Turbo whistling?
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This is a discussion on Turbo whistling? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; The vacuum line that connects the turbo to the boost solenoid fell off one day and i ended up reattaching ...

  1. #1
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    Turbo whistling?

    The vacuum line that connects the turbo to the boost solenoid fell off one day and i ended up reattaching and clamping it properly. However since that day ive been getting a whistling sound (same sound when line fell off) @ around 15 psi on partial throttle. On full throttle idk if its still happening because all i hear is my EWG. Any ideas on what the sound is? I rechecked the line recently and its on there good.

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    What's the mods? Hard to tell you exactly what sound It is over the interwebz sadly. Could be a boost leak...could be the BPV but at least we can start somewhere and offer some help
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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    I have every bolt on possible for the car. Upgraded top mount and hoses. Downpipe, uppipe, ewg, intake, bov/bpv, ewg bracket, injectors, 2010sti shortblock, catback. The turbo and turbo inlet are really the only stock things. This all started happening after the vacuum line fell off. Obviously i had a leak then and it made a whistling sound. But i have reattached the line and clamped it down. However, i still get the whistling starting at 15psi but its not as loud.

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Might still have a small leak. Check the turbo inlet, those fail near the turbo and may be hard to see if the bottom portion is sucked closed a bit so it doesn't seal around the turbo. The throttle body hose pretty much always fail so I'd recommend getting a silicone one asap
    Double check gaskets at the IC and BOV
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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    Throttle body hose is silicon. Upgraded it with the IC. I would have to check tHe inlet next to the turbo may be there might be the problem not sure tho.I know for sure it's not the blow off valve gasket because that's been sealed pretty good. plus the whistling sound is coming from the turbo side

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    When you out the vacuum like back on did it feel brittle or any small cracks in it? As pinhole as they can be?
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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    No it actually looked brand new.like it was recently replaced. I mean ive heard of the IC whistling at high speed rumor idk if thats it

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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    Well i checked my inlet and outlet hoses on the IC and both are on there. The inlet side was alittle loose and not even on properly. Hopefully my adjustment fixed that. I mean at this point if i still hear it i will have to assume its normal. I dont see any hole or punctures in any of my lines. Everything i checked is on tight or sealed. Gaskets are secure. The last resort would have to be a smoke test.

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Ya if there's nothing obvious the best way would smoke test.
    Hell I wonder if it might actually be the turbo itself. You have a video? Or get a recent one?
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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    Well i have an update on the situation, i guess. It only happens when i build boost slowly. When i rip through the gears and build boost fast there is no whistling. But if im at cruising speeds in 5th then decide to punch it thats when i hear the whistling. Its so faint you wouldnt hear it on video.

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Absolutely sure it's not the turbo? You can hear it spool even at lower boost cruising along as soon as you're around 3k other then that I know bpv can be known to make some noise
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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    Well owning a subaru certainly has shown me that nothing is ever easy. After i smoked out the leak as being my bov. I went to replace the gasket and now both bolt holes have stripped while removing the bolts. Re-threading has proved useless against the soft aluminum. So my only option at this point is to use silicon adhesive along with the new gasket a couple of worm clamps and my make-shift nut, bolt, and washer combo. The leak is currently so minute that most ppl wouldnt bother fixing it but its just so aggrivating to know something so simple can be such a pain in the ass.

  14. #13
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    Well owning a subaru certainly has shown me that nothing is ever easy. After i smoked out the leak as being my bov. I went to replace the gasket and now both bolt holes have stripped while removing the bolts. Re-threading has proved useless against the soft aluminum. So my only option at this point is to use silicon adhesive along with the new gasket a couple of worm clamps and my make-shift nut, bolt, and washer combo. The leak is currently so minute that most ppl wouldnt bother fixing it but its just so aggrivating to know something so simple can be such a pain in the ass.
    that's really unfortunate, I know how that is. one of mine are stripped and I cant removed the valve, it loosens and retightens and I believe y intermittent leak is comng from there

    but at least you found it

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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    My mechanic did a supreme temporary fix. But i still leak if i hit 15psi or more. He suggested two routes. Put on the new gasket with the black silicon and tie it down tight with the worm clamps and the nut bolt and washer combo. Or he said just get a brand new TMIC. The cost to try and get this fixed apparently can run up to $200 and it still wont guarantee a simple clean and leakless install. So im saving up some more cash right now and im going with a process west top mount. The fms tmic was good while it lasted but i heard of people with the same pprobkem as me.

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    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    My manager told me probably the smartest bit of info today and he doesn't know squat about cars. He asked me instead of trying to re-thread or get a bolt into the hole why not take the stem of the bolt, cut off the hex head, fill in the hole with some metal hardening epoxy then stick the stem part of the bolt up-side-down into the hole. and use a washer and nut to compress the BOV down onto the flange. I said John, your smart i didn't even think of that. This can probably be a better solution for stripped threads on these PW/FMS style top mounts.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. FMS tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Maddad Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. Perrin Recirc Valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. Perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

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