new car, New trouble. please help
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This is a discussion on new car, New trouble. please help within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey guys, Ill start off by saying i have searched threads but nothing i have found was very detailing. I ...

  1. #1
    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    new car, New trouble. please help

    Hey guys,
    Ill start off by saying i have searched threads but nothing i have found was very detailing.
    I just bought an 04 wrx with fmi,intake, go fast bits bov, grim speed manual boost controller, and more.
    The car was tuned by turn- in ( a respectable tuner here in cincinnati). My problem now is that i am getting a po171, bank 1 system too lean x2, and a po303 cyl 3 misfire. 2 days after buying it the cel came on for cyl 3 misfire, i put injector clener in it and erased the code, that lasted about a week. Today it came back on at a cold start and said both codes stated above. I clered both and they havent retured yet! Both times the cel came on was after a cold start, could they be linked together? I also cleaned the maf sensor and made sure the intake had no bends before the sensor, like some ebay intakes do for the wrx.
    Input is highly appreciated guys, thanks!

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    Registered User wreckingball man's Avatar
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    Link. In. My. signature.

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    Registered User wreckingball man's Avatar
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    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. I had already read the cel thread. I am in the process of resetting the ecu to relearn it's idle.

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    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Also my boost gauge is running around 14 to 18 in hg at idle but no obvious evidence of vac leak around post maf or manifold?

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Common for the coupling at the turbo/inlet to rip (can be on the bottom where it is hard to detect)

    The cold start association may be because of cold start enrichment, i.e. when it is calling for more the error is enough to make it throw the cel.

    This must be resolved before pushing the car.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  8. #7
    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Could the cold air intake be a suspect? I know they are not good for these cars. While driving the a/f gauge reads 14-15 which is alright. After resetting the ecu and letting it relearn the idle it seems to operate smoothly. In theory wouldn't running lean cause boost gauge to run -10/14 and a/f gauge run 16/17+?

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Intake should be fine if they tuned for it. If not, yes.

    It could just be that they need to tweak the tune for the cold weather.

    Numbers while "driving" aren't that meaningful, and the A/F sensor is not accurate at WOT. That is the part you really need to worry about, and your tuner needs to use a wideband to check it. At WOT, 12 would be considered lean - your tuner probably targeted something ~11. The car isn't reading the A/F at WOT, it just runs its program (the highest load learning cell does have an effect, but it is learned at those lower loads). The issue you have to worry about is if the errors it is popping at low load are something that is carrying over. If it is throwing the CEL, it is getting out of line somewhere regardless of what your readings are showing. Insufficient temperature compensation in the map, or any of the mech. issues that WBM provided a good hit list on, are serious. The amount of air you suck in by a leak in the intake before the turbo and after the maf is going to go way up as the boost goes up, so what you see when it is targeting stoich at low load is irrelevant. You have to get this fixed.

    Edit - see "open loop fueling" if you don't know what I am on about.
    Last edited by mycologist; 12-10-2013 at 03:36 PM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    The problem is idk if it was tuned for the samco intake, another thing is there is no cel indicating the lean condition. As I was driving I hooked a dtc scan tool (no cel on) and it scanned a po171 bank 1 lean. Shortly after I had cyl 3 misfire.

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    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Also in theory, if sys. 1 is lean and cyl 3 misfire couldn't that be a vac leak around cyl 3?

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    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Ok so, I was in the car looking to reset my prosport clock and when I lifted the cluster I heard a loud hiss, I then realized that a vac line in the dash to the boost gauge was disconnected. Now it runs 14.6 afr at idle and 20/21 inHg at idle. I am hitting target boost and idle has smoothed out greatly, more power too!

    Sent from my VS840 4G using Tapatalk

  13. #12
    I'm engaged to my WRX. kedonot1's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Hello, I'm here to assist you.

    Step 1:
    Check exhaust system.
    Are there holes or loose bolts on exhaust system?

    Yes: Repair exhaust system.
    No: Go to Step 2

    Step 2:
    Check air intake system.
    Are there holes, loose bolts or disconnection of hose on air intake system?

    Yes: Repair air intake system.
    No: Go to step 3.

    Step 3:
    Check purge control solenoid valve or pressure control solenoid valve.
    Is the purge control solenoid valve or pressure control solenoid valve stuck?

    Yes: Replace the purge control solenoid valve or pressure control solenoid valve.
    No: Go to step 4.

    Step 4:
    Check fuel pressure.
    Warning: Don't create any sparks or anything during this process.

    1) Release fuel pressure.
    (1) Disconnect the connector from fuel pump relay.
    (2) Start the engine and run it until it stalls.
    (3) After the engine stalls, crank it for five more seconds.
    (4) Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
    2) Connect the connector to fuel pump relay.
    3) Disconnect the fuel delivery hose from fuel filter and connect fuel pressure guage.
    4) Install the fuel filler cap.
    5) Start the engine and idle while gear position is neutral.
    6) Measure the fuel pressure while disconnecting pressure regulator vacuum hose from intake manifold.

    Warning: Before removing fuel pressure gauge, release fuel pressure.
    Note: If fuel pressure does not increase, squeeze fuel return hose 2 to 3 times, then measure fuel pressure again.

    Check: Is the fuel pressure 284-314 kPa (2.9 - 3.2 kg/cm2, 41-46psi)?

    Yes: Go to step 5.
    No: Repair the following items.

    Fuel pressure too high
    - Clogged fuel return line or bent hose.

    Fuel pressure too low
    -Improper fuel pump discharge
    -Clogged fuel supply line

    Step 5:
    Check fuel pressure.
    After connecting the pressure regulator vacuum hose, measure fuel pressure.

    Check: is the fuel pressure 206-235 kPa(2,1 - 2.4kg/cm2, 30-34psi)?

    Yes: Go to Step 6
    No: Repair the following items.

    Fuel pressure too high.
    - Faulty pressure regulator
    - Clogged fuel return line or bent hose.

    Fuel pressure too low.
    -Faulty pressure regulator
    -Improper fuel pump discharge
    -Clogged fuel supply line.

    Step 6:
    Check Engine coolant temperature sensor.

    1) Start the engine and warm-up completely.
    2)Read the data of engine coolant temperature sensor signal using a OBD-II general scan tool.

    Check: Is the engine coolant temperature 158-212 degrees Fahrenheit?

    Yes: Go to step 7.
    No: Replace the engine coolant termperature sensor.

    Step 7:
    Check pressure sensor signal.

    1) Start the engine and warm-up engine until coolant temperature is greater than (140 degrees fahrenheit).
    2) Place the select leveler in "N" or "P" range.
    3) Turn the A/C switch to OFF.
    4) Turn all accessory switches to OFF.
    5) Read the data of pressure signal using OBD-II general scan tool.

    Check: Idling: is the measured value 24.0 - 41.3 kPa (180 - 310 mmHG, 7.09 - 12.20inHg)
    Ignition ON: is the measured valve 73.3-106.6kPA (550 - 800 mmHG, 21.65 - 31.50 inHg)

    Yes: Contact SOA service center.
    Note: Inspection by DTM is required because probable cause is deterioration of multiple parts.

    No: Replace the pressure sensor.
    Need help diagnosing check engine codes? Just message me!

  14. #13
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    ^I didn't read all that, but thanks for the effort

    Glad it is sorted out OP.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  15. #14
    Registered User tsize4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    ^I didn't read all that, but thanks for the effort

    Glad it is sorted out OP.
    Thanks for the help guys! Idle is still a LITTLE rough but i will sort that out.

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