CV joint leak
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This is a discussion on CV joint leak within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; My passenger side CV joint is leaking. I'm not sure if it's the inner or outer joint that's leaking, but ...

  1. #1
    Registered User MisterNBG's Avatar
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    CV joint leak

    My passenger side CV joint is leaking. I'm not sure if it's the inner or outer joint that's leaking, but it's dripping on my Down Pipe so that leads me to believe it's the inner. So what exactly would I have to do to fix it?

    I don't want the problem to get worse so any 2cents would be appreciated !

    Thanks

    PS, It's a 2004 WRX sedan

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  3. #2
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    First you need to actually find the problem.

    If it's one of the CV joint boots you can either pull the axle and replace them both with authentic parts (except for the grease; buy aftermarket grease) or replace the axle, strongly preferring authentic parts.

    If you decide to replace the boots, post back about specifics. The OEM bands require two separate tightening tools (one "can opener" style, the other "puller" style for lack of better descriptions; if you see them you'll know what I mean). If you decide to repair the existing axle you will need two OEM boots, four OEM bands, the two tightener tools, a punch, an OEM new axle nut, torque specs for everything, and grease. If you do the whole axle search here for a link to a good source; don't buy just any axle (China...) because it can be problematic down the line. You'll still need an axle nut and torque specs for everything. Either way all info is here on the site in other threads.

    Since you don't know what the problem is there's little point in more details at this stage. Generally the above is what's needed though. Good luck.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 03-27-2013 at 12:32 PM.
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  4. #3
    Registered User MisterNBG's Avatar
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    Wow, very informative reply, I appreciate the post. I'm going under the WRX this Sunday so I'll report back with specifics, thanks !

  5. #4
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Ok good luck.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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  6. #5
    Registered User MisterNBG's Avatar
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    Okay I've finally had the chance to check and it's definitely the boot, I can stick my finger in the boot, that's how loose it is. I see the grease all over the surrounding area and the smell is coming from the grease burning off the bottom of the DP. It's the boot closest to the center of the vehicle.

    So should I just buy the new boot and go through the process of taking things apart to replace it? Also would I need to buy more grease (I can see I've lost quite a bit)

    Thanks

  7. #6
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    As above minimally two boots, four clamps, two tools, plus grease per side. Weigh alternative: replace entire axle. Shop wisely if you go the latter route; search site for good source.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  8. #7
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterNBG View Post

    So should I just buy the new boot and go through the process of taking things apart to replace it?
    Depends on how mechanically inclined you are and your available tools. You will have to drop the sway bar and the lower A arm. This means popping the ball joint.
    Quote Originally Posted by MisterNBG View Post
    Also would I need to buy more grease (I can see I've lost quite a bit)
    The answer should be obvious to this question. When repacking with new grease it is generally pretty standard practice to completely remove the old grease from the CV bearing. Also repacking the wheel bearing would be a good idea as well since it will be accessible.
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  9. #8
    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    ive already ripped the boot on my drivers front side and i got it replaced... and i actually ripped it again...stupid strut hit and ripped the boot when taking struts off. for me to get it replaced with parts and labor it was 80$ and installed in maybe 20 mins.. so for me im just going to get it replaced again...i messed up a few in my old civic and i always just fully replaced the axle..never have just changed the boot (wwhich im sure would be more cost effective) but aint nobody got time for that!
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  10. #9
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    Depends on how mechanically inclined you are and your available tools. You will have to drop the sway bar and the lower A arm. This means popping the ball joint.
    The answer should be obvious to this question. When repacking with new grease it is generally pretty standard practice to completely remove the old grease from the CV bearing. Also repacking the wheel bearing would be a good idea as well since it will be accessible.
    I remove the axle nut, mark the camber setting with paint so I preserve the alignment basics, undo the strut bolts, and remove the axle by pivoting the strut away from the car laterally. Mind the brake line.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  11. #10
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I remove the axle nut, mark the camber setting with paint so I preserve the alignment basics, undo the strut bolts, and remove the axle by pivoting the strut away from the car laterally. Mind the brake line.
    Defiantly can do it that way as well! I just find it easier to remove and re-install the axle dropping the A arm.
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  12. #11
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Good point; I just have to work around my limitations. I find the ball joint daunting. Morale stays higher if I pivot the strut. Either way though I insist on a new axle nut and set correct torque to spec, if for no other reason than to prevent a bearing issue down the road - I find wheel bearings daunting also. My theory is that crowned roadways and sidewalk sprinklers will likely have seized the axle nut by now, so I have penetrating oil and a mallet around too.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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