Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

[0wrx5]

One of the worst possible things that could happen has happened. Unfortunately my baby (05 wrx) has a bad rod bearing at 55xxx miles. I am debating two different routes to take from here.

1. Complete rebuild with all oem parts. (new bearings, rod, turn the crank or possibly a new one depending on the condition)
2. Rebuild with performance in mind (forged pistons, acl race bearings, new rod, crank etc.)

Basically i just need some advice from anyone whos been in the same boat as me. Is it worth it to rebuild with better parts, or am i better off using oem internals. Is there anything else i should do while im in there? (oil pickup lines, timing belt waterpump etc). How much performance/safety can i get out of forged internals and better bearings? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[dolson1120]

Talk to SOA and write them a letter with your concern and see if they will hep? You got nothing to lose. If not rebuild and go big!!! I just went through this in July of this year except mine is an 09. It sucks but now it is time to part out or build a dream car**************** good luck

[Mikie13]

First, do you have any mods done? Second, do you plan on doing any mods?

I say this because if you don't plan on modding, then there is no need to spend money on all sorts of aftermarket internals. If you do plan on staying stock or relatively close to stock, you may as well find a used short block and just swap that in. Cheaper in the long run with labor, and won't have as long as down time.

[0wrx5]

Ya it definitely sucks. The worst part is i cant figure out how it happened. It has too low of mileage for a bad rod bearing. I was always on point with oil changes and checking the oil level. Part of me feels as though it was a factory default. I also think the Mobile 1 5w-30 had something to do with it being so thin. The worst part is my warranty expired on it April 23 of this year. I contacted SOA over the phone and talked to an agent. He denied my request for help with the bad bearing and when i asked to speak with the supervisor she denied me as well. Partly due to the fact that there were no records of oil changes at subaru, BUT ITS CAUSE I DO MINE OWN. it doesnt make sense i feel like ive been robbed haha. ok enough ranting

Im also worried how the car will perform after the rebuild. I know me and my buddy will do it right but just have a bad feeling about the car now.

[0wrx5]

Ya i was thinking of just swapping in a used short block but i cant find one with low miles for a good price. Pus its hard to know the history of the engine. I had a full turbo back stage two through cobb with other minor mod, ie. Samco intercooler piping, cobb intake, other small non- engine parts.
I was planning on a turbo swap until this happened with either a 16g or vf39 getting a protune and calling it a day.

[MainFrame]

It would be good if your could identify what caused the failure, otherwise you risk the same thing happening again.


As far as building it, or just swapping OEM in, that all depends on what you want to do with the car and how much money you want to throw at it. Personally, I'm far on the end of the spectrum of "while you're at it" performance upgrades with my car.. three years later, going on engine build #5, lots of $$ into it and so far no reliability to speak of. It's not exactly something I would recommend to another owner. On the other hand, if the car is not your daily driver and you have disposable income it can be a fun hobby.

[Mikie13]

Yeah its a heck of a situation to be in, understandable. It should be able to last past 55k miles especially if you've taken care of it like you say.

If you're going 16g or vf39, you don't need the built engine. It can handle those fine in stock form. However, price out parts to rebuild, and any labor, and see how that will compare to any kind of another short block option. That should give you an idea of what to pursue.

[zax]

2.1L Stroker build /thread

[MainFrame]

2.1L Stroker build /thread

^this + Turbo Tuff (or Pauter) rods + CP (or Arias) pistons [92.25mm bore] + ported heads + GSC S1 cams + GSC valvetrain (w/beehive springs) + +1mm Ferrea valves + radiused valve job + TGV deletes + rotated GTX3071r + Tial .63 A/R turbine housing + headers + KillerB oil pickup + + + + + + + ..... I think I have a problem.

[shadowpr]

^this + Turbo Tuff (or Pauter) rods + CP (or Arias) pistons [92.25mm bore] + ported heads + GSC S1 cams + GSC valvetrain (w/beehive springs) + +1mm Ferrea valves + radiused valve job + TGV deletes + rotated GTX3071r + Tial .63 A/R turbine housing + headers + KillerB oil pickup + + + + + + + ..... I think I have a problem.

wow, you listed my build (w/ future mods) almost exactly...

i have a problem too...

[DemonWRX]

Here is the way I see it.....just my opinion, take it for what you will.

If you want insane performance, really enjoy the mod hobby, or are in need of treatment like those 2 ^, get all forged internals and start adding power.

If you can price out a self rebuild with either all forged, or mostly forged internals, for about the same price (give or take the amount you are comfortable with) as a used block with low miles, go with the self rebuild. It is added insurance, even if you don't plan on modding to massive power.

If you are shooting for the cheapest and fastest solution, or plan to sell the car within a few years, just get a used OE block and call it a day. There is no reason to drop the extra time, money, love/care (and likely blood from whacking your knuckles) into the thing if you are not trying to keep the car for a long time.

[Sinister]

^this + Turbo Tuff (or Pauter) rods + CP (or Arias) pistons [92.25mm bore] + ported heads + GSC S1 cams + GSC valvetrain (w/beehive springs) + +1mm Ferrea valves + radiused valve job + TGV deletes + rotated GTX3071r + Tial .63 A/R turbine housing + headers + KillerB oil pickup + + + + + + + ..... I think I have a problem.

why stop at a gt3071? If the thing is going to be built... it doesn't make sense to have such a small rotated to me... 3076 minimum, 35r makes more sense

[Sinister]

Here's my input 0wrx5...

make sure you replace the AVCS screens... and replace the oil cooler. Then make sure you have the heads flushed. You don't want any metal jacking up the rest of the motor.

Think about just doing a used OEM block IMO. The cost of upgrading, + the cost of the transmission just isn't worth it in my opinion. To get a decent tranny you're looking around 4-5k... to build the block 7-10k. Then the cost of the turbo, upgrading fuel system, all supporting mods... you're looking at around another 5k. Then stickier tires for the power, the cost of a new clutch... the suspension to be able to hold that power.... It's a money pit. And trust me... it's not worth it.

If you don't believe me... go look in my progress thread and price everything out... and that's not everything.

[MainFrame]

why stop at a gt3071? If the thing is going to be built... it doesn't make sense to have such a small rotated to me... 3076 minimum, 35r makes more sense

For a street car, quick spool. 76mm GTX wheel chokes on the 30r turbine, so it just makes more sense to go ahead and get a GTX3576r with 272 cams and a .82 A/R turbine housing (which is what I did). Of course then you have to worry about breaking everything else drivetrain.. it's a never ending cycle of money wasting.

I would want more displacement to spool a 35r anyways..

[DemonWRX]

why stop at a gt3071? If the thing is going to be built... it doesn't make sense to have such a small rotated to me... 3076 minimum, 35r makes more sense

don't be a pansy. 35r...pisshaw. just do this:





(and yes, that is real, and supposedly street legal, google 'jet turbine vw bug')