Broken bolt!!!! NNOOOOOO!!!!!
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This is a discussion on Broken bolt!!!! NNOOOOOO!!!!! within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey guys and gals! So problem of the day! I am in the middle of doing my timing belt and ...

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    Broken bolt!!!! NNOOOOOO!!!!!

    Hey guys and gals! So problem of the day! I am in the middle of doing my timing belt and when I went to go put the new smallest pulley on and when I torqued it to 13Ib the bolt snapped on me. Probably my fault but now I have a broken bolt in the engine that is kinda important. Anyone have any good ideas? Can I replace the whole part of I cannot get it out? Here are some pictures.

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    Sorry I was having troubles uploading pictures!

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    Actually a SuperSpy. Take Care. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I don't think there's a part to replace. Is there?! I think you'll have to remove the bolt.
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    Πως έγινε με τούτο τον αιώνα και γύρισε καπάκι η ζωή
    Πως το ’φεραν η μοίρα και τα χρόνια να μην ακούσεις έναν ποιητή
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    Registered User 100plus2Vegas's Avatar
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    Take it to a welding\muffler shop. They can weld a washer to the bolt. Weld a nut to the washer. Use a liberal amount of penetrating oil and work it back and forth with a wrench till it frees up. Then remove it.
    14 sedan: Protune: 318AWHP 344ft lbs up pipe, Tial EWG, AEM intake, Cobb AP V3, 3" TBE, Avo FMIC, Turbo Smart bpv, Aem air fuel gauge,Cobb knob,Perrin Pitch Stop mount, SPT front strut tower brace, K-Sport coilovers@1.5" drop. Eibach sways, Perrin Spherical end links, Cusco subframe brace, White Line sway braces, Perrin sub frame bushings.

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    Actually a SuperSpy. Take Care. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I wonder why the bolt would snap with such low torque also. Would it be worthwhile to replace all the bolts at this stage? Or at the very least check the threads for that bolt on the block very carefully?
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Πως έγινε με τούτο τον αιώνα και γύρισε καπάκι η ζωή
    Πως το ’φεραν η μοίρα και τα χρόνια να μην ακούσεις έναν ποιητή
    Manos Eleftheriou
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Set Phasers to Stun jfisch822's Avatar
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    Was the engine hot when working on it? If so the bolt may have cross threaded in the already soft aluminum. Or if the engine was hot the threads could have been damaged when removing the bolt in the first place. Just an idea.

    Stink-Eye Mob #864

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    Set Phasers to Stun jfisch822's Avatar
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    Also if you don't have a welding shop nearby, a bolt extractor may be able to get it out if it's not too tight. Just drill a hole in the bolt and then left hand extractor will pull the bolt.

    Stink-Eye Mob #864

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    Water.....sometimes waves rqjoe's Avatar
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    Use a center-punch to tap the center of the bolt. Then drill into it. Then use an easy out. Looks like you have room to do that. If it is only 13 ft-lb, you should be able to get it out. I have heard of using a 'cold-spray' freon type can to shrink bolts once drilled immediately before inserting easy-out. Only spray the bolt though, not the surrounding engine. Conversely you could heat the surrounding engine area but that is tough to do with aluminum since it transfers the heat so quickly.

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    Thank you for all the replies guys! I don't have a good shop to take it too also would prefer not to get it towed. I want to try the easy out method but the only issue I'm having is the part that is sticking out of the engine is not a flat surface and I'm having a hard time sanding it to punch it for the drill. Does anyone have any ideas on getting it flat? Do I need to make it flat?

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    Also I'm a little nervous about my torque wrench now. It's one from harbor freight should I get a new one?

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    Set Phasers to Stun jfisch822's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLevinson1 View Post
    Thank you for all the replies guys! I don't have a good shop to take it too also would prefer not to get it towed. I want to try the easy out method but the only issue I'm having is the part that is sticking out of the engine is not a flat surface and I'm having a hard time sanding it to punch it for the drill. Does anyone have any ideas on getting it flat? Do I need to make it flat?
    That broken end of the bolt doesn't need to be flat, you just need a good punch and a hammer. Get that punch mark as close to the middle of the bolt as possible and get a good mark. This is needed so that when you start to drill into the bolt the drill bit doesn't walk across the surface, it stays in the punch mark and drills into the bolt.

    Stink-Eye Mob #864

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    "Turbos: Exhaust gases go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster" - Jeremy Clarkson

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    Ok I got 2 different punches 1 bigger and one smaller. Having a hard time getting leverage with the hammer to get a good hit. Also went and got a better torque wrench and better bolt so hopefully once I get this out it will be smooth from them on. Should I replace all the pulley bolts?

  14. #13
    voidin warranty since 05 unseen's Avatar
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    drive it to a machinist and have him (or her, in case calsarah is reading this) dye it out. or is it tap? whichever, have him pull that sucker out. just have the OEM replacement bolt ready. this happened to me once when i over torqued a manifold bolt. maybe not as detrimental as yours but still.
    stinkeye member #976

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    There's not timing belt or radiator on the car so it's not drivable. Sadly the day I decided to start my timing belt my radiator broke as well! So I'm waiting on a new radiator to come in! But good news!!!! I got it out without tapping it! I was able to get ahold of a very small part on the top of the bolt after trying to put a hole In The top and I was able to just slowly turn it out!

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    Thank you guys for the help! Should I get new bolts for all the pulleys?

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