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This is a discussion on How to prevent ringland within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by SubiEj255 Old thread I know, but will a step or two colder plugs help prevent ring land? ...

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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiEj255 View Post
    Old thread I know, but will a step or two colder plugs help prevent ring land?

    The ring land is the portion of the piston that holds the rings in place, you need ringlands.. the only way I can think of to "prevent" ringland would be to install a rotary engine that has no pistons. =\

    But to answer your question, colder plugs won't improve your reliability.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiEj255 View Post
    Once the ecu is reflashed the warranty is practically gone correct? If i were to return it to stock, SOA can see that can't they

    That all depends on your dealership service department and whether or not they want to deny your warranty claim. Personally, I don't know of any dealership that would deny claims due to a tune (they know nothing about tuning), although I have heard of dealerships denying warranty claims simply because the car was driven. They can basically do what they want, so it my opinion that warranty claims aren't something to worry about.

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    If you're really that worried about ringland cracks and failure then there is one surefire way to prevent it from happening ..install better pistons. CP, Arias, JE ..none of those are going to fail without some serious abuse.


    I'm running 100mm CP pistons in mine.. they're a bit noisy on cold start up, but they're tough as nails.

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    Re: How to prevent ringland

    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    The ring land is the portion of the piston that holds the rings in place, you need ringlands.. the only way I can think of to "prevent" ringland would be to install a rotary engine that has no pistons. =\

    But to answer your question, colder plugs won't improve your reliability.
    Theoretically a colder plug will move the detonation threshold further from the ignition event... and detonation kills piston rings. However, realistically it won't help by a very wide margin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    If you're really that worried about ringland cracks and failure then there is one surefire way to prevent it from happening ..install better pistons. CP, Arias, JE ..none of those are going to fail without some serious abuse.


    I'm running 100mm CP pistons in mine.. they're a bit noisy on cold start up, but they're tough as nails.
    How much does a build typically cost in these cars?!

    Is that the only weak point in these cars? I e. tranny, clutch etc.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Theoretically a colder plug will move the detonation threshold further from the ignition event... and detonation kills piston rings. However, realistically it won't help by a very wide margin.

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    Yea this was my logic for asking. I guess it would hurt to put some in.
    Last edited by SubiEj255; 12-18-2012 at 05:52 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiEj255 View Post
    How much does a build typically cost in these cars?!

    Is that the only weak point in these cars? I e. tranny, clutch etc.

    That depends entirely on what kind of build.. just for pistons, I would expect somewhere around $3500 - $4000.. mine has cost close to $10k. Of course opening the engine up and changing things greatly increases the chances for something to go wrong, and I would never expect a built motor with forged pistons to last as long as OEM. Forged pistons have a greater expansion rate, so they have to be built with looser tolerances, and I would expect them to oval out the cylinder walls over time (more so than stock pistons).


    There are hundreds of weak points. Every time you strengthen one aspect by definition something else becomes the weak point. Take my engine for example, I am to the point that my cylinder walls are the weak point in my engine. Fear of cracking a cylinder wall limits my max boost to 27psi.. if (when) I finally get it sleeved, then the weak point would be my ARP headstuds that could potentially lift around 32psi (over course I would upgrade both at the same time.

    As far as drivetrain, the 5mt is always a weak point, if you have the six speed then the next weak point is usually the axles.. the clutch is a wear item that is designed to be replaced, so as long as you're running one that's properly rated to the amount of torque your car makes then I wouldn't consider it a weak point.

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    You my friend are a wall of information. I completely understand tho.
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    So people say use good oil. What brands of oil are good?
    A car is only as good as its driver

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    How to prevent ringland

    Rotella T6, Redline and many more. Don't use mobile 1

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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiEj255 View Post
    So people say use good oil. What brands of oil are good?
    Check out Bob is the Oil Guy's web site for any/all oil info.

    There's a great thing about oil opinions that makes them easy to interpret: they're useless. Only data matter. So seek out the data. Bob's site has used oil analyses posted.

    CAUTION! If you are under warranty do only and exactly as Subaru requires in your owner's manual regarding any and all maintenance, including of course oil type, API grade, and viscosity. Keep all dated receipts.
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    I'm still under warranty, but my mod list will take me out. So I'm not worried about the warranty I guess.

    Where do I find this "Bob"?
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Great thread! Signed up on account of this. Better get my profile up...

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    Quick question, is royal purple good oil to run?
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