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This is a discussion on WRX burning oil?!?! within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So is a oil pressure gauge relevant, or not ??? There are pros and cons on this site. Still learning ...

  1. #16
    Registered User cogito's Avatar
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    So is a oil pressure gauge relevant, or not ??? There are pros and cons on this site. Still learning the 2.5.
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  3. #17
    Registered User Dvold's Avatar
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    Did you take the car to get serviced at the last place you had the oil changed? I ask because you said they were dismissive and couldn't tell you how much oil they drained out. If they were the ones to do the last oil change I find it highly suspicious that they can't / won't tell you what's going on with your car. Either way, I wouldn't take your WRX back to them ever again. I drive a 2011 WRX, use Mobile-1 Synthetic, and change my oil between 6 and 7K. I've never had to add oil or even had the level ever drop.

  4. #18
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogito View Post
    So is a oil pressure gauge relevant, or not ??? There are pros and cons on this site. Still learning the 2.5.
    Oil pressure gauge is a good gauge (but still doesn't tell you how MUCH oil you have). Don't bother with the sandwich adapters though. Use the galley plug that you can connect to the block under the TMIC.
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  5. #19
    Registered User Ensorcelled's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    The manual says to check at every fuel fill, and that would be a hot check. However I don't like hot checks so... I don't do them. I read stone cold on the same level surface. The only time I'll read hot is if I'm on the road for days and have been driving the car for hours each day.

    It's really crucial to keep the oil topped up.
    Well if reading stone cold will warrant me the most accurate readings then I've got no problem checking that way instead of hot. I just feel like an idiot for checking the way I have!

  6. #20
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I just find it easier and don't like hot engine bays.
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  7. #21
    Registered User wrx frog's Avatar
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    Accuracy is not really an issue, unless you want your oil level at the max level at all times... Which is not necessary at all

  8. #22
    Registered User Ensorcelled's Avatar
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    True, a hot engine bay really gets the sweat flowin. I agree having an oil level at max at all times is unnecessary, I just want to do it the right and best way is all. Either way, I'm going to switch to checking when the car is cold for "comfort" reasons...or O.C.D reasons...I don't know anymore.

  9. #23
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    The fact they didn't notice the oil not coming out and say something to you is probably because there was still significant oil in there. If it hasn't ever run low before you were probably only a bit below the dipstick, maybe a quart low or a bit more.

    Note the dipstick from high to low is only a .5 quart, not a whole one like most.

    It isn't an indication of a motor with shot rings or something either - the oil enters the turbo and then leaks into the intercooler and gets burned through the throttle body. Regularly - if you take the intercooler off right now some will drip out. This is partly why you have to check it more often. It is also inherent to subaru's engine design to some degree I think.

    Other than that, just forget about the whole thing and relax. There is oil in there now, it won't happen again, and it will be fine. I'm comfortable checking mine every 1500 miles, but you should keep a better eye on it than that for a while.
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  10. #24
    Registered User wrx frog's Avatar
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    I would suggest talking cold and hot measurements, just gives you a sense of what's going on. I found it helped for my saturn, it burned a ton of oil and when I took it for long trips it helped when I had no choice but to check at gas stations.

  11. #25
    Registered User Ensorcelled's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx frog View Post
    I would suggest talking cold and hot measurements, just gives you a sense of what's going on. I found it helped for my saturn, it burned a ton of oil and when I took it for long trips it helped when I had no choice but to check at gas stations.
    Wise advice. I would just assume when you kill the engine when stuff is at operating temps it would take longer than 5 minutes to get an accurate reading. Maybe 10 minutes? I dunno...the manual does say wait a few minutes...but not a specific amount of time.

  12. #26
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    You guys make this way too complicated.

    Here is how it works. Check it the same way each time if you are really trying to nail it to the top line. Cold is easier.

    There is another notch (at least on mine) above the full line that indicates how far it is allowed to be up when heated. It is like 1/8" higher (insignificant). Just don't ever fill it above the full line when it is cold (or hot really for that matter).

    Now if you have to check it hot, it will read higher. Who cares - we know we don't need to take oil out because it was filled correctly and it is using oil, not making extra. Here is the crucial part - if it is reading higher because it is hot but it is reading low anyway you know damn well you have to put in oil assuming it is settled.

    On trips if I'm going to check it I gas the car first then check it. If it actually needs oil (almost never happens if you check it before you leave for the trip) then let it settle a bit longer before you decide how much to add. As long as it is settled you aren't going to overfill it because it is hot and reading high. As long as it is between the holes on the dipstick it is good to go.

    When you get back home, you can go back about trying to keep it pegged to the upper line. I'll not bother and just keep it between the dipstick holes.
    Last edited by mycologist; 08-14-2013 at 08:26 PM.
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  13. #27
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ensorcelled View Post
    Wise advice. I would just assume when you kill the engine when stuff is at operating temps it would take longer than 5 minutes to get an accurate reading. Maybe 10 minutes? I dunno...the manual does say wait a few minutes...but not a specific amount of time.
    It isn't going to cool off in that time. You just need it to settle. If it is 5 min. don't push too close to the upper line, if it is 10min. I'd bring it right up to near full. If you add it in increments, let it settle another minute or two before checking each time.
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  14. #28
    Registered User Ensorcelled's Avatar
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    Thanks for the post, mycologist. You are right though, I tend to make things overly complicated heh. Anyway, I hope I haven't derailed this topic too terribly much...at the cost of great info I might add.

  15. #29
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ensorcelled View Post
    Thanks for the post, mycologist. You are right though, I tend to make things overly complicated heh. Anyway, I hope I haven't derailed this topic too terribly much...at the cost of great info I might add.

    The OP has been addressed, so we can talk about anything we want now. We're kind of free that way here.
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  16. #30
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    The OP has been addressed, so we can talk about anything we want now. We're kind of free that way here.
    You're off topic.




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