This is a discussion on Transmission and Engine Oil Change within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 06wrx4me No I meant Mobil 1. Hey it's your money, if you wanna spend on oil ...
So I have a 3/8" Breaker Bar...I am assuming I will need a 1/2" adapter to take the Transmission drain and fill plugs out?
If its been changed before, chances are you are in the clear.
I had a similar story on the rear diff. The rear diff plugs are 1/2" square drive, thought I was gonna snap the cover or strip the plug. I literally checked to see if I had cracked the cover.
2009 Spark Silver Metallic Sedan - Stage 2+
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You may end up breaking that adapter... those things get quite snug in there. Best to use an actual 1/2" drive or breaker bar to get those out.
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Change Engine Oil
Well, if you have ever changed the engine oil in a car, this is pretty self-explanatory. I had just driven the car around for a while, so I let it cool down for about 30 minutes (it was about 30F outside). I jacked the car up and put on jack stands while it cooled down. Additionally, I properly disposed of all waste and materials (thank you Advance Auto Parts).
Tools & Supplies
-5 qrts of Engine Oil (Redline 5W30, took aprx. 4.2 qrts to fill)
-Oil Filter (Subaru OEM Filter)
-Washer for drain plug (optional, mine had zero wear and did not need replacing, zero leakage so far)
-Oil Filter Wrench
-Latex Gloves (if you don't want to get your hands dirty )
1. Remove splash guard (could be considered optional if you don't mind getting oil everywhere b/c you can reach plug and filter though the guard).
2. Remove Oil Fill Cap and Dipstick (for better flow).
3. Use 17mm wrench to remove drain plug and drain into drain pan. I let mine drain for aprx. 15 minutes. Clean plug if dirty.
4. Use oil filter wrench to remove oil filter. Allow oil to drain until flow ceases.
5. Clean up drain plug hole and oil filter area.
6. Put the drain plug back in (I applied a dab of new oil to the threads). Put some oil in the new oil filter and install (done by hand to ensure I did not over tighten). Clean up work area.
7. Pour new oil into the oil fill (use funnel if necessary or desired). My 2006 took aprx. 4.2 quarts.
8. Put dipstick back in and check oil levels. Mine was slightly low when cold but I checked again after running the engine for a bit and it read full exactly .
As expected, the process of changing the oil was very easy. Some people question as to why you would even bother doing it yourself, but I still find that it is a rewarding experience knowing that you are the one maintaining your vehicle.
There is not much to report on as far as the results from changing the oil and using Redline. I don't know many people who can immediately tell the difference from an oil change using a certain product or brand. I plan on getting an oil analysis done when I change it next and I will post the data then.
Change Transmission Fluid
This was actually the first time I changed transmission fluid myself (owned automatic vehicles previously). It was actually pretty easy.
Tools & Supplies
-4 qrts of Manual Transmission Fluid (used Redline 75W90 NS, took aprx. 3.7 qrts)
-Torx T70 bit
-1/2" Break Bar (probably could do it with a standard ratchet)
-Funnel with tubing
1. Remove transmission fluid dipstick (located on the passenger side directly beneath the inter-cooler). Some people remove the inter-cooler, but I found that the funnel with the hose worked to perfection and saved time.
2. Use breaker bar with Torx T70 bit to remove the star-shaped drain plug and let drain into drain pan. I let mine drain until flow had ceased. Took about an hour.
3. Clean metal shavings off of the drain plug and clean up work area.
4. Put the drain plug back in with the torque wrench and torque to 51.6 ft/lbs.
5. Fill transmission using funnel and hose (took aprx. 3.7 qrts).
6. Use dipstick to check fluid level and adjust if necessary.
Once again, the process was pretty easy. I did not have any problems with the shifting before the change, so this was just regular maintenance. When I first drove the car around the stick was really "notchy" going in and out of gear. I started to get a little worried that I had messed something up. I drove around for about 30 minutes and by the time I got back it was very smooth. As I said, it was fine before, so the improvement wasn't dramatic, but it still felt a little bit smoother.
Change Rear Differential Fluid
This was probably the most difficult out the the three because of a crappy hand pump and how tight the plugs were on.
Tools & Supplies
-1 qrt of gear fluid (used Redline 75W90 (non-NS), took aprx. 0.7 qrts)
-1/2" Breaker Bar
-Hand pump or siphon
1. Use breaker bar to remove fill plug FIRST! If you remove the drain plug first and cannot remove the fill plug you are SOL. The fill plug is the plug on top.
2. Clean off fill plug (if necessary) and set aside.
3. Use breaker bar to remove the drain plug and let it drain into the drain pan. Mine ceased flowing after about a half hour.
4. Clean metal shavings off of drain plug magnet and clean work area (the angle of the holes makes a mess on the differential).
5. Put the drain plug back in and torque to 36.2 ft/lbs.
6. Use siphon or hand pump to transfer fluid from bottle into the fill hole. I had a really crappy siphon and pump so this took me about an hour of messing around!
7. Clean area and put the drain plug back in; torque to 36.2 ft/lbs.
I wasn't really sure what to look/listen/feel for in terms of the rear differential, but everything seemed fine and there wasn't any leakage. Even though I have only driven around for a little while, I am pleased with the Redline products and notice (maybe just in my head) marginal improvements.
Last edited by nbrittain28; 03-24-2013 at 05:58 AM.
2011 WRX Limited - Stage1-AEM CAI
Without actual data any evaluation of an oil as being "great" or "the kiss of death" is at best useless. If anyone is actually interested in what these products do and don't, or how quickly they break down or how well they perform. used oil analyses are the only answer.
Only data are meaningful. Anything else is meaningless.
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