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This is a discussion on Transmission and Engine Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 06wrx4me No I meant Mobil 1. Hey it's your money, if you wanna spend on oil ...

  1. #16
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Transmission and Engine Oil Change

    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    No I meant Mobil 1. Hey it's your money, if you wanna spend $50 on oil go for it.
    Interestingly, I read a bunch of threads with people not liking the M1 5/30. I have ran it for 91k of my 95k miles without an issue. Max consumption I have seen was .5qts over 3k miles. But I'm 500 miles away from my next oil change and inspired by the unwavering luv for the Rotella T6 everywhere on the intarw3bz I bought some to try.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

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    Registered User nbrittain28's Avatar
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    So I have a 3/8" Breaker Bar...I am assuming I will need a 1/2" adapter to take the Transmission drain and fill plugs out?
    -Nick

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Transmission and Engine Oil Change

    Quote Originally Posted by nbrittain28 View Post
    So I have a 3/8" Breaker Bar...I am assuming I will need a 1/2" adapter to take the Transmission drain and fill plugs out?
    You may. The first time I changed my teams fluid was 15k miles. The goddamned Subaru factory tech (Subaru monkey) put it in so tight, I needed an extra long extension and a 4' cheater to break it loose. It let out a snap so loud I thought I had cracked my trans case. I literally thought I was gonna break the breaker bar.

    If its been changed before, chances are you are in the clear.

    I had a similar story on the rear diff. The rear diff plugs are 1/2" square drive, thought I was gonna snap the cover or strip the plug. I literally checked to see if I had cracked the cover.
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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Transmission and Engine Oil Change

    Quote Originally Posted by nbrittain28 View Post
    So I have a 3/8" Breaker Bar...I am assuming I will need a 1/2" adapter to take the Transmission drain and fill plugs out?
    Oh I miss understood..my t70 is 1/2" drive.
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    Registered User wrx650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Oh I miss understood..my t70 is 1/2" drive.
    mine too.
    -Noah

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    Registered User nbrittain28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Oh I miss understood..my t70 is 1/2" drive.
    Oops! I just noticed I said Transmission, when I actually meant to say rear diff drain and fill plugs! Ya, I have the T70 which is a 1/2". My bad.
    Last edited by nbrittain28; 02-14-2013 at 05:13 AM.
    -Nick

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    Good news, everyone! xxxxxxxAnub1s's Avatar
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    You may end up breaking that adapter... those things get quite snug in there. Best to use an actual 1/2" drive or breaker bar to get those out.
    Cody
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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Transmission and Engine Oil Change

    Fun tip: break the fill plug on the rear diff loose first. Cause if you can't get the fill plug out, no use in draining the fluid.
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    Registered User UEDan's Avatar
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    Re: Transmission and Engine Oil Change

    Quote Originally Posted by Anub1s View Post
    You may end up breaking that adapter... those things get quite snug in there. Best to use an actual 1/2" drive or breaker bar to get those out.
    I used an adapter on my 3/8 breaker bar, worked. I was more scared of rounding the plug, it seemed slightly larger than 1/2 =/

    Posted from a fone.

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    Registered User nbrittain28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anub1s View Post
    You may end up breaking that adapter... those things get quite snug in there. Best to use an actual 1/2" drive or breaker bar to get those out.
    Thanks for the heads up!
    -Nick

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    Registered User nbrittain28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UEDan View Post
    I used an adapter on my 3/8 breaker bar, worked. I was more scared of rounding the plug, it seemed slightly larger than 1/2 =/

    Posted from a fone.
    So you used the adaptor without any issues? People have mentioned that the adaptor could get stuck or break. I might just see if I can borrow a 1/2" in the interim.
    -Nick

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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrittain28 View Post
    Hi all,

    This is my first post, so I apologize if I am being a repetitive noob! I am definitely not a gear head (yet) and I was just looking for some opinions on the fluids I decided to use. I recently bought a 2006 WRX and I have had zero issues with the car. The dealer did not have an information on the previous maintenance, so I decided I would "baseline" the car just to be safe. After reading endless posts and threads I have decided to use Redline products. I know many people prefer Royal Purple over Redline, but my friend (mechanical engineer) told me he had great results with Redline products. So, I decided to do some maintenance and wanted to see what everyone's opinion was on my setup.

    Transmission: Redline 75w90 NS
    Rear Differential: Redlline 75w90
    Engine: Redline 5w30
    Oil Filter: Subaru OEM Oil Filter

    I live in Maine, and the temperatures during the winter can drop below -10F. The research I have done led me to believe that Redline 5w30 would be the best choice for engine oil. I chose the Redline 75w90 NS for the transmission because I heard the lack of friction modificators was better to use in the transmission than other Redline fluids (Shockproof Lightweight) and that it meets the GL-5 requirement. It also seems that most people feel that the Redline 75w90 (non-NS) is better for the rear differential because it does have friction modificators. Lastly, most people feel the Subaru OEM oil filter is the best filter to use on the car (thoughts). I have a Torx 70 bit, siphon, and anti-seize. Anything else that I am missing (besides standard tools)?

    I was hoping people could provide opinions on if my proposed plan is a good idea/bad idea. I know the opinions will range, but I am looking for solid facts as to why using all Redline would be a bad idea. So far, I haven't found anything that says it is.

    Again, thanks for the patience and understanding that I am new to the world of maintaining vehicles. Either way, is it sad that I am super excited to change my fluids...?

    Thanks in advance!
    Alright, so I thought I would follow up with a review of the process and results of the products. I changed all of the fluids about a week ago, so I have had some time to drive around and get a feel for the changes.

    Change Engine Oil

    Well, if you have ever changed the engine oil in a car, this is pretty self-explanatory. I had just driven the car around for a while, so I let it cool down for about 30 minutes (it was about 30F outside). I jacked the car up and put on jack stands while it cooled down. Additionally, I properly disposed of all waste and materials (thank you Advance Auto Parts).

    Tools & Supplies
    -5 qrts of Engine Oil (Redline 5W30, took aprx. 4.2 qrts to fill)
    -Oil Filter (Subaru OEM Filter)
    -Washer for drain plug (optional, mine had zero wear and did not need replacing, zero leakage so far)
    -17mm Wrench
    -Oil Filter Wrench
    -Drain Pan
    -Funnel (optional)
    -Latex Gloves (if you don't want to get your hands dirty )

    Procedure
    1. Remove splash guard (could be considered optional if you don't mind getting oil everywhere b/c you can reach plug and filter though the guard).
    2. Remove Oil Fill Cap and Dipstick (for better flow).
    3. Use 17mm wrench to remove drain plug and drain into drain pan. I let mine drain for aprx. 15 minutes. Clean plug if dirty.
    4. Use oil filter wrench to remove oil filter. Allow oil to drain until flow ceases.
    5. Clean up drain plug hole and oil filter area.
    6. Put the drain plug back in (I applied a dab of new oil to the threads). Put some oil in the new oil filter and install (done by hand to ensure I did not over tighten). Clean up work area.
    7. Pour new oil into the oil fill (use funnel if necessary or desired). My 2006 took aprx. 4.2 quarts.
    8. Put dipstick back in and check oil levels. Mine was slightly low when cold but I checked again after running the engine for a bit and it read full exactly .

    Review
    As expected, the process of changing the oil was very easy. Some people question as to why you would even bother doing it yourself, but I still find that it is a rewarding experience knowing that you are the one maintaining your vehicle.

    There is not much to report on as far as the results from changing the oil and using Redline. I don't know many people who can immediately tell the difference from an oil change using a certain product or brand. I plan on getting an oil analysis done when I change it next and I will post the data then.

    Change Transmission Fluid
    This was actually the first time I changed transmission fluid myself (owned automatic vehicles previously). It was actually pretty easy.

    Tools & Supplies
    -4 qrts of Manual Transmission Fluid (used Redline 75W90 NS, took aprx. 3.7 qrts)
    -Torx T70 bit
    -1/2" Break Bar (probably could do it with a standard ratchet)
    -Torque Wrench
    -Funnel with tubing

    Procedure
    1. Remove transmission fluid dipstick (located on the passenger side directly beneath the inter-cooler). Some people remove the inter-cooler, but I found that the funnel with the hose worked to perfection and saved time.
    2. Use breaker bar with Torx T70 bit to remove the star-shaped drain plug and let drain into drain pan. I let mine drain until flow had ceased. Took about an hour.
    3. Clean metal shavings off of the drain plug and clean up work area.
    4. Put the drain plug back in with the torque wrench and torque to 51.6 ft/lbs.
    5. Fill transmission using funnel and hose (took aprx. 3.7 qrts).
    6. Use dipstick to check fluid level and adjust if necessary.

    Review
    Once again, the process was pretty easy. I did not have any problems with the shifting before the change, so this was just regular maintenance. When I first drove the car around the stick was really "notchy" going in and out of gear. I started to get a little worried that I had messed something up. I drove around for about 30 minutes and by the time I got back it was very smooth. As I said, it was fine before, so the improvement wasn't dramatic, but it still felt a little bit smoother.

    Change Rear Differential Fluid

    This was probably the most difficult out the the three because of a crappy hand pump and how tight the plugs were on.

    Tools & Supplies
    -1 qrt of gear fluid (used Redline 75W90 (non-NS), took aprx. 0.7 qrts)
    -1/2" Breaker Bar
    -Torque Wrench
    -Hand pump or siphon

    Procedure
    1. Use breaker bar to remove fill plug FIRST! If you remove the drain plug first and cannot remove the fill plug you are SOL. The fill plug is the plug on top.
    2. Clean off fill plug (if necessary) and set aside.
    3. Use breaker bar to remove the drain plug and let it drain into the drain pan. Mine ceased flowing after about a half hour.
    4. Clean metal shavings off of drain plug magnet and clean work area (the angle of the holes makes a mess on the differential).
    5. Put the drain plug back in and torque to 36.2 ft/lbs.
    6. Use siphon or hand pump to transfer fluid from bottle into the fill hole. I had a really crappy siphon and pump so this took me about an hour of messing around!
    7. Clean area and put the drain plug back in; torque to 36.2 ft/lbs.

    Review
    I wasn't really sure what to look/listen/feel for in terms of the rear differential, but everything seemed fine and there wasn't any leakage. Even though I have only driven around for a little while, I am pleased with the Redline products and notice (maybe just in my head) marginal improvements.
    Last edited by nbrittain28; 03-24-2013 at 05:58 AM.
    -Nick

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    Registered User Bierman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PartyPizza View Post
    He was mistaken. Mobil 1 is the kiss of death in these cars. He probably meant Rotella T6.
    I am not having any issue running M1 in my car. I did notice that when I change my oil it is very black and I change it every 3500 miles or so. I read that the mobile 1 breaks down very easy, which explains a lot. I am gong to give Rotella a shot to see what all the fuss is about.
    2011 WRX Limited - Stage1-AEM CAI

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Without actual data any evaluation of an oil as being "great" or "the kiss of death" is at best useless. If anyone is actually interested in what these products do and don't, or how quickly they break down or how well they perform. used oil analyses are the only answer.

    Only data are meaningful. Anything else is meaningless.
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