Hi guys, I have a 2002 WRX and about two weeks ago I noticed the oil was low, so I decided to change it. I put Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage (5w-30) into it, as well as a Fram Tough Guard oil filter. Here I am a week or so later, checked my dipstick and it was about at the same level as before ; almost to the empty dot. I don't understand, I have been checking the oil every other day since I changed the oil and it was perfect in terms of quantity and quality. I check it about three days later and it still check out on quality, but not quantity. I sometimes smell something like oil or gas, however I don't know if that is normal to smell with a catback exhaust or not. Anyone know anything I don't?:shakehead:
It's not normal to smell oil or fuel or exhaust fumes in the cabin. You are likely burning the oil, i would pull the top mount and look for substantial oil in the intercooler lines, and check around the engine for leaks falling in to hot parts.
There is no way visually you can tell if oil is good or bad. It has to be done by chemical analysis, color means little to nothing.
I would send an oil analysis to Blackstone. They will be able to tell you if there is unsafe amounts of metal/bearing material in your oil. Of course if that's the case then more than likely you are looking at a blown engine. It is a possibility that your turbo is burning the oil and just needs to be replaced. I would start with blackstone.
My friend suggested this, and to be honest I might do it. The reason why I am questioning the oil problem is because the car is showing no signs of it burning besides the cabin smell. No smoke from the exhaust, and no obnoxious turbo noise/oil around the turbo.
Start there. I have never done it, but know many people that have. It will tell you a lot in your report they send back. Do that and report back your findings. Until then, I would do a compression test too. That will also help rule out the engine. If you don't have the knowledge or tools to do it yourself, most mechanics will do it. But it may cost you +/- 100 bucks. But you need to find out where that is oil is going and why.
Oil analysis and compression test are your two best options at this point.
Start there. I have never done it, but know many people that have. It will tell you a lot in your report they send back. Do that and report back your findings. Until then, I would do a compression test too. That will also help rule out the engine. If you don't have the knowledge or tools to do it yourself, most mechanics will do it. But it may cost you +/- 100 bucks. But you need to find out where that is oil is going and why.
Oil analysis and compression test if your two best options at this point.
Yes and no. If one of the cylinders is just now starting to show signs of ringland failure or something similar (like rod knock) it may take a couple thousand miles (depending how you drive it) for it to really start showing the effects. For instance, my friend has a mustang that started burning oil and knocking bad. It drove fine and still made power for a few weeks until it finally went.
Start with the compression check, also change the oil again and send it to Blackstone. it will take a couple weeks for them to get the report back to you. A compression check will be instant results.
So far I have driven the car for 2500 miles approximately with no change in performance, but you're right I should still get it measured. I will report the results back here, thanks man. I guess i will start with the compression, i will do it as soon as I get back from vacation so like a week or so.
Also remember that Subaru's, or any forced induction engine really, is bad for blow by oil. With the year/mileage of your vehicle it is possible that blow by oil could be contributing to your oil issues. So if blackstone sends back good results and your compression is fine, I would invest in a good air/oil separator. IAG makes the best one on the market IMO. They are pricey but worth it. I had bad blow by oil on my 11 wrx and bought a AOS from IAG and it literally cleaned up all blow by oil in my intercooler/intake. I would invest in one regardless of your outcome.
Thanks for the advice, but if it fails compression and the oil composition test is bad, i think I have bigger problems to deal with first haha. By the way, it is a 2002 WRX with 104,500 miles on it. But coincidentally my first reaction was a bad/clogged PCV valve.
Hey man, I hope you're still following this thread, but I haven't got around to the compression test yet, however I did order the oil analysis kit from Blackstone. I will get the compression test done as soon as I get back (I'm still away), but in the meantime I thought of another theory. Could my K&N typhoon intake be causing the bad oil performance? The reason I am asking is because the car is not tuned for it, or tuned in anyway whatsoever; it is still on the stock ECU settings. People tell me that K&N states you do not need a tune for this bolt on modification, but I am just trying to make sure?
If you have excessive blowby if you take the intercooler off the car you'll have pools of oil in the hoses. A little is normal, a lot of liquid that you can pour out is bad.
I don't know if the intake will cause a leak directly, however any power added will be more stress on parts and can cause increased wear causing leaks to appear sooner, or compound into worse issues.
Well, granted the intake does not add much power at all, but in theory you're right. However, I do not think how much oil the car went through in a mere 250 miles is normal, but I will make this one of my three to four priorities, thanks.
The wideband sensor is not going to do anything besides tell you what the afr is, the ecu can't read it. I'm wondering where he put this wideband? I guess he put a bung in the factory downpipe?
My friends and I have our suspicions that the car was once stage 2, and the p/o detuned it when he sold it to me. Back to the OP, do you think the possibility of the car running lean can contribute to blow by which would burn excessive oil? Or is that strictly limited to combustion ratios....sorry for all the questions, I am far from a master mechanic and this whole issue is very frustrating, unfortunately I think I see a new motor in the near future :unhappy:
Take the variable of engine damage out of the equation. Let's say the intake was just put on, and the damage has not occurred yet. I turn on the car for the first time. Would this first cause excessive blow by, more than Subarus are known for? Could that be where the oil is/was going in the first place?
I really appreciate all the advice and support, thanks guys. Here's an update: I got home yesterday and checked the oil it was still low. The car still ran fine. This morning I turned on the car and it ran poorly. it even misfired. A few minutes later it threw a code. This is nothing new to me since the car has been throwing codes since I got it as the p/o outfitted a GFB Lightened Crank Pulley onto it. I actually started a thread about it here:
I checked the oil and the dipstick was literally dry, not a drop of oil on it. I immediately put a quart of Mobil 1 5w-30 in it. I proceeded to investigate the block and found that the drivers side, side of the block is completely black and sooty. Anyway to tell if it is oil or not? If it is, does that spell out ringland failure or a blown headgasket? I am not finding any coolant related issues wrong with the car though....FYI, the other side of the block looks clean, it is only the drivers side. Furthermore, I got the oil analysis kit and plan to send it in after the compression test. I am going to pull the intercooler and look there tomorrow.
If you have burnt over a quart of oil that fast you've got a major leak or problem somewhere, if its not on the ground its through the cylinders. I would have a leak down test done asap
Just to be sure, is the distance between the dots on my car .5 or 1.0 quarts? I agree it is not a normal rate to lose oil, just making sure you understand, the dipstick had little oil yesterday but was dry today. Today is when I put the oil in. Also, what about the soot in the side of the block? *I'm hoping to do a wet and dry compression test tomorrow as well as pull the I/C, and I can upload pictures of what the block looks like if you would like.*
UPDATE: Checked the oil, today it went down but not too much. Jacked up the car and looked under it, oil is protruding from the valve cover gasket on the driver's side, and the line going into the drain pan is soaked. Could that be dripping down from the valve cover gasket? Oil filter has a think layer of oil on the bottom as well.
It is the driver's side valve cover gasket that appears to be leaking, and a few other places but I can not exactly pin point where. The oil line going into the drain pan is drenched in oil as well, but I don't know if that is just the seepage from the valve cover gasket. Oil filter could be a little drier too...
Make sure there is no oil around the fill spout. Also make sure that the oil on the driver's side isn't leaking from the fill tube.
Next is oil filter time. Remove it, and check and make sure you don't have e two gaskets up there. You shouldn't be leaking anything around the filter. If the gaskets are fine, then you want to check the oil cooler gasket if your car has one
With the age of your car, and the apparent leaking from the drivers side valve cover gasket, I would go ahead and order new Subaru oem valve cover gaskets and do them.
They are one the way. I'm going to change the oil and send the analysis into Blackstone while I'm at it. I'll also double check the filter to make sure there are not two gaskets up there, which there probably is since the old filter was not leaking 300 miles or so ago.
I also ordered a blackstone kit for my STi. I still highly suggest a compression test. As if the engine is going, all of this maintenance is pointless.
Very true. I brought the car to mechanic today who told me if the piston rings (ringlands) are failing, I would not notice a difference in power and a compression test would not diagnose it, but I do not see how that is possible. I do have faith in this motor since I guess it the oil issue can be narrowed down to a leak(s), but you're right the compression test still seems worth it. I brought the car to two shops today, both of which don't do compression tests apparently. I might just do it myself honestly, AutoZone will give you the tool for free.
If you are going to change the valve cover gaskets I'd order the bolt gaskets too, since those dry up and the bolts themselves will leak. This will nickel-and-dime you to death though, the costs add up.