'06 WRX TR bogging down under light accel until boost
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This is a discussion on '06 WRX TR bogging down under light accel until boost within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; This has had me scratching my head for a while now. I have searched all the forums, and have yet ...

  1. #1
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    Exclamation '06 WRX TR bogging down under light accel until boost

    This has had me scratching my head for a while now. I have searched all the forums, and have yet to find the solution.

    Car:
    Completely stock 2006 WRX TR, 5 speed manual

    Problem:
    When accelerating, either fast or slow, the car has no power or is intermittent. Almost to the point where it won't accelerate at all. Then, when it gets to 3500-4000 RPM's, it takes off. A safe bet here is that the turbo is spooled up and giving me the power I am used to. It will do this in all the gears at all speeds. Sometimes I have to get the RPMS up in the turbo area and let the clutch out in order to accelerate. Certainly not good for the clutch, but beats taking 5 seconds to get through an intersection.

    Solutions tried after reading through multiple forums:
    1. I replaced the upstream O2 sensor, but had no change.
    2. Replaced the MAF sensor, but had no change.
    3. Realized that I did not follow the manual verbatim and did not disconnect the battery when swapping the sensors. Thought it was more of a safety thing, but turns out this also resets the ECU. So I reset the ECU, and BINGO! Car runs great, and with all the power it use to have. Until about 100 miles later when it started doing it again. It starts out mild, and then it slowly gets worse over days of daily driving. Looked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, and have not found any.
    4. Reset ECU again, and it is running good again. However, my guess is that in the next 80 miles or so it will start doing it again.

    Any thoughts on this? My conclusion is that resetting the ECU clears out the bad data my car is learning from some inputs. The question is, is there a bad sensor, or a mechanical issue? And, where do I look next?

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  3. #2
    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    And there's no CEL?
    - Will
    Current Car: 2015 Honduh Civic SIgh
    Previous Cars:2014 Golf TDI, 2012 WRB WRX Hatch, 2004 RSX-S, 1998 Grand Prix GTP
    "Isn't it amazing how smart you feel when you just aren't being stupid?"

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    There is no code. Only symptoms.

  5. #4
    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    Huh.

    It certainly sounds like something is getting wacky with the a/f if it happens after a learning period like that.

    Check the MAF to make sure you didn't put it in backwards, that's pretty common.
    - Will
    Current Car: 2015 Honduh Civic SIgh
    Previous Cars:2014 Golf TDI, 2012 WRB WRX Hatch, 2004 RSX-S, 1998 Grand Prix GTP
    "Isn't it amazing how smart you feel when you just aren't being stupid?"

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    The MAF is mounted correctly. It started doing this before I ever replaced it so it can't be an orientation problem.

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    It lasted about 200 miles this time before the bogging started. It happens right between 2000 and 3000 RPMS under light or hard acceleration. Once turbo kicks in it takes off. Any ideas?

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    I now have a cobb Access Port. Do any of you professionals know what data I should log to try and diagnose this issue?

  9. #8
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    I was monitoring my boost gauge on my access port and I noticed that after resetting the ECU the car will boost to about 13 PSI. Then when it starts doing the surge/hesitation thing it will not go above 5 psi. Any thoughts?

  10. #9
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    I Support ClubWRX
    What's the DAM and fuel trims?

    When my car was bogging out I figured it was a massive intake leak because my intercooler endtanks split. Replaced with a brand new OE intercooler, about 70 miles later same thing. My car was bogging so bad it looked like a diesel rolling coal. At the same time, regardless of map version (LWG, normal, HWG) it would consitently hit 19.4lbs. Cleaning the MAF worked temporariliy. No codes except when the car started shaking violently from bogging and running rich.
    Replaced the MAF with a brand new OE and been good since.
    Have you tried swapping your MAF out with a known good one?
    Stinkeye member 520

  11. #10
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    I noticed that the DAM goes to zero rather quickly now. Along with that I noticed that my knock learning, DA and DA Learning all start going out of wack when I am on the highway just cruising and hitting bumps on the road. As soon as I hit new and smooth pavement the knock numbers start moving back to zero. As soon as I come off that pavement then they start moving again. Could it be that I have a knock sensor that is going bad? I still have no CELs.

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