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This is a discussion on only 10lbs of boost!help=( within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; You would need a boost leak test kit (which are super cheap and simple) and an air compressor.. remove the ...

  1. #46
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    You would need a boost leak test kit (which are super cheap and simple) and an air compressor.. remove the air filter, stick the leak tester in, pressurize 10-15psi, listen for leaks.


    It could be due to a preturbo exhaust leak as well. You should check over all the connections between the turbo and the throttlebody, as well as exhaust connections from the heads to the turbo. If you have a bad exhaust leak it might be a good idea to install new gaskets.

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    i will hold on the exhuast leak seeing as i dont have a test kit, well i do have a small one from my evo but i never used it, wonder if it fits. so i only hook it up to the air intake?? i think on my evo i had to hook it straight to the turbo..

    I will also tighten all the bolts of the exhuast and the throttlebody but it might be from the exhaust cus it sounds funny

  4. #48
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    You could have hooked it to the intake on your Evo if it fit.. the intake connects directly to the turbo, and the filter is usually the easiest place to gain access to the intake tract.


    A post turbo exhaust leak wouldn't really cause any issues rather than noise and possibly cause you to fail inspection.

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    i had the stock map and changed it to stage 2 map. feels like im pushing a little harder i will data log in about 30 mins =)

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    It really just this simple. You are hitting the target in that old map, as shown by the lack of boost error. It doesn't have to do with anything else. You need to have a map with a higher target to hit a higher boost, unless you have boost creep. Hence the stage II map. There isn't any if's and's or but's about it. It isn't anything to do with the exhaust, or a boost leak. You car computer was limiting your boost to that level.

    Given the intake and the headers, you should pony up the $150 for an e-tune.
    Last edited by mycologist; 10-24-2012 at 08:09 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    It really just this simple. You are hitting the target in that old map, as shown by the lack of boost error. It doesn't have to do with anything else. You need to have a map with a higher target to hit a higher boost, unless you have boost creep. Hence the stage II map. There isn't any if's and's or but's about it. It isn't anything to do with the exhaust, or a boost leak. You car computer was limiting your boost to that level.

    Given the intake and the headers, you should pony up the $150 for an e-tune.


    thanks for clairfying that up I thought it would be something simple of map changes. the real question is that on the accesport, the boost target says it is 17psi for the stage 2 map 91 oct.
    e-tune? sorry whats that and i know i needed a better tune

  8. #52
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scobby07 View Post
    thanks for clairfying that up I thought it would be something simple of map changes. the real question is that on the accesport, the boost target says it is 17psi for the stage 2 map 91 oct.
    e-tune? sorry whats that and i know i needed a better tune
    Therefore you weren't running the stage II map or there are other major compensations. Your log showed that the DAM was pegged, so there is no boost compensation occurring for knock. Your boost target would be lowered from the max map values at high elevation by the ECU sensing atmospheric pressure and running other compensation, but I don't think much else could explain it.

    Did you load the stage II map? If that didn't work, download a fresh copy of it as you may have a modified map (seems like a stretch). Note with the AP you may have the stage II map loaded as the base map but you still have to make sure you aren't running something else as the "on the fly" map.

    E-tuning is where you buy a map on the internet, log it, send back the logs, and then they send you an improved map. You should shop around a bit and read reviews but here is an example (they don't have your car listed that I see but you could call).

    AccessPort Maps
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  9. #53
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scobby07 View Post
    i had the stock map and changed it to stage 2 map. feels like im pushing a little harder i will data log in about 30 mins =)
    Please post the log when you get a chance. Upload it to google docs and make it public.

    I'd like to see what happened with the boost but also what is going on with that top end knock.
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    these are the new pics look like no knock after the stage 2 map?? but i wanna boost at least 16 =(

  13. #57
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    That is hard as hell to read - you should upload them to google docs and just post the link.

    You do have significant knock. Your DAM is only at .75, probably due to the reset when you loaded the new map. It has to come up to 1. However there is already significant feedback knock correction even with the DAM down where it is. That is the first thing you have to take care of because it will get worse when the DAM tries to come up, and it will get worse if you boost more. You need to entirely shift your focus on that and take care of it right away. Most likely an air leak somewhere after the MAF but before the turbo. Or it could be your intake, dirty MAF, etc. etc. Your car won't run strong (timing is just as important as boost for power, and you are losing it) and it will damage your motor.

    Your map is finally calling for higher boost, but you aren't making it. So that will need to be worked on after you fix the knocking.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    That is hard as hell to read - you should upload them to google docs and just post the link.

    You do have significant knock. Your DAM is only at .75, probably due to the reset when you loaded the new map. It has to come up to 1. However there is already significant feedback knock correction even with the DAM down where it is. That is the first thing you have to take care of because it will get worse when the DAM tries to come up, and it will get worse if you boost more. You need to entirely shift your focus on that and take care of it right away. Most likely an air leak somewhere after the MAF but before the turbo. Or it could be your intake, dirty MAF, etc. etc. Your car won't run strong (timing is just as important as boost for power, and you are losing it) and it will damage your motor.

    Your map is finally calling for higher boost, but you aren't making it. So that will need to be worked on after you fix the knocking.


    Aww man that doesn't sound good at all. So check after The maf sensor but before the turbo?=0 I have no clue what to look for maybe hoses? I have a cusco 7 piece hose kit that I haven't installed idk if that help. And I already cleaned the maf, it helped my idle but it's still a little shaky

  15. #59
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scobby07 View Post
    Aww man that doesn't sound good at all. So check after The maf sensor but before the turbo?=0 I have no clue what to look for maybe hoses? I have a cusco 7 piece hose kit that I haven't installed idk if that help. And I already cleaned the maf, it helped my idle but it's still a little shaky


    You don't want air getting in in the intake after the MAF because that will make you run leaner. I had an issue with that and it was a simple as tightening up the hose clamps. Sometimes the inlet rips at the turbo coupling, and that can be hard to tell. Or the intake itself may be screwing up your A/F.

    You need to eliminate the noise you are hearing if it is an exhaust leak or boost leak. My point before was that it didn't explain the boost level, not that it wasn't important.

    A boost leak tester (follow the directions carefully and vent the dipstick etc.) would make it easy to test the intake tract and the post turbo piping (to the intercooler and throttle body).

    It could just be bad gas.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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    guys i tuned my car from Mayem tuning in Reno and let me tell u how different my data log is now

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