Yeah, my '82 633 had a diagnostic panel that would even tell you if your brakes were worn out. However, it never worked when I had it....
This is a discussion on Is this normal? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Yea, We really should have an oil sensor. as soon as I got back from the dealership my dad was ...
Yea, We really should have an oil sensor. as soon as I got back from the dealership my dad was like "No idiot light came on?" I was like yea the oil light came on, but it came on for only a minute and thats while i was driving home from my friends house knowing my motor was already blown due to the noises coming from it (My bro has a Trailblazer SS and blew 2 motor in it, both while i was in the car so the sound was familiar -__-)
Yeah, my '82 633 had a diagnostic panel that would even tell you if your brakes were worn out. However, it never worked when I had it....
"From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
"The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb
speaking of worm out brakes, when my STi returns from the body shop, She needs an oil change and im 99% sure new brakes. How much does a new pair of pads usually run? Also, when I'm rolling, no gas, just rolling forward, no brakes either, I get a squeeking, i believe someone said its the wheel bearings? any ideas?
The squeaking could be because you need new pads and the sensors are scraping on the rotors. What year is your car and how many miles on it? My STI brakes only lasted 15k miles and the dealer replaced them under warranty.
Scott
Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
'13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
'04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
'77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading
do our cars have brake lining sensors?
2011 WRX Limited w/ Nav, Tach Motor Works & JR Tuned - Stage 2+ ~ 306 awhp 328 ft/lbs @ 19psi
AEM Intake, Process West TMIC, GFB Respons BOV, Invidia Q300 Turboback, Grimmspeed EBCS
AEM Wideband & Boost Gauges, SMY Cluster, SPT Short Throw Shifter/Bushing, Anarchy Motive Shift Knob, 30% Tint
Well, the squeeking began at about 5-6k miles, so long before the breaks began squeeking, and if i jerk the wheel a tad (no to change direction, just just steering wheel position) the squeeking stops for a sec, or if i get on the accelerator. And as for the brakes, Its an '11 and has 16k miles, goes in at 17k for an oil change, but its at the body shop now so while i have an extra car im gunna bring it from body shop to dealership
the last time i had the car in for service, i asked the tech to check my pads. he said they look brand new. i'm at 31k miles
2011 WRX Limited w/ Nav, Tach Motor Works & JR Tuned - Stage 2+ ~ 306 awhp 328 ft/lbs @ 19psi
AEM Intake, Process West TMIC, GFB Respons BOV, Invidia Q300 Turboback, Grimmspeed EBCS
AEM Wideband & Boost Gauges, SMY Cluster, SPT Short Throw Shifter/Bushing, Anarchy Motive Shift Knob, 30% Tint
My WRX pads had substantial life after 40 or 50K IIRC when I removed them to put performance pads on. They aren't the same as STi pads apparently.
Wheel bearings don't squeak, they kind of moan.
The squeelers on the pads that indicate worn linings will be louder/quieter on corners or acceleration depending on which pad is squeeling. This is due to the caliper (i.e. pad) vs. disk relationship changing under cornering stress or torque. Similar to what causes knock-back.
Or, your pads may be squeakers themselves (usually something to do with the shims being corroded or dirty or lack of proper brake goo stuff being applied when they were installed). Some pads themselves just squeak.
"From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
"The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb
I wish you didn't post I was starting to feel better, you only had 300 more miles than I did!!! Do you think the dealership would have checked further when they saw the oil was low? Or just changed and moved on? On a positive note I did change out the swaybars today![]()
Last edited by nepats555; 04-18-2012 at 04:01 PM.
Even if they didn't do extensivce enough checking to look for damage deep inside. They will cover anything that breaks under warantee because they didn't check it when it went in for that (there are exceptions to the warantee of course, like brakes, or the clutch, i believe)
My car was at the dealership for 5 days when the motor was blown. 2 of those days being New years and Christmas, they were very good at saying 'you weren't notified of an early oil change for break in and as a result the engine went without oil, this will be covered under warantee, but next time may not be.' (this is what the service manager told my dad because usually for them to cover an engine over warantee they require receipts for every oil change (THIS IS WHAT I HEARD, NOT SURE IF ITS A FACT OR NOT)
Call the dealer and ask if it was dangerously low. They know. On mine .5 qt. is low on the dipstick, but there is still 4.3 qt in there.
"From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
"The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb
Since it's a 2011 all of this is under warranty, including your brakes. Just take it in and let them figure it out!
Scott
Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
'13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
'04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
'77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading
Ok wait wait wait... I'll restate the title of the thread: "Is this normal?" I mean, is it normal for our cars to go through oil at all? Or is this something that is rare but not unheard of? Like Asharus said, he's never had to top it off and he's at 30k already, but burning oil at all isn't exactly my definition of "reliable."
"Reliable" to me is a lot like my last Toyota (2005 Matrix XR): "Oops I didn't get around to changing the oil at 5k and I'm now at 6500" and the car is no worse for wear.
In the wisdom of Robby Hart: "This is information that would have been useful to me yesterday..."
"Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
-Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's Dracula
from what ive seen, it's just luck of the draw. some break their cars in the same manner, but one will lose a quart within a change, some dont.
my definition of "normal" would be to go 3k to 5k miles without having to top off oil. i've had cars in the past that needed topping off at 2k or even 1k.
unfortunately, most car manufacturers state in their manuals otherwise.
also, it has been said that turbo cars tend to consume more oil than conventional engines, and i have been told by many to check oil regularly, and will continue to do so...
FYI my buddy has a 2008 A4 2.0T and he has to top off his oil every 1k...
2011 WRX Limited w/ Nav, Tach Motor Works & JR Tuned - Stage 2+ ~ 306 awhp 328 ft/lbs @ 19psi
AEM Intake, Process West TMIC, GFB Respons BOV, Invidia Q300 Turboback, Grimmspeed EBCS
AEM Wideband & Boost Gauges, SMY Cluster, SPT Short Throw Shifter/Bushing, Anarchy Motive Shift Knob, 30% Tint
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