru would work the same...so you may just want to go with the cheaper option...don't know if a built 2.5 from cobb is much cheaper.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  11. #25
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    my motors recently started making a knock/tap noise, i took it into subaru and they replaced my timing belt tensioner..alot of the noise went away, but there is an annoying tap still present.. imgoing to take it in again if it persists...nearly 69k miles, no crazy abuse stories or anything here, just the beating i put it thru every day lol...if this turns out to be bad and subaru doesnt warranty it ( i have an extended warranty to 100k miles) im going that route... gruppes built ej257 or the cobbs 1, they are pretty much the same thing.. well see, im keeping my fingers crossed that nothings wrong because that would be a PITA
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  12. #26
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    Looks like I'll be ordering a EJ257 shortblock soon.

    Link for those that are curious.

    here

  13. #27
    Registered User WRX13oy's Avatar
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    SOCAL F4#02 OG member

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  14. #28
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    what did you end up doing with yours?

  15. #29
    Registered User WRX13oy's Avatar
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    i went on a shopping spree

    gruppe-s stage1 long block
    arp head studs
    helix 264 cams and valvetrain
    cosworth oil pump
    helix 820cc injectors
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  16. #30
    Registered User Fuchs's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about ordering Cobb's Stage 1 shortblock now. Comes with forged components and its only like $600 more than a stock EJ257.

    What are your guys thoughts?
    Last edited by Fuchs; 07-26-2006 at 09:22 AM.

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