Curbed it! Need diagnosis help.
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This is a discussion on Curbed it! Need diagnosis help. within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I hit a curb during one of our recent storm. I missed the car that slid into the intersection, though. ...

  1. #1
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    Curbed it! Need diagnosis help.

    I hit a curb during one of our recent storm. I missed the car that slid into the intersection, though. The passenger front wheel hit square to the curb. It forced the wheel back until the tire made contact with the wheel well.

    I have replace the LCA, the half shaft and the wheel (the half shaft did not appear to be damaged, but was making a clicking noise before the accident). I test drove the car and have noises that sound like a warped rotor and a bad wheel bearing. When I turn right, the rotor noise goes away, but I continue to hear the wheel bearing noise. When I turn left, both noises increase. Both noises seem to pulsate at the same rate and in time with each other. The rotor noise does not seem to change when the brakes are applied?!!? Between 15 and 40 mph the noise is pretty loud, but above that it diminishes.

    I would assume there would be no damage to the front differential (terminology?? - I work on Jeeps) without trashing the half shaft. One thing I did notice, but forgot to correct, is the sheet metal flange on the outside end of the half shaft. The new one had a small ripple in it. I suppose the rotor noise could be coming from that hitting the back of the knuckle.

    My best scientific wild ass guess (SWAG) is I bent the hub and damaged the wheel bearing. Are those sold as a sealed unit? I did not look close enough when I had it apart. If it was just the bearing noise, I would replace the wheel bearing and be done with it. The rotor noise has me concerned. I did not see any slide pins when I took the caliper off. I am assuming they are part of the bracket. If the wheel bearing and hub were damage, I would think the rotor would rotate off plane, but would not make the pulsating sound of a warped rotor.

    Ideally, I would replace all of the components in that area, have it aligned and all would be well. Unfortunately, funds and time are both in short supply. I can have the alignment done only once. I need to get this done with as little down time as possible and on a budget that would make Ebonezer Scrooge whimper. Any input about what I may have missed or suggestions as to proving parts damaged would be greatly appreciated.

    Since the spring compressor does not fit into the wheel well, I disconnected the sway bar, held the LCA down and jacked up the hub in order to get the ball joint back in place. If anyone has a better way of doing this, please let me know.

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  3. #2
    Registered User EvoEatr's Avatar
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    I would also bet that you bent the hub, that would explain both of your brake noise and your wheel bearing noise. Also I have seen the caliper bridges bend before also. If I where you I would inspect that area. I have had to replace a few knuckle, hub, and wheel bearings for incidents like this. The way I look at it is if you hit the curb hard enough to bend the LCA than you really really wacked it...

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    Thanks for the response. I felt a shimmy today while driving it. Had someone in the passenger seat verify the noise was coming from the right side. I am pretty certain it is the bearing. Do you know if the bearing and hub are an assembly or are the bearings pressed in. I have a press, but if they are sold separate I had better get both. I have not seen a damaged hub yet. Did the ones you replaced crack or was it just a minor bend? I can't imagine it would bend enough to see it before it broke. As far as the bridge goes, everything fit together snug without having to force anything.I forgot the rotors were slightly warped before the accident. Not enough to notice under normal driving, but a hard stop from 90 and they pulsed fairly strong.

    I was doing about 25, turned the wheel and just kept going straight. Tapped the gas, put in the clutch and yanked the e brake and was only able to get about 3/4 of the corner made. I guess I got too used to the Jeep with wide tires and a locker in back. I could turn that around backwards even in 4wd. Can't get that kind of lean in the Scooby. Such is life.

  5. #4
    Good news, everyone! xxxxxxxAnub1s's Avatar
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    The bearing and hub are separate from one another, so the bearing will need to be pressed into the kuckle with the hub, good thing you have a press already.

    My previous WRX apparently had a bit of a run in with a curb from the previous owner, the hub was bent and because of the excess stress on the bearing, it took a ****. Fun times, but didn't take too long to replace, with a press that is.

    I would recommend you replace those rotors or have them turned while you're there.
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    Does anybody know if the spindle/hub assembly from an 07 sedan will fit the 02 wagon? I found one with 30k on it for less than the hub new (not including the bearing).

  7. #6
    Registered User EvoEatr's Avatar
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    Yes, the bearing needs to be pressed into the knuckle than the hub needs to be pressed in through the center of the bearing.
    Last edited by EvoEatr; 03-11-2011 at 02:40 AM.

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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    I have a knuckle, bearing, hub for sale... for the pass front wheel actually. I wish you were local, but I might be willing to ship if it's worth the hassle of shipping.
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    Sorry it took so long to reply. I have no time these days. How many miles al re on the assembly? The ones I have been looking at are between $80 and $120 after shipping. They have between 30k and 60k miles on them. Is the ball joint on yours still good?

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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    mine has 50k. I'll sell it for 50 + whatever shipping is.

    I'll have to look again, but I believe it's only the hub/bearings/lugs/dust shield. It includes the receiving part of the knuckle that the ball fits in, and that's in perfect condition, but I don't have the ball joint as a whole.
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