:/ P1410 CEL

[1speed...FAST!]

Hey everyone, my car through the code two days ago. I had the company mechanic at work remove it to see if it'd come back, and it did. I've done a bunch of research on it and have gotten to the conclusion of doing a visual inspection before doing anything. If nothing is found then the valves most likely need to be replaced. What i'm here to ask is, for the individuals that have gone through this before. What did you decide to do to fix it? Go through a dealership? DIY? Delete? Also, do our warranty's cover this. I'm at about 62k miles.

Any additional information will be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!!

[1speed...FAST!]

Bump for any information on my already stated questions and also, is it possible to clean the valves myself once pulled off. If so, what would be the proper cleaner to use? Thank you!! I'm really hoping I can just pull it apart myself and save a bunch of money.

[jd92677]

Where did you get the info that this had to do with valves? The code is for the secondary air injection system, probably a bad air pump or a leak in the air injection system. I would call Subaru about the warranty (assuming you have an extended warranty)

[Graham46]

This happened to me last year--seems to be a common problem on 06 and 07. When I got the code, I talked to my tuner and at his suggestion, I had the whole system taken out. I figured if I replaced it, it was likely to fail again, and with the cost of parts and labor it was likely to be close to $1,000 if not more. So yeah, paid the labor to have the whole system removed and then my tuner put custom stage 1 and 2 maps on my accessport that make sure all the associated engine light codes never come up again.

So far no problems and no regrets with this solution. The only issue is if I sold the car, Im guessing it would not pass inspection once I uninstalled the AP (i.e. without the custom map, the lights would come on). But Ive made up my mind that Im going to have this car for a while so that part doesnt matter to me.

Good luck and let us know what you decide!

Oh and for the person who made the warranty comment, this is an emissions issue and is not covered past 30k miles I believe. I spoke to two subaru employees on the phone and they were very rude about this.

[1speed...FAST!]

This happened to me last year--seems to be a common problem on 06 and 07. When I got the code, I talked to my tuner and at his suggestion, I had the whole system taken out. I figured if I replaced it, it was likely to fail again, and with the cost of parts and labor it was likely to be close to $1,000 if not more. So yeah, paid the labor to have the whole system removed and then my tuner put custom stage 1 and 2 maps on my accessport that make sure all the associated engine light codes never come up again.

So far no problems and no regrets with this solution. The only issue is if I sold the car, Im guessing it would not pass inspection once I uninstalled the AP (i.e. without the custom map, the lights would come on). But Ive made up my mind that Im going to have this car for a while so that part doesnt matter to me.

Good luck and let us know what you decide!

Oh and for the person who made the warranty comment, this is an emissions issue and is not covered past 30k miles I believe. I spoke to two subaru employees on the phone and they were very rude about this.

Thanks for the info. Question though if you can answer it. I'm completely stock and haven't tuned or own an AP. Can i talk to a tuner about re-flashing my ecu to remove the codes? or do i need to have an AP?

Where did you get the info that this had to do with valves? The code is for the secondary air injection system, probably a bad air pump or a leak in the air injection system. I would call Subaru about the warranty (assuming you have an extended warranty)

The secondary system on the 07 has two valves on it that open and close when the system is on or off. From researching, they are known for rusting and jamming open or closed.

[Graham46]

Sorry, I wish I could help you more, but without the AP I dont know how removing the codes can be accomplished. Its not like he just deleted them from the car... Im just running a custom map now which tells the car not to turn them on. Good luck :\

[jd92677]

Thanks for the info. Question though if you can answer it. I'm completely stock and haven't tuned or own an AP. Can i talk to a tuner about re-flashing my ecu to remove the codes? or do i need to have an AP?



The secondary system on the 07 has two valves on it that open and close when the system is on or off. From researching, they are known for rusting and jamming open or closed.

I misunderstood what you meant by valves. You can clear the code with the AP but it will reappear if the problem is not fixed. It won't disable the code. Read COBB's notes, they tell you what codes are disabled with the AP

[cramer]

my car had same problem,I'm open source tuned so I had my tuner turn the code off. the parts alone to fix are 700$

[zax]

The secondary system on the 07 has two valves on it that open and close when the system is on or off. From researching, they are known for rusting and jamming open or closed.

Pick your poison: it's either the air injection system or the catalytic convertor in the uppipe...

Subaru had to pass emissions regulations in one way or another...

[1speed...FAST!]

Just an update. I've decided that i'm going to delete the system, and since I need to get rid of the codes i figured I'd do my "stage 2" set up at the same time.

So the list will be:

1. Air Pump Delete
2. Invidia divorced wastegate high flow down pipe
3. Typhoon intake
4. AP
5. COBB heat shield
6. Prosport boost gauge

The parts should be in next week and hopefully get everything done in a couple weeks. Thanks for the information everyone! Things like an air system that is known for failing really are irritating!



One question for the individuals that have gotten pro tuned. The tuner told me that i have to put new plugs in there before they put it on the dyno. I'll be driving my car about 6 miles with the new stuff on the car without the tune. Is it really "that" important? I just replaced mine 2000 miles ago. Thanks for the additional information.

[Graham46]

Cool, youre going to love stage 2 like nobodys business. The jump from stock is pretty silly, esp torque wise. I wouldnt recommend that intake though... I think the only safe ones to run are like cobb & spt. But thats just me. Mine is stock and I have no issue with that, you can always remove the fender snorkle for a little sound.

As for the plugs, I dont know enough about that to comment, but I would imagine driving the 6 miles shouldnt be a problem as long as you just stay under 3k and out of boost? Someone else could agree or disagree with that.

[1speed...FAST!]

Cool, youre going to love stage 2 like nobodys business. The jump from stock is pretty silly, esp torque wise. I wouldnt recommend that intake though... I think the only safe ones to run are like cobb & spt. But thats just me. Mine is stock and I have no issue with that, you can always remove the fender snorkle for a little sound.

As for the plugs, I dont know enough about that to comment, but I would imagine driving the 6 miles shouldnt be a problem as long as you just stay under 3k and out of boost? Someone else could agree or disagree with that.

I'm super excited for it! Why do you say that it's not safe? Oh and i did the snorkel delete a while ago haha it's a little baby whistle. I'm thinking I'll just leave the plugs I have in there and keep it to a crawl. Unless someone else here has experience to do otherwise.

[SeattleJeremy]

Plugs with 2000miles on them are still new, no need to change them. They only said that because they don't want people rollin' in with warnout plugs.

Take that drive really slow, no boost.

[1speed...FAST!]

Plugs with 2000miles on them are still new, no need to change them. They only said that because they don't want people rollin' in with warnout plugs.

Take that drive really slow, no boost.

Ok cool. Just needed a second opinion. He was saying it'd be good to change them because the A/F ratio will be buggered up for those few miles and could make the plugs not run the "best" they could. In my mind i was thinking that it'd do that anyways when they first begin tuning it, but anyway. I'll just leave them and drive like an irritating 70 year old senile woman in a 300c srt-8 that never breaks 2500 rpms.

[Graham46]

Im sure it will be safe if you are getting tuned with that intake on, Ive just read before that Cobb is the only intake with the same exact MAF specs as factory, and if the size/diameter of that peice where the MAF is getting its readings from is changed, it can skew the readings and mess up what the engine needs. But like I said, if youre tuner is taking into consideration the size and flow of that intake, it should be right as rain. I guess what Im talking about applies more to people who just slap on a new intake and do nothing else. I may or may not evetually go with the cobb intake, but Ive also heard from people on here that the filter is slightly oiled as opposed to the dry factory filters and that can cause harmful particles to get into your engine over time. Who knows, the intake question is a heavy one!!