2004 OEM radiator is failing. How long do I have to replace? - Page 2
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This is a discussion on 2004 OEM radiator is failing. How long do I have to replace? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; pretty,nice & shiny...

  1. #16
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  3. #17
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Before the car comes apart it might be worthwhile to check and see that the threads for the bolts that mount the fans match what you've got already. Otherwise get the bolts beforehand. There are also a couple lines that connect to the rad up top toward the steering pump side, so you might check those too.
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  4. #18
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    Let me know how it goes, Bill. I remember reading that the Koyo All-Al radiators had trouble clearing the bottom bumper bracket when installed in Bugeyes. I don't know if that's the current design or if it has the same issue with the blobeyes...
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  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Before the car comes apart it might be worthwhile to check and see that the threads for the bolts that mount the fans match what you've got already. Otherwise get the bolts beforehand. There are also a couple lines that connect to the rad up top toward the steering pump side, so you might check those too.
    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Let me know how it goes, Bill. I remember reading that the Koyo All-Al radiators had trouble clearing the bottom bumper bracket when installed in Bugeyes. I don't know if that's the current design or if it has the same issue with the blobeyes...
    Thanks for the heads up guys.

    Update: OEM fan screws - sheet metal / plastic threads. Koyo - standard threads. I'm off to get the right bolts.
    Last edited by Sasquatch; 02-25-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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    Installed the Koyo today. The fit was mostly good, with a couple of minor issues. First was one of the fans was misaligned by a millimeter or two. A little side of drill bit action to enlarge the fan mounting frame holes was all that was needed.

    Once the radiator was seated it was not quite parallel with the car. The end makes contact on the passenger side, but nowhere else. I added a piece of hard rubber to prevent metal to metal contact (bottom image). I plan on driving it a bit, and then loosen everything and see if it seats any better.

    It appears as though I did not fully burp the system as temps rose above normal during a test drive. I'll try again tomorrow.

    I also plan on getting some silicone hoses sooner than later and a new thermostat for good measure. It would have been nice if I had them today. I'm thinking the best replacement thermostat is OEM - any opinions (SD_GR, brfatal)?



    Last edited by Sasquatch; 02-26-2011 at 05:22 PM.
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  7. #21
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    I just did my timing belt and went with an authentic Subaru Tstat because the old one was still working great and they are cheaper than the fancy stats. I also used a Suaru gasket. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts. I looked up the spec and used a torque wrench to be certain.

    If you are coming up on tbelt service time you may as well do the hoses and stat with the water pump to save yourself the trouble plus a gasket maybe?
    Last edited by SD_GR; 02-26-2011 at 05:21 PM.
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  8. #22
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I just did my timing belt and went with an authentic Subaru Tstat because the old one was still working great and they are cheaper than the fancy stats. I also used a Suaru gasket. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts. I looked up the spec and used a torque wrench to be certain.

    If you are coming up on tbelt service time you may as well do the hoses and stat with the water pump to save yourself the trouble plus a gasket maybe?
    Thanks. OEM gasket ... any sealant? At 57k miles a timing belt is not in the future.
    Last edited by Sasquatch; 02-26-2011 at 06:06 PM.
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  9. #23
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    have you looked at the gspeed t stat?
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  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    have you looked at the gspeed t stat?
    Yes, but am unsure about the lower 160 degree spec.
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    Is there any negative effect of going from a 180-190* running temp to a 160-170* running temp?
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  12. #26
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    Is there any negative effect of going from a 180-190* running temp to a 160-170* running temp?
    Not so sure. The claim made here is appealing: GrimmSpeed

    "Many OEM style T-Stats can have a very negative effect on your vehicle, if they fail, they fail closed and your car will overheat. But not ours! If there is a failure with our T-Stat, it will fail in the OPEN position allowing coolant to flow and keep your engine temps under control".

    Is this for real?
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  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch View Post
    Thanks. OEM gasket ... any sealant? At 57k miles a timing belt is not in the future.
    At 57K mi a thermostat should not be in the future. I see no reason to expect a tstat failure; I changed mine because the water pump, that contains the tstat housing, was out of the car anyway.

    I don't recall if I used any sealant. I don't think it's necessary because I don't recall the repair manual calling for any.

    I might consider a non-Subaru tstat if I had a definite need for lower temps and it were, say, roughly the same price as the OEM. But the OEM is proven and inexpensive. I've stuck with OEM. Tough choice to make though, I see your dilemma.
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  14. #28
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    I'm still on the stock thermostat.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    At 57K mi a thermostat should not be in the future. I see no reason to expect a tstat failure; I changed mine because the water pump, that contains the tstat housing, was out of the car anyway.

    I don't recall if I used any sealant. I don't think it's necessary because I don't recall the repair manual calling for any.

    I might consider a non-Subaru tstat if I had a definite need for lower temps and it were, say, roughly the same price as the OEM. But the OEM is proven and inexpensive. I've stuck with OEM. Tough choice to make though, I see your dilemma.
    Thanks. Maybe I am premature with a replacement at 57k.

    I got the last of the bubbles out and all seems OK.
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  16. #30
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    About the metal-to-metal contact. If it's only on the top where the photo shows the piece of rubber, and the rad doesn't settle when you check it next time as you said, could you use a modified retainer bracket? The one from Subaru has a fixed screw hole on the car side and a "wobble" fitting (I don't know how to say it) on the rad side, and it only bolts onto the car side. Could you grab a spare bracket and experiment with a different hole placement? Just throwing out ideas.
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    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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