Secondary Air Injection System Valve Pump Issue P0410 P1410 P2431 P2433
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This is a discussion on Secondary Air Injection System Valve Pump Issue P0410 P1410 P2431 P2433 within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Own an 07 wrx wagon and as you all know drives amazing. The other day, CEL appears with the following ...

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    Secondary Air Injection System Valve Pump Issue P0410 P1410 P2431 P2433

    Own an 07 wrx wagon and as you all know drives amazing.
    The other day, CEL appears with the following codes 0410 1410 2431 2433
    All related to secondary air injection system.
    After scanning a few threads, this appears to be a recurring issue related to corroded valves.
    OK whatever. Car has only 56000 miles.

    Since I am faced with new emissions testing (not due until Oct 2014) and knowing this may be a recurring issue, should I:
    1) wait until next year to repair
    OR
    2) repair now and hope it does not re-occur?

    Any thoughts?

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Is it covered under emissions warranty?
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Is it covered under emissions warranty?
    Unfortunately not!
    Checked it out and at best only in CA.

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Try SOA direct, expressing grave concern for the environment and their reputation.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 03-17-2013 at 06:33 PM.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Try SOA direct, expressing grave concern for the environment and their reputation.
    I suppose I should try crafting a persuasive note to SOA. Can't hurt to try.
    Tks for the suggestion. My emissions testbis not due until Oct 2014.

    In the meantime is there any harm done tonthe motor if I continue to run the car with the CEL on?

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    I just finished fixing this for a friend today. Are any of those the "valve stuck open" codes?
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I honestly don't know, mine doesn't have the newer emissions style. However info believe a good letter won't hurt. It's a shame; this is basically a "new" car. Try to reach as high as possible in the company I'd say.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Spiros - you aren't going to like Subaru's answer or mine, might want to look the other way This stuff only functions for the first 30 seconds though....

    They don't cover it. It will fail again, and it is $2k to "fix". I took care of it permanently for $30. The one I did the valves were stuck open, which allows exhaust to potentially melt the hoses and release in the hood.

    If they aren't open, pull the relays and fuses and disable all of the cel codes in the map. I can help with both of those. With the CEL disabled you should pass emissions -

    If they are closed, get the blocking plates - the one for the passenger side is a BITCH@! but you can block it off at the valve instead of removing the UP to get to it (still totally sucks but doable). I can show you what all to order.

    Note the atmospheric sensor is in the driver's side one - you can't just take it all the way out. Mount it back after you deal with removing the passenger one and plug it back in without the hard line attached. Block that driver one at the engine which is easy to reach from below.
    Last edited by mycologist; 03-17-2013 at 07:15 PM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Thanks, it is good that there is an option for the OP and I am sure it will help many.

    Subaru's stance is really quite sad though. Sigh...
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Thanks, it is good that there is an option for the OP and I am sure it will help many.

    Subaru's stance is really quite sad though. Sigh...
    I think it is some BS about it being "secondary" instead of "primary". It won't be PZEV anymore maybe but still a clean running car. It basically serves the purpose of the UP cat in ours.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    Spiros - you aren't going to like Subaru's answer or mine, might want to look the other way This stuff only functions for the first 30 seconds though....

    They don't cover it. It will fail again, and it is $2k to "fix". I took care of it permanently for $30. The one I did the valves were stuck open, which allows exhaust to potentially melt the hoses and release in the hood.

    If they aren't open, pull the relays and fuses and disable all of the cel codes in the map. I can help with both of those. With the CEL disabled you should pass emissions -

    If they are closed, get the blocking plates - the one for the passenger side is a BITCH@! but you can block it off at the valve instead of removing the UP to get to it (still totally sucks but doable). I can show you what all to order.

    Note the atmospheric sensor is in the driver's side one - you can't just take it all the way out. Mount it back after you deal with removing the passenger one and plug it back in without the hard line attached. Block that driver one at the engine which is easy to reach from below.

    2k to fix? Yokes!!!!! Why so much and why will it fail again?
    1410 secondary air injection system switching valve stuck open
    2431 sec. Air inject. Sys. Air flow / pressure sensor circuit range/ performance
    2433 sec air inject. System air flow/ pressure sensor circuit high
    Are these the same codes you tackled?
    Have been driving for a few weeks with these codes and car seems to be running 'normal'
    How long can I keep 'ignoring this?

    Appreciate the help / suggestions but it sounds pretty 'labor' intensive and a PITA. Other options?
    Are other 06/07 owners having the same issue? What is the cause??

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    P0410 - Secondary Air Pump System
    P1410 - Secondary Air Pump Valve Stuck Open (doesn't indicate which)
    p2431 - Secondary Air Pump Circuit Range/Perf.
    p2433 - Secondary Air Pump Circuit High

    It sucks because there are codes for each valve but the one here didn't show which one either.

    OP - the one in bold is an unsafe condition. It won't hurt the motor, but it could allow exhaust fumes in the car.

    You need this one (I'd get the gasket) for the driver's side at the engine.
    Subaru WRX/STI/LGT Air Pump Delete - Driver Side Plate

    And this one to do the passenger side one at the valve end (you could get a gasket at the dealer) -
    Subaru WRX/STI/LGT Air Pump Delete - Optional Air Injection Valve Block-Off Plate

    I think all I used was a 10mm and 12mm, sockets and wrenches. You will need a small one (1/4" drive would be best) and a flex joint, and a gear wrench in 10mm would be really good. It is all a bit fiddly until you get to the bottom passenger side feed tube bolt, which is just a straight bitch.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil555 View Post
    2k to fix? Yokes!!!!! Why so much and why will it fail again?
    1410 secondary air injection system switching valve stuck open
    2431 sec. Air inject. Sys. Air flow / pressure sensor circuit range/ performance
    2433 sec air inject. System air flow/ pressure sensor circuit high
    Are these the same codes you tackled?
    Have been driving for a few weeks with these codes and car seems to be running 'normal'
    How long can I keep 'ignoring this?

    Appreciate the help / suggestions but it sounds pretty 'labor' intensive and a PITA. Other options?
    Are other 06/07 owners having the same issue? What is the cause??
    Exact same deal, 85K miles.

    That was the dealer quote to my friend - a couple hundred per valve, 650 for the pump, and time. They don't even troubleshoot just replace it all. It is due to water condensing in there. They are causing problems on all different makes of cars they were installed on, not just Sub.

    It isn't that much stuff, just really hard to reach the passenger one's bolts. Intercooler off and you will be able to see both right there. The driver's one just uplug, remove from the brackets, hose, remove hard line to the motor and set it all aside (hard line won't be used again). There is one secret bolt directly under the valve that I took off instead of the bracket, or you could remove that bracket instead. Mount the plate at the motor with the new gasket. Set it all aside because it has to go back in and be plugged in.

    The passenger one just persevere - it would be good to have some experience here. There are some coolant lines to the throttle body, some other hoses, and some electric stuff you have to unclip to clear the area. You can snake into the bracket bolt with a flex attachment but it isn't easy. Once it was loose I twisted the valve to twist the hardline just enough to make the much more difficult snake to the bolt underside on the hardline. I had a screwdriver up in the valve for leverage and broke it (safety glasses) but it doesn't matter it isn't going back in. Once it is out you're home free, use the gasket and the plate and the bolts and get two 6x1 locking nuts and fasten it.

    Put the Driver's side back and then all the lines you undid. Install intercooler.

    This all took ~6hr., but 4 of that was on the passenger valve.

    Remove all relays/fuses. Delete DTC from map (everything that says "secondary air" - a bunch of them spread around the list) and flash map (this takes a special cable I already had - you'll need one or you could have a "tuner" do it for pretty cheap). The tuner would be $50, the cable is ~$200. If you don't want to be able to tune your car yourself you don't really need it.

    You won't be able to see anything is missing except the relays easily - someone would have to REALLY know this particular car to fail it on visual. You will pass smog sniffer as it is already warmed up (the system is only for cold starts). With no DTC the computer scan will look peachy. Now you are done with it for good.

    Note you are bolting into aluminum holes in most places - do not pull the threads out especially at the block. Would be good to have some experience there too.
    Last edited by mycologist; 03-17-2013 at 11:13 PM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  15. #14
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I'm having a feeling of déjà vu, we've had this discussion before and I remember being saddened by SOA's stance then too.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I'm having a feeling of déjà vu, we've had this discussion before and I remember being saddened by SOA's stance then too.
    Yeah, I saw that conversation when I was searching this out. There were still a lot of loose ends after the 20 or whatever page thread at NASIOC and all the threads here. Above is the minimum solution and it took a long time to put together before even starting with a wrench. I'd rather do an UP, but only slightly. The directions say to remove the manifold and the UP to do this.
    Last edited by mycologist; 03-17-2013 at 11:14 PM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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