2000 Subaru Outback Sport EJ22 I need a SubaGuru At My Wits End!
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This is a discussion on 2000 Subaru Outback Sport EJ22 I need a SubaGuru At My Wits End! within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I am a backyard mechanic. This is my first Subaru and may be my last! I bought this car back ...

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    2000 Subaru Outback Sport EJ22 I need a SubaGuru At My Wits End!

    I am a backyard mechanic. This is my first Subaru and may be my last!
    I bought this car back in January knowing that it had an overheating problem. Turned out to be the infamous HG problem. I have searched the internet extensively and performed purging procedures in every way possible.
    Subaru dealership charged my another $50.00 to say that they couldn't find a problem. (they idled it for 20 minutes, didn't drive it)

    I STILL have an overheating problem after these repairs
    :
    Rebuilt engine w/ new head gaskets, timing belt, Water pump etc. Installed by third party Subaru Specialists
    New Radiator, cap, hoses, thermostat (OEM) Subaru coolant 50/50 distilled water
    Relays checked
    Cooling fans working
    Heater core flowing


    Symptoms:

    5 minutes driving my temp goes up to 11 o'clock and beyond. The only way to bring it down to 10 o'clockish (still too high) is to turn my heater on the highest setting. Painful since it's pushing 100 degrees outside.

    Note:
    AC compressor on/off has no effect
    Problem became worse after switching to the Subaru recommended coolant and consitioner

    The only other thing going on is that my fuel gauge bottoms out at 3/4 and 1/4 full. Check engine code is "Voltage to sending unit high". I've replaced the sending unit with junk yard unit but the results are exactly the same.

    $2000 in repairs and going... Please Help
    Last edited by cadrans; 07-12-2012 at 01:44 PM.

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    OK first welcome, second sorry, third I'm going to come forth with a silly question and I hope you'll forgive it and also consider it seriously: after all that, have you burped the system fully? Are you getting circulation? If so, burp it and see what happens.

    For example:
    Overheating After Rad. & Timing Belt Replacement
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    Thank for the quick reply. I have burped it in every way possible. Even driving it up on a 45 degree hill and burping it. Drained, flushed, refilled, burped manyl times. Squeezed it at every hose and milked it like a cow. As far as circulation... I have not been able to actually see circulation looking into the radiator. I did bypass the heater core with some clear hose to watch the flow and direction. It flowed but not very fast even when i accelerated some but it was flowing. There is also no pressure buildup when removing the cap after some cooling. Normal?

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    You sure the water pump is good?
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  6. #5
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Not normal. I suspect you are not getting circulation and/or have a massive leak. Have you replaced both radiator caps?
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Both (?) radiator caps? More than one? Replaced with OEM Subaru Rad cap

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    The guys that replaced the engine insist it was a new pump (i asked them twice) but I did go to the lowest bid on the job. I'm so sick of dealing with this and I just don't have the energy to pull the water pump in 100 degree heat. I'm 54 and stiff in the knees. Is there an easy way to check this?

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Let the car cool off entirely, remove the rad cap, turn on motor, stay safe distance (fans, belts can seriously injure), and wait to see circulation when the thermostat opens. If not, suspect obstruction, thermostat, and/or water pump.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    I've done that. I have not seen what I would call good circulation passing past the Rad opening since the beginning of all this. I assumed that this must be normal with Subaru's squirrely cooling system or just that I couldn't see down far enough into the radiator. I'm wondering if the water pump has been the issue all along and that the "low Bidders" that did the engine job didn't replace it after all (grumble, grumble, grumble) Thanks for your help

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    When you burped you did have the heater on full blast right?

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    Yes, with blower fan blowing full

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    Perhaps it was a bad thermo or it was never replaced and has failed. Overheating sucks, but it can only be a few things causing you headaches. A quick way to determine if it's the thermo is take it out. If that doesn't solve the issue, it's probably your pump.

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    Registered User Obeisance's Avatar
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    I'd like to give a tangentially related opinion/guess: since you've replaced all of the components involved in the cooling system and fixed the head gasket problem, maybe the issue is in a related subsystem, like the wiring. Can you confirm that there is an overheating problem apart from the dash gauge? I assume that the temperature sensor is electrical, like a thermocouple, and requires some 'system voltage.' If there are loose connections in the car, that base voltage may be wrong so the reading would be wrong but would still change with temperature changes.

    I discovered a similar problem when I installed my subwoofer. After my installation things worked fine for a day or two, but the woofer soon went dead (the amp would not power on). After checking the voltage at my battery, I found that although the leads to the engine were giving 12+ V, the + to frame voltage was about 6V (thus my car ran fine, but the cabin electrical components were underpowered). After cleaning my frame ground my sub problem went away.

    So the suggestion/guess that I have for you is that maybe the temperature measuring system is not working properly because of an electrical issue (you had also mentioned a gas gauge problem, so this may be related).
    David - '05 WRX

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