Weird problems with 2002 wrx

[Dreamevil]

Hey guys so I have a 2002 wrx the car had the motor rebuilt by previous owner by subaru currently has 45,xxx miles on it. My mod list is as follows I have a vf39 turbo, sti tmic, 1000cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, full catless unequal length header back exhaust system, manual boost controller, open dump waste gate and just recently put a 2006 sti transmission into her. The car was recently retuned and put down 293whp 292wtq on a mustang dyno this was a open source tune so I do not have a accessport or any real engine management or data logging system unfortunately.

Here is the issue: So I get the car tuned things running great did a few pulls to feel it felt great! Few days later I do a pull next thing I know the car makes a pop sound, I let off the gas continue driving from 2500 rpms on the car is just sputtering getting no power running like total crap. I pull over exhaust smells like straight gas, doesn't sound right either. I threw no codes though so I pull it in the driveway and get to thinking so first thought was since it smelt like gas maybe something injector related checked those seemed fine. I pulled the spark plugs they were all fuel fouled now since it was not just one and was all 4 It leads me to believe it is not the injectors pretty rare for all four to go at once, so I replaced the plugs and moved on. So next step did some reading online read some of my symptoms could be from my FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) did a test on that totally fine. Next thing I was reading is maybe a leak in the intake or intake manifold a boost leak ect...so I took the intercooler off and the Y pipe along with all the hoses seemed fine. One kind of interesting thing is the recirculating hose (I think that is what it is called) from my turbo to where the bypass valve would be was not attached to the bypass and was actually blocked off by the previous owner. I did some reading and it seems people do that when they go after market blow off valve so I assume it is like that due to the open dump waste gate? In any rate though after looking around I saw no evidence of the hoses being damaged in any way. One thing that was also odd is one of the tubes actually attached to the intercooler had a bit of oil on it but I stuck my finger into the hoses that would attach on and there was nothing. After doing this I figured since I have the intercooler off I may as well clean the throttle so I did that. Re bolted everything on started the car it appeared to be running a bit smoother but still not as it usually would and the exhaust still smelt very rich. I continued to let the car warm up rpms were at around 1,000 gave it a rev and they got stuck at 2,000 so I turn the car off. Fiddle around with the throttle to see if maybe I screwed something up turned it back on reved it some more didn't happen again. Honestly I am at a total loss I don't really know what my next step would be other then to pay someone to do a leak down test manifold and boost but I am pretty pressed for cash as I just got laid off my job, and I spent all this money on the tune.

I figured maybe you guys could help point me in the right direction or give me some ideas of things to further test, I had a buddy who has the tools to do a leak down and was supposed to come by but he keeps putting it off to the point where I am considering just shelling the money out for a shop to do it kind of reluctant though.

I really tried to do my reading and figure this out before posting but like I said I am at a loss and I am no mechanic my dad is pretty good with cars so we were going at it together and are both drawing a blank any idea's, or suggestions you guys can provide would be great!

[MainFrame]

First off, does the car have an aftermarket blow off valve, or just the stock bypass valve blocked off? Whatever the case, the ideal setup would be to recirculate the bypass valve, but if it was tuned with it blocked you will probably need to have the tune tweaked once it's hooked up correctly. If it is the OEM BPV it is probably leaking like crazy because the vacuum pulled from the intake aids in keeping the valve closed. Although none of this really gets at your problem.

Honestly, the first thing I would do is have a compression and leak down test performed. Once you rule out engine failure then we can go from there. Data logging would be beneficial in diagnosing the problem, but I would get compression and leak down tests done first. If the engine is on it's way out it would be best not to run it anymore to prevent further damage to some components that may be salvageable.

[Dreamevil]

It is on the stock BPV no aftermarket blow off valve, and I don't think he has it blocked off there is just a open hole at the bottom of the bpv...I never really took time to notice unless maybe that was plugged off and something popped out could that cause the issuse maybe?

[mycologist]

Try cleaning the MAF

The pop sound you heard - what was all that about exactly?

[MainFrame]

It is on the stock BPV no aftermarket blow off valve, and I don't think he has it blocked off there is just a open hole at the bottom of the bpv...I never really took time to notice unless maybe that was plugged off and something popped out could that cause the issuse maybe?

You could have blown an intercooler hose off. The BPV needs to be properly recirculated.. if the valve itself is blocked off then you're probably getting some major compressor surge. I find it hard to believe the tuner did not notice or say something about the OEM BPV not being installed correctly. If nothing else, you need a new tuner.

[Dreamevil]

You could have blown an intercooler hose off. The BPV needs to be properly recirculated.. if the valve itself is blocked off then you're probably getting some major compressor surge. I find it hard to believe the tuner did not notice or say something about the OEM BPV not being installed correctly. If nothing else, you need a new tuner.

Yeah I am starting to put the blame on the tune. They didn't mention it at all, and as for the intercooler hosing and all like I mentioned previously I did remove that and put it all back on and it did not seem to correct the problem. I also cleaned the MAF cleaned the throttle. Someone posted on Nasioc saying a vacuum hose popped off and they had the exact same issues that I am suffering so I am thinking of biting the bullet and getting a leak test.

Update I am thinking of ruling out a vacuum leak I bought some break cleaner sprayed every visible vacuum line no changes in idle. We did hear what almost sounded like a vacuum leak but it went away so I am not exactly sure what that is a bout. In any rate we sprayed all over and nothing.

Not really sure what to do now -__-

I am curious when someone tunes a car do they something touch things that could make it so codes are not thrown? I am considering perhaps a sensor of some sort went bad? and maybe the tune is preventing a code from being thrown? If that is possible if there a way to find these "hidden" codes.

[mycologist]

Yeah I am starting to put the blame on the tune. They didn't mention it at all, and as for the intercooler hosing and all like I mentioned previously I did remove that and put it all back on and it did not seem to correct the problem. I also cleaned the MAF cleaned the throttle. Someone posted on Nasioc saying a vacuum hose popped off and they had the exact same issues that I am suffering so I am thinking of biting the bullet and getting a leak test.

Update I am thinking of ruling out a vacuum leak I bought some break cleaner sprayed every visible vacuum line no changes in idle. We did hear what almost sounded like a vacuum leak but it went away so I am not exactly sure what that is a bout. In any rate we sprayed all over and nothing.

Not really sure what to do now -__-

I am curious when someone tunes a car do they something touch things that could make it so codes are not thrown? I am considering perhaps a sensor of some sort went bad? and maybe the tune is preventing a code from being thrown? If that is possible if there a way to find these "hidden" codes.

Was it a Cobb AP tune or opensource?

If it isn't Cobb you can look at the map and make logs with a cable. Looking at the map will tell you what has been disabled. The log would give you a ton of potentially useful information. There is a sticky on logging in the tuning forum.

[Dreamevil]

Open source tune so I have no way to see what is going on with out getting a taxtrix cable a lap top and that software.

[MainFrame]

Open source tune so I have no way to see what is going on with out getting a taxtrix cable a lap top and that software.

Heck of a lot cheaper than having to buy an AP. I got my cable new for $140 and my laptop for $230 (software is free, and most people already own a laptop).

[mycologist]

For some reason I don't see any more of the cheap Vag-Com cables that worked for early models - they were only like $20. The software is free, but you would need to borrow a laptop and set it up. Not really a big deal.

[Dreamevil]

One big issue while it'd be great to data log and see what is happening I would have no idea what I am reading haha, so I don't know how much it would actually help me in determining what is going on I am not so tech savvy. Me and my dad think we found a leak today or the general area of one we gotta do some further investigating. A kid I know who works at a local performance shop is supposed to try and swing by at some point to further check things out but if we don't figure anything out by Tuesday I have a appointment to drop it off at the mechanics.