My car siezed up when after accidentally red lineing, any advise

[ChrisHaro18]

Okay truth is i was Hot Roding my car, i was slamming gears from 1-3 perfect at 6.5, well before red line
as i was going to throw it into 4th it slipped into 2nd by mistake, the way i pulled on the stick shift
the engine redlines for a few yards before i could release the clutch but by then my temp gauge spiked my gas went to zero
and my oil light cam on, the car might be seized, i dont know if it turns i haven't checked the belts to see if they turn
but I want to assume its the ecu protecting my engine from over heating so it shut off, and wont turn back on tell further notice

[T0rque]

good thing to own up to it but its probably shot. Regardless of rev limiter cars dont take 4th gear trans drops in 2nd gear very well at all. Good luck on the rebuild.

[Mf645]

Does the starter engage and try to start the car?

[ChrisHaro18]

I was driving up a hit, accelerating pretty moderately,
i have just rebuilt the engine with a new heads, 2 core radiator
exedy racing clutch, a 16g turbo , cat less up and down pipe with a 3" exhaust from
turbo to axle back. My car is a 2002 wrx impreza, and when i accelerated i had pretty good juice to push up
the hill on the highway, i came out of a turn so i was at a dead stop, meaning i started from 1st gear, then second then third
by the time i hit third I pushed my rps to about 6 before I shifted into "fourth", when in reality it slipped into second
this was at night, so my engine over revved and died my temp exceeded its limit and reached further then the red zone
my gas gauge shot down to empty and all my lights came on, check engine, oil lite, and abs,
i disconnected the negative terminal overnight to reset my ecu, etc.
but this morning i filled my tank up to full and my gauge still reads empty
my fuel pump works fine i would think, at first i thought the engine was seized but the belts turn
and i got the car to run and idle for a little while later. when you turn the key my temp gauge shows cool
but when you take it out it shoots back up to red immediately. The fuel shows empty unless you relieve the
back pressure on the fuel line, what i did was disconnect the line to the manifold, and turened the key, this shot the fuel out
into a gas talk i had handy next to me, but as soon as you connect the line back to the manifold the engine turns, putters for a bit,
if im lucky it starts, then immediately shuts off and my fuel gauge shows empty again and my check engine light purges as the same way a
dieing light bulb would, iv applied a code reader to see what codes i get from the check engine but no matter how many times i try it reads error
every now and then the passenger side makes a hissing sound as if a fuel injector was spraying, but its a little lower towards the spark plug by the turbo
i followed the noise and it leads back to the fuel pump as well, with a slight whistle.
any advice on what it could be, i think it has something to do with the ecu or electronically, but its hard to pinpoint

[ChrisHaro18]

i posted another post about this same problem, turns out the engine still turns, but yes the starter does engage,
please read my latest post, its easier to understand

[MainFrame]

Sounds like the engine is shot. If you over heat one an ej for just a minute it will warp the heads and the block requiring practically everything to be replaced. I would rip the engine out, drop the oil pan to check for metal, then pull the heads and check them out. Over reving would mean you probably have bent valves and other serious problems. You will need to send the block and heads to a machine shop to be checked out. If they are salvageable then have them both decked, hone the block, and rebuild everything.

[ChrisHaro18]

that really sucks because i just finished rebuilding the engine from over heating, iv barely owned the car week since its been built and were still paying off the bill, are you sure because wouldnt the engine not turn on or turn, because i got the car started for a while, a good 30 sec or so

[MainFrame]

If it started up and ran fine then you may have gotten away without too much damage. If the car did not continue running smoothly, loss of power, smoke, over heating, or anything else out of the norm.. then you just did more damage by turning it over.


By the sound of your other post about simply bolting on a 16g, the engine was going to blow very shortly anyways.

[ChrisHaro18]

with the 16g i still kept it same and ran it under 12lbs, the tdo4 ran the same but not with so much pull, here shortly i was going to up my fuel and tune it at a shop with some maps for max hp but still being on the safe side of boost, as for the car the oil is fresh, coolant is fresh, everything is fresh its very unlikely for it to have over heated because iv added a few mods to cool it down twice as fast as appose to stock, the engine never smoked, never leaked etc, the only problem like i mentioned was the fuel pressure , the engine turns and runs just enough to listen to it before it dies, and nothing is knocking, the only sound it makes is the hissing right in front of the turbo in the engine, and the slight squeaking back by the gas tank

[MainFrame]

BTW, a new engine should be tuned with a base map, not reved over 4000rpm, not boosted over 10psi, and no cruise control for the first 1000 miles. This is called the break-in period. After break-in is done, then you take the car back to the tuner and have them put the final tune on the car.

[T0rque]

Oh.. To late.. Sell it for parts

[ChrisHaro18]

a figured its fine because it was a rebuilt engine with new head gaskets and machined heads,

[MainFrame]

with the 16g i still kept it same and ran it under 12lbs, the tdo4 ran the same but not with so much pull, here shortly i was going to up my fuel and tune it at a shop with some maps for max hp but still being on the safe side of boost, as for the car the oil is fresh, coolant is fresh, everything is fresh its very unlikely for it to have over heated because iv added a few mods to cool it down twice as fast as appose to stock, the engine never smoked, never leaked etc, the only problem like i mentioned was the fuel pressure , the engine turns and runs just enough to listen to it before it dies, and nothing is knocking, the only sound it makes is the hissing right in front of the turbo in the engine, and the slight squeaking back by the gas tank

A 16g (even the crappy knock off ones) will still flow more air at 12psi than a td04 would at 16psi. More air without a tune (not to even mention boost dynamics) will mean the car would run dangerously lean. Lean conditions cause excessive heat and knock. Knock will crack a ringland straight away. Or the excessive cylinder pressures could even crack a cylinder wall.

I guess the first thing to do is have a compression and leakdown test done. If it passes the compression test then you probably don't have a cracked ringland.. and if it passes compression but fails leakdown, that's indicative of bent valves.

[MainFrame]

a figured its fine because it was a rebuilt engine with new head gaskets and machined heads,

The gaskets and machine work are of no concern. Break-in is for piston rings and bearings. Any rebuild worth doing will replace all of that.

[ChrisHaro18]

what type of tune do you recommend haven't ran into any problems with the turbo side of the engine yet, just the gear slip, i can easaly bolt on my tdo4 back on tell then but my biggest concern for the moment is the engine and what i posted earlier