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This is a discussion on Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by MainFrame It would be good if your could identify what caused the failure, otherwise you risk the ...

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    It would be good if your could identify what caused the failure, otherwise you risk the same thing happening again.


    As far as building it, or just swapping OEM in, that all depends on what you want to do with the car and how much money you want to throw at it. Personally, I'm far on the end of the spectrum of "while you're at it" performance upgrades with my car.. three years later, going on engine build #5, lots of $$ into it and so far no reliability to speak of. It's not exactly something I would recommend to another owner. On the other hand, if the car is not your daily driver and you have disposable income it can be a fun hobby.
    damn... build #5? Da hell you doin to that car man!?
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    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    goodluck with whatever ya do, but i hate how they denied your claim for changing your own oil...guess when i get my new subaru in a few years ill be standing with the mechanic making sure he does it right lol. hate not changing my own oil and things..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    make sure you replace the AVCS screens... and replace the oil cooler
    Kind of hard to replace things that don't exist in the first place, isn't it Kev? 2005 WRX does not have AVCS nor oil screens and no oil cooler! In fact, I don't believe any WRX has been fitted with an oil cooler from the factory.
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    Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Kind of hard to replace things that don't exist in the first place, isn't it Kev? 2005 WRX does not have AVCS nor oil screens and no oil cooler! In fact, I don't believe any WRX has been fitted with an oil cooler from the factory.
    Every car is fitted with an oil cooler. It's the round oil "warmer" that doubles as a filter base.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Every car is fitted with an oil cooler. It's the round oil "warmer" that doubles as a filter base.
    Touche. I meant a remote oil cooler.
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    Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

    Those were really expensive so almost nobody sprang for one at the time. I think they were around $800?
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Kind of hard to replace things that don't exist in the first place, isn't it Kev? 2005 WRX does not have AVCS nor oil screens and no oil cooler! In fact, I don't believe any WRX has been fitted with an oil cooler from the factory.
    Every Wrx has an oil cooler. And it needs replaced with a blown engine.

    I had forgotten he had an 05 when I said that, but the heads definitely still need flushed out
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    Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Touche. I meant a remote oil cooler.
    That's not what I meant. And the oil cooler needs replaced... Chunks get stuck in there
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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    damn... build #5? Da hell you doin to that car man!?


    What do you mean? I barely get to drive it. I've had it for probably six months total in the last three years, the rest of the time it's been in the shop.. and when I do drive it I drive like a grandma.


    First rebuild the oil pump had been installed with a HUGE amount of RTV from whoever did the initial build before I bought the car. The RTV clogged everything and caused oil starvation throughout. Second build valve guides had been bored too tight and started sticking after about 300 miles. Third build rod bolts stretched and almost spun a bearing after 700 miles. Fourth build valve guides were way over bored, way too loose (actually had it tuned and drove for about 2800 miles).. all throughout each one chewed through oil like crazy. Now it runs fine but consumes oil like a two stroke, apparently the previous builder was installing piston rings incorrectly and not honing the cylinder walls aggressively enough. Every time it came apart under warranty I felt compelled to upgrade something else "while you're at it".. now I'm waiting for the new cams to get ground so I can go through the next stage and hopefully this time around it won't burn through oil anymore. Had it ran right from day one I would probably still be sitting happily at 300whp. Come December it should be pushing well over 500whp.

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    Ya i definately need to price all the options. I dont think ill be able to handle 5 motor rebuilds ahah. Im in class but i want to check out the 2.1 stroker rebuild

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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    What do you mean? I barely get to drive it. I've had it for probably six months total in the last three years, the rest of the time it's been in the shop.. and when I do drive it I drive like a grandma.


    First rebuild the oil pump had been installed with a HUGE amount of RTV from whoever did the initial build before I bought the car. The RTV clogged everything and caused oil starvation throughout. Second build valve guides had been bored too tight and started sticking after about 300 miles. Third build rod bolts stretched and almost spun a bearing after 700 miles. Fourth build valve guides were way over bored, way too loose (actually had it tuned and drove for about 2800 miles).. all throughout each one chewed through oil like crazy. Now it runs fine but consumes oil like a two stroke, apparently the previous builder was installing piston rings incorrectly and not honing the cylinder walls aggressively enough. Every time it came apart under warranty I felt compelled to upgrade something else "while you're at it".. now I'm waiting for the new cams to get ground so I can go through the next stage and hopefully this time around it won't burn through oil anymore. Had it ran right from day one I would probably still be sitting happily at 300whp. Come December it should be pushing well over 500whp.
    oh ok... so you were just saying once you get into rebuilds you can wind up with a lot of problems? I thought maybe you were just a crazy driver.
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    Demon WRX- Ya i havent decided what exactly i want to to with the car afterwards thats the problem. If i went with all forged internals i would of course keep it and continue to build. Part of me wants to sell the car afterwards because i get this feeling of it becomming a lemon...especially after blowing up at 55xxx.If that happened i would save for a newer 06-07 wrx or 05 sti (love the blop eye tho!)
    Sinisterm- yeah that what im talking about i gotta make sure to replace everything that could potentially have brass residue (if cleaning isnt possible). yeah it sounds like a complete rebuild could be quite a bit to expensive for me. but ill remember to change the and oil cooler and flush the heads while im in there.
    Ruh Ruh- yeah its a shame SOA didnt cover this one or at least contributed some way. this will be the biggest job i have done to any of my cars but luckily i have my genious mechanic friend to help out. I figure it cant be two hard. Couple hours to pull the motor, split the block replace and reinstall, i should be able to space it out over a couple days, take my time, drink plenty of beer, and get it done right.

    thanks for all the responses and advice its appreciated. can anyone tell me how hard it really is?

  14. #28
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    oh ok... so you were just saying once you get into rebuilds you can wind up with a lot of problems? I thought maybe you were just a crazy driver.


    Yeah.. everything you change from stock can potentially be a problem. In my case the builds have been warrantied for the most part, but I can't help but continue adding more parts/work each time (creating a lot of additional cost). It's a lot of over thinking things and talking myself into deciding if it's not the "best" part possible then it isn't sufficient.


    In the vast majority of cases a built motor is not as reliable as the stock motor. Just because it's built to handle 500whp doesn't mean it will run for more than 30,000 miles even at stock power levels. There are just too many variables.. Subaru has the most experience building motors, so one built by Subaru from the factory is going to be the most reliable.

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    Blew a rod bearing!! Need some advice from experience

    ^^

    I agree. And that's why I did a Subaru OEM block with aftermarket pistons.
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    Short answer.... Fix it...
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