Boost gauge only shows 7psi :/ - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Boost gauge only shows 7psi :/ within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Im goin to start with checkin the boost lines and seals then wastegate then tune...

  1. #16
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    Im goin to start with checkin the boost lines and seals then wastegate then tune

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  3. #17
    Supporting Member yamaha_rider619's Avatar
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    Might mess up your Maf readings up with a ap map.
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  4. #18
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clark1989 View Post
    Talked to my friend kevin and he suggests the wastegate is sticking open
    7psi doesn't mean the wastegate is sticking open. It means your wastegate is opening on it's own at 7psi because there isn't a boost signal keeping it closed.

    I started typing out why it's working this way... but decided to just post a link to this instead:
    CobbTuning.com - How Subaruís Factory Boost Control System Works

    Read that. It'll explain how your wastegate, and boost control solenoid work in conjunction with each other.
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  5. #19
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Basically, your tune is bad, your boost control solenoid is bad, or there's a vacuum leak.

    If your WGDC (waste gate duty cycle) is set to 0 in your tune, this can happen. If your boost control solenoid is stuck open, then this can happen, if you have a cracked vacuum hose, this can happen, or if you have a vacuum hose that has popped off, or been installed in the wrong place.. this can happen.
    Last edited by Sinister; 08-28-2011 at 01:12 PM.
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  6. #20
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    also.. regarding the raw gas smell... if your car is tuned above 7psi and is metering fuel for... let's say... 13psi of boost.. then it's getting quite a bit less air in the cylinders, and it'd cause your car to run very rich at open throttle... causing black smoke, and a raw gas smell.

    Check your boost control solenoid, and vacuum lines. That'd be my guess. The boost control solenoid you should hear clicking on and off when you're in test-mode (green connectors... search if you don't know about it). the vacuum lines you can look at the diagram that is in the article that I posted. Make sure all of the lines are connected. If they all are, then take them off one by one... plug one end, and blow in the other to make sure there isn't a crack in them. Also verify that the restrictor pill is in the hose between the compressor housing and the vacuum "T"
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  7. #21
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clark1989 View Post
    Crap i have a k&n short ram idk if it will work
    mine works just fine.
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  8. #22
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    Ok if the selenoid is bad is that a costly fix? I noticed today it was bolted where it should be

  9. #23
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    I really appreciate the help man!!

  10. #24
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clark1989 View Post
    Ok if the selenoid is bad is that a costly fix? I noticed today it was bolted where it should be
    they're not expensive, and you can install one in 30 minutes. An aftermarket 3 port will take a little longer to install, but not by much... just have to run some additional hose. If you don't get the stock one, you'll have to tune for it.
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  11. #25
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    did you just buy the car a month ago, or did you just have the engine done a month ago?
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  12. #26
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    Just bought it their is evidence that the kid had a front mount also and i ordered a new heat shield for the turbo bc he didnt put the stock one on -.- in ur opinion which should i try first?

  13. #27
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Well.. Sounds like this kid modified it and put it back to "semi-stock".

    There's a high likelyhood that there was a manual boost controller on it... and messed with the boost control system.

    Do all of this, and then check back in with me:

    1) Verify all of the hoses, and the T piece is set up like it is in the picture I've put at the bottom of this post.
    2) Verify there is a restrictor pill in line 1 in the picture
    3) Verify that the Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) is plugged in.
    4) After you do 3, put the car in test mode by plugging the green connectors under the dash together. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position, but don't attempt to start the car. Listen to the BCS to hear if it is clicking.

    Let me know the results of all of these. If there isn't anything wrong with the steps so far... then you need to get in touch with a local to verify that your wastegate duty cycle isn't set to 0... that's what tuners do when they put a manual boost controller on the car properly.

    Last edited by Sinister; 08-28-2011 at 02:51 PM.
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  14. #28
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    I cant see the pic

  15. #29
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    sorry... forgot to add the picture
    Kevin
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  16. #30
    Registered User Clark1989's Avatar
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    Thank u soo much! How do i join the blobeye syndicate hahha random ?

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