Yep, another noob with synthetic motor oil questions
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 7 of 7

This is a discussion on Yep, another noob with synthetic motor oil questions within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Now before you get on my case, I did search and read as much as I could on the topic. ...

  1. #1
    Banned Subie do's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle WA.
    Posts
    2,595

    Yep, another noob with synthetic motor oil questions

    Now before you get on my case, I did search and read as much as I could on the topic. I've been researching for about 3 or 4 days now, but can't quite come to a conclusion.

    Ok, It's about that time for another oil change ( my second one ) and decided to go synthetic. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to technical how-to’s or what-to’s for that matter.
    So the big question is what oil should I use.
    My situation is, daily driving ( 30 miles pre day, about ) auto trans if it matters, and soon to be full cat less TBE. I don't mine the extra cost for the "good kind” if there is such thing but don't wanna cut corners when it comes to reliability. Now I do like to push my car every now and then, but when appropriate. I say this because I’m not a track rat but do like to visit the quarter mile every now and again and would like something that can put up with the best of both worlds.

    Now I've heard some things on how some oils are better than one another, but does one drastic differ from the other? And is there a difference if your running cats or catless with motor oil?

    The two main oils I have in mine are Redline and Castrol. If there is one I should seriously think about please fill me in.

    Thanks-
    Last edited by Subie do; 05-27-2006 at 10:34 PM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User WRXDriver82's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Norwich, CT
    Posts
    743
    I have an 4EAT 02 WRX and I use Royal Purple, I can't say anything bad about it. I definately noticed a difference from the regular oil. Just my .02
    NEW ENGLAND F4

    TUNERNetwork.com
    Great site for anyone in the north east.

  4. #3
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    CA, US
    Posts
    22,984
    I Support ClubWRX
    If you are concerned about warranty then you must use an API oil. To my knowledge that means you cannot use Red Line nor Royal Purple, as neither has the API symbol on it (if it does, you can use it and somebody correct me please).

    I don't know what viscosities your manual dictates, nor do I know where you are located. In any case, no, there are not huge end-of-world differences between classes of modern API motor oils. There are significant differences though, and those differences will become apparent in consumption rates and/or wear metal %s as the oil change interval becomes more extended, or even in how the oil stays in grade during the interval.

    For example, my oil (M1 0W-40) is known to thin out initially to a high or mid 30 and then thicken back up as it ages, thus beginning and ending life as a 40-weight. Other oils won't thin (example: M1 5W-40 or Mobil Devlac1 5W-40) and others will thin but not thicken back up.

    Oils also differ in base stock and additive packages. To my knowledge the only truly synthetic oils Castrol offers in the US (again, if I'm wrong somebody pitch in) are the 0W-30 and 5W-40 Syntec imports. The other Syntecs are Group III oils, not Group IV or V oils. I don't care either way, they can be olive oil as long as they perform IMO.

    Look for an API oil of the correct viscosity per the manual and having an ACEA A3 rating also (ACEA is a different testing body than API; you need API for warranty but ACEA A3 is a tougher mark for the oil to meet than API SM). Or, look for MB229.x (1>x>5) or VW 505.x or BMW Long-Life, or ACEA A1. I think ACEA A5 is the easiest ACEA mark.

    Happy shopping.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  5. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR
    If you are concerned about warranty then you must use an API oil. To my knowledge that means you cannot use Red Line nor Royal Purple, as neither has the API symbol on it (if it does, you can use it and somebody correct me please).

    I don't know what viscosities your manual dictates, nor do I know where you are located. In any case, no, there are not huge end-of-world differences between classes of modern API motor oils. There are significant differences though, and those differences will become apparent in consumption rates and/or wear metal %s as the oil change interval becomes more extended, or even in how the oil stays in grade during the interval.

    For example, my oil (M1 0W-40) is known to thin out initially to a high or mid 30 and then thicken back up as it ages, thus beginning and ending life as a 40-weight. Other oils won't thin (example: M1 5W-40 or Mobil Devlac1 5W-40) and others will thin but not thicken back up.

    Oils also differ in base stock and additive packages. To my knowledge the only truly synthetic oils Castrol offers in the US (again, if I'm wrong somebody pitch in) are the 0W-30 and 5W-40 Syntec imports. The other Syntecs are Group III oils, not Group IV or V oils. I don't care either way, they can be olive oil as long as they perform IMO.

    Look for an API oil of the correct viscosity per the manual and having an ACEA A3 rating also (ACEA is a different testing body than API; you need API for warranty but ACEA A3 is a tougher mark for the oil to meet than API SM). Or, look for MB229.x (1>x>5) or VW 505.x or BMW Long-Life, or ACEA A1. I think ACEA A5 is the easiest ACEA mark.

    Happy shopping.
    Good info on that!!! I believe that I will be going with Mobil 1 because I've heard nothing but great things about it. What should I use for my transmission/differential?

    Thanks...

  6. #5
    Banned Subie do's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle WA.
    Posts
    2,595
    How do you guys feel about Q Advanced full synthetic? (made by Quaker State)
    I see their ads on tv and in cars mags with an STI so it got me thinking.

    On the flip side, I might just go with Royal Purple like WRXDriver82 had said, because i don't really care about my warranty, but was just trying to say i wanted something that was good and reliable for my driving situation + i want something that preforms a little better than stock.

    And yes, should i use Royal Purple's transmission/differential oil as well with my 4EAT setup?

    Thanks for the help-

  7. #6
    Registered User bigd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    1,670
    I'd reccomend Mobil 1, I've used it for many many years and it works really well. For some reason I've never been impressed with Castrol, Quaker State, and a few other big names.

    I've heard fantastic things about Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple, but haven't tried any yet. I'm pretty intrigued by Royal Purple, though.
    Dave
    01 RS

  8. #7
    Registered User CAPETANN8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    maryland
    Posts
    211
    i actually tried the quaker state q advanced(10 30), i put it in about 50 miles ago, its definitely slicker to the touch and lighter feeling then mobil 1 (what i have been using), when i was pouring it in to funnel the oil actually turns into little liquid balls like liquid mercury (as it started to drip out of the container), so i dont know i put this oil in, in hopes of getting better gas mileage, so we shall see ..............

+ Reply to Thread

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself. We strongly suggest that you stay away from using aol, yahoo, msn, and hotmail accounts. Sometimes the mail server blocks the emails from our server. As a result you will not receive any notifications including the confirmation email.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •