Troubleshooting for a week now!!! Rough Idle 2001 WRX 2.0 Turbo
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This is a discussion on Troubleshooting for a week now!!! Rough Idle 2001 WRX 2.0 Turbo within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; (2001 WRX 2.0 EJ020) I was driving home from work and came to a stop sign and the whole car ...

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    Troubleshooting for a week now!!! Rough Idle 2001 WRX 2.0 Turbo

    (2001 WRX 2.0 EJ020) I was driving home from work and came to a stop sign and the whole car started to shake!! I now have a check engine light on. I dont have a fault reader yet, it should be here in a the next day or so, so i started looking for all the possible suspects. I removed the spark plugs and the 2 on the right side facing the engine were extremely back, and the two on the right were quite clean. I replaced all four just to be safe and measured the gaps properly.... No fix. Then i started looking into the vacuum lines and hoses for any leaks and/or cracks. I checked the MAF buy unplugging it whilst the car was running. The car sputtered down to about 500rpm then jumped to 1500 rpm and still had a rough idle. No such luck. I know that the coil packs could possible be bad and that this causes the rough idle sometimes causeing a misfire. I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem or might know what going on? I also found a hose that was disconnected and couldnt find where it hooked back up to. I looked on some other threads but couldnt find a good picture to compare it to. Here are the pictures of the component the hose is attached to. Also the hose had a zip tie on the other end so i think it was attached to something at one point. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
    Mark



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    UPDATE!!

    Cleaned out the IACV still runs like crap. Any ideas? Possibly the Ignition Coils?

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    Also found out that the disconnected line that goes to the TGV is supposed to be like this.

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    That line is a vent to atmosphere. The first thing you need to do is get the code read. My guess is it will be a misfire code. If so:

    IF YOU HAVE A MISFIRE CODE ,PLEASE READ THIS!!!

    And please read this:
    ***How to Ask a Technical Question!**
    Resident Adviser @ WTF Tuning, LLC
    2002 FORESTER S
    1998 FORESTER S




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    Thanks for the info

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    OK... So got my OBD2 reader and showed a misfire on cyl 1 2 3 and 4 and 1 pending and 3 pending misfire codes.. swaped coil packs with 2 and 4 and rescanned and had a misfire on just 1 and 3 cyl. Just did a compression check and all 4 cyl were at 100 psi. I know this is low it was a cold engine and dry test and i didnt have time to do a wet test. I reset my cel's and about 15min later it came back on with cyl 1, 2, and 3 misfire codes? Any thoughts???

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    How many miles? I had to adjust my valves at 130k and I've never had a misfire since. It is doable, but a PITA! All my exhaust valves clearances were too tight. Intakes were fine.

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    It has 90K on it.

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    You should be ok then. I think the adjustment interval is 105k. Hope you can find the problem easily!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calimark View Post
    OK... So got my OBD2 reader and showed a misfire on cyl 1 2 3 and 4 and 1 pending and 3 pending misfire codes.. swaped coil packs with 2 and 4 and rescanned and had a misfire on just 1 and 3 cyl. Just did a compression check and all 4 cyl were at 100 psi. I know this is low it was a cold engine and dry test and i didnt have time to do a wet test. I reset my cel's and about 15min later it came back on with cyl 1, 2, and 3 misfire codes? Any thoughts???
    Maybe try everything on the list I made. Just trying one or two things then asking what next is the whole reason I made that list. Start with the easy stuff first.
    Resident Adviser @ WTF Tuning, LLC
    2002 FORESTER S
    1998 FORESTER S




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    I did everything on the list and saved the timing belt for last... and what do you know this was the culprit. I removed the timing belt cover and the back edge of the belt was actuall digging into the tensioner pulley. I ran out of time before work but it looks like the bolt hole that holds the pulley to the engine has striped threads. The pully is angeld on the belt slightly and if you try to tighten the bolt it starts to sung up then backs out. Also whom ever installed the belt forgot to put back on the 3 belt guides.
    I now need to find out if i need to use a helix coil or a time-sert to fix this or if it is something else. The bolt threads look good and i haven been able to look into the bolt hole to see. Would a tap and dye kit work?? And, any ideas on the size helix coil i would need?

    Thank you Donkey for the list.

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