02 wrx starts than dies if i dont rapidly pump the gas pedal. - Page 2
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This is a discussion on 02 wrx starts than dies if i dont rapidly pump the gas pedal. within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by deano23 I dont have very many mods so do i really need a map? Um...yes. You do....

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by deano23 View Post
    I dont have very many mods so do i really need a map?
    Um...yes. You do.

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  3. #17
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    intake and turbo-back will require a tune since you've pretty dramatically changed airflow in/out of the engine. Its debatable that a intercooler will require a different tune if done all by itself but since you changed the intake and exhaust YES as others have stated you now need to tune the car.

    Take it up to your guy and let him at it .. you'll be pleasantly surprised with the improvement on a proper tune.
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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    OK I should clarify why I stated the engine will need a new map:

    1. Turbo back exhaust - No, does not need EM.
    2. CAI - Maybe.
    3. FMIC - Probably.
    4. Pump - If the FPR works, no, does not need EM.
    5. BOV - No, EM a moot point; however now there is an intake leak.

    No turbo was mentioned so I pictured a stocker.

    It is the combination of #2 and #3 that made me say what I said.

    Anyway, again, first the OP must burp the cooling system and then we'll see.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    OK I should clarify why I stated the engine will need a new map:

    1. Turbo back exhaust - No, does not need EM.
    2. CAI - Maybe.
    3. FMIC - Probably.
    4. Pump - If the FPR works, no, does not need EM.
    5. BOV - No, EM a moot point; however now there is an intake leak.

    No turbo was mentioned so I pictured a stocker.

    It is the combination of #2 and #3 that made me say what I said.

    Anyway, again, first the OP must burp the cooling system and then we'll see.
    If the CAI is larger in diameter then it can/will cause the car to stall out. The MAF needs to be adjusted to measure the larger volume of air. The AEM CAI is damn near a big MAF.
    Last edited by Drews; 08-24-2011 at 11:35 AM.

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    Registered User Redline730's Avatar
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    wait, noob question here. am i to understand that adding a mere intake and a larger intercooler would cause the car to run crappy? does this car have a learn down feature?

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    That depends on the specific parts selected.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redline730 View Post
    wait, noob question here. am i to understand that adding a mere intake and a larger intercooler would cause the car to run crappy? does this car have a learn down feature?
    Eh....ish. To get the most out of your parts you're going to want a tune. On the newer cars to run the parts safely you HAVE to get a tune. Specific brands are designed to work like OEM such as a COBB short ram intake. However something like an AEM CAI is much larger in diameter and can make your car run like dookie.

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    Okay so the radiator is fixed and i'm not overheating anymore.. i talked to the guy that is going to tune my car and he said that if the MAF is not in the exact location (up, down, left, right, etc..) than it will cause my car to not run like it should.. we played around with it a little and got it where i thought that it previously was and it helped alot! i still ran like crap but it ran ALOT better than before!!! So should i try to play around with it alittle more and try to find the "sweet spot" and than have him tune it? or should i just have him tune it? and if i have him tune it now will the MAF learn where it is and properly work? Again Thank you guys so much for helping me out!

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    So with just intake and an exhaust your saying a conv ap or tune should be the next buy?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    That depends on the specific parts selected.
    Quote Originally Posted by Drews View Post
    Eh....ish. To get the most out of your parts you're going to want a tune. On the newer cars to run the parts safely you HAVE to get a tune. Specific brands are designed to work like OEM such as a COBB short ram intake. However something like an AEM CAI is much larger in diameter and can make your car run like dookie.
    oooooooooooooh, ok, got it. i didn't know the AEM was so much wider, i can understand how that would make a car run crappy. I also understand tuning a vehicle for specific aftermarket parts will net you the most gain. In my LNF Cobalt (turbo) the car has a learn down feature, which means no matter what bolt ons you put on (aftermarket intercooler, intake, 3" turbo back, etc.) it won't net you any hp. the car will strive to maintain nothing more than the stock 260 hp until you have it tuned

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by deano23 View Post
    Okay so the radiator is fixed and i'm not overheating anymore..
    OK Good.

    i talked to the guy that is going to tune my car and he said that if the MAF is not in the exact location (up, down, left, right, etc..) than it will cause my car to not run like it should.. we played around with it a little and got it where i thought that it previously was and it helped alot! i still ran like crap but it ran ALOT better than before!!! So should i try to play around with it alittle more and try to find the "sweet spot" and than have him tune it? or should i just have him tune it?
    We're now getting into things that I won't be able to answer as easily, especially remotely, because you have made choices with the car that I would not have made. You did not need the intake, the FMIC, or the pump, and would have had a car running correctly with the exhaust and no tune. Now that you have installed the other parts, it seems you will need a tune -- or that the intake at least is completely unsuitable. I would consider going back to stock IC plus exhaust or if you don't want to do that and want to keep the FMIC, figure out what is wrong with the intake (the FMIC itself would have in theory been innocuous but it required the intake, and that is the source of problems now).

    So: if you insist, and if the intake actually fits the car, install it correctly (this will only be one way) and then see how the car runs with log data. Those data will tell you how/if the car needs to be tuned.

    and if i have him tune it now will the MAF learn where it is and properly work?
    That is up to him at that point, and up to the intake chosen.

    Quote Originally Posted by hachetman13 View Post
    So with just intake and an exhaust your saying a conv ap or tune should be the next buy?
    I don't know if you were asking me or not; if not, sorry: your model does not need an intake, and I would not add one. If you do add one, whether you will need a tune for it depends on which intake you chose. Your model does not need a tune for an exhaust, but if you do tune for the exhaust, you will likely see increased output compared to not tuning for the exhaust. I would only get a tune for your car for an exhaust, since I would simply not bother with an intake -- let alone an intake that would require a tune.

    In the original poster's case, it is the exhaust that is actually doing the "work" with the rest of the stuff either just costing time and money or worse still, causing problems at this point. The original car has a parts list that would be the supporting parts for a very large turbo plus injectors. Without the turbo and injectors, and a new tune, I'd not have bothered with anything on the original car except the exhaust.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 08-24-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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  14. #28
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    Ment Cobb ap but yea if it was up to me id have kept the airbox and went k&n but i got it with the perrin shorty and advance auto filter and with the cheap boost gauge that was in it I c its leaking boost when it peaks and boost spikes on wot pretty sure its aftermarket up pipe downpipe and full hks system but I'm gonna go over it again when the weekend comes maybe put some engine pics on here to figure out whats all modified
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    OK Good.



    We're now getting into things that I won't be able to answer as easily, especially remotely, because you have made choices with the car that I would not have made. You did not need the intake, the FMIC, or the pump, and would have had a car running correctly with the exhaust and no tune. Now that you have installed the other parts, it seems you will need a tune -- or that the intake at least is completely unsuitable. I would consider going back to stock IC plus exhaust or if you don't want to do that and want to keep the FMIC, figure out what is wrong with the intake (the FMIC itself would have in theory been innocuous but it required the intake, and that is the source of problems now).

    So: if you insist, and if the intake actually fits the car, install it correctly (this will only be one way) and then see how the car runs with log data. Those data will tell you how/if the car needs to be tuned.



    That is up to him at that point, and up to the intake chosen.



    I don't know if you were asking me or not; if not, sorry: your model does not need an intake, and I would not add one. If you do add one, whether you will need a tune for it depends on which intake you chose. Your model does not need a tune for an exhaust, but if you do tune for the exhaust, you will likely see increased output compared to not tuning for the exhaust. I would only get a tune for your car for an exhaust, since I would simply not bother with an intake -- let alone an intake that would require a tune.

    In the original poster's case, it is the exhaust that is actually doing the "work" with the rest of the stuff either just costing time and money or worse still, causing problems at this point. The original car has a parts list that would be the supporting parts for a very large turbo plus injectors. Without the turbo and injectors, and a new tune, I'd not have bothered with anything on the original car except the exhaust.
    All of what SD said is true. You didn't need to modify your car and it seems that the stem of all your problems are a result of aftermarket parts. But if he had his way every car would have to remain OEM by law. Punishable by death. But since it isn't and, you chose the path of modifying, here is what I would suggest: If your tuner is reputable then they will know what's best. If you don't trust him 100% then start returning the car to stock until it runs correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by hachetman13 View Post
    Ment Cobb ap but yea if it was up to me id have kept the airbox and went k&n but i got it with the perrin shorty and advance auto filter and with the cheap boost gauge that was in it I c its leaking boost when it peaks and boost spikes on wot pretty sure its aftermarket up pipe downpipe and full hks system but I'm gonna go over it again when the weekend comes maybe put some engine pics on here to figure out whats all modified
    You can always get a stock air box to put back on.

  16. #30
    Registered User hachetman13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drews View Post
    You can always get a stock air box to put back on.
    Won't help me make my goal HP
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