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This is a discussion on Can I disconnect My Back Brakes? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by teikyo30 So which pads do I use? I've seen them ranging from a pair to 0 ...

  1. #76
    Registered User jd92677's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teikyo30 View Post
    So which pads do I use? I've seen them ranging from $22 a pair to $150 a pair. And is this something that can easily be done in cold weather? Do I need an impact or just take the wheels off like i would if I were changing the tire?
    No impact needed, when it comes to brake pads, you usually get what you pay for. I would recommend seeing what OEM would cost and if it's reasonable, go that route. I've had really good luck with Duralast C-max pads, although I've never put them on a WRX before. When my brakes need to be replaced I think I'm going hawk pads
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    You dont need an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, just a good breaker bar. The impact is quicker and easier however. A torque wrench *should* be used for final tightening after you put them back on but you can just use the same ol breaker bar and just make sure to put some oomf into em as you tighten them backdown. Dont forget to tighten in a star pattern.
    (you can rent torque wrenches from local auto parts places but for one that makes 90lb/ft it might not be cheap)

    pads wise, just use the factory replacements. If you're not modded there's no sense in going nuts with brake parts. The factory spec stuff is pretty decent. Getting them from the dealer wont be cheap but they'll be exactly what the car came with. Going to autozoo or the like will get you oem quality stuff (after market mfr's have to maintain same as oem standard or exceed it by federal law) a little cheaper but may not be exactly the same composition of friction material (might make more or less dust...but will stop just as well).

    Personally I hate working in the cold.. but if you can get some way to keep your hands toasty (dexterity will help the job go quicker) thats all the better. I'm sure with all the recent snow working on the ground is going to suck.. if you can get the car into a garage thats favorable but if not, see if you can score some cardboard or old carpet to sit on while working on the car. Sitting on cold/wet ground gets old fast even if its a short job.

    You'll also need a floor jack and jackstand (stands come in pairs.. but generally are not very expensive) Make sure you properly and securely support the car. A long handled 3/8" drive wratchet too.. I highly recommend the long handle. Leverage is your friend.. especially if the caliper bolts are pesky. Penetrating oil.. pb blaster or liquid wrench. both work really well and should be applied to any/all rusty bolts prior to loosening. Let it chill for a little while before you have at it. This keeps the possibility of breaking a bolt to a minimum.
    You may want to snag up a Allen head set (3mm-8mm or so) for your wratchet.. as well as a set of torx bits. (if you dont use either set durin the job I'm 100% sure you will use them at some point.) These are all available at autozone or sears.

    While at the auto parts store, along with one can of penetrating oil also get two or three cans of brake cleaner. I prefer the cheapy autozone generic stuff. You'll want to hose down the brakes to get the gunk off before you start in.. as well as hosing off the new rotors to get any coating or oils off of them.

    as much as I hate to feed the retail monster, the antiseize packets they try to sell you along with the pads are actually usefull. smear it on the back (NON friction side) of the pads on isntall and it stops them from squealing. That stuff is also good to use to lube the caliper bolt threads and any sliding/moving parts.

    Once you finish this job and get back to us you'll be a new man .. I'm tellin ya, once you're finished and it works you'll have much more confidence working on your own ride. We've all literally been in that spot, unsure... uneducated.. that first step and the courage to take it are the most important.

    Oh! side note.. I do this with drum brakes because they're like puzzles.. shoot pics as you go a long, especially if you're unsure how something might go back together (usually not a problem with disk brakes but it can be helpful) .. and do one side at a time. Not only that but if you need help you can upload the pics and we can better see what step you're at.
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teikyo30 View Post
    So which pads do I use? I've seen them ranging from $22 a pair to $150 a pair. And is this something that can easily be done in cold weather? Do I need an impact or just take the wheels off like i would if I were changing the tire?
    I wouldn't go overboard with pads.

    Since you're just doing pads, I'd recommend either of these:
    KNS Brakes
    KNS Brakes

    The StopTechs will offer a bit more bite, but come at a slightly higher cost. Personally, I have a set of the Posi-Quiets in a box awaiting spring for install (the guys at Turn-in Concepts turned me onto those pads).
    Last edited by EJ257; 02-02-2011 at 06:03 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    I wouldn't go overboard with pads.

    Since you're just doing pads, I'd recommend either of these:
    KNS Brakes
    KNS Brakes

    The StopTechs will offer a bit more bite, but come at a slightly higher cost. Personally, I have a set of the Posi-Quiets in a box awaiting spring for install (the guys at Turn-in Concepts turned me onto those pads).
    Can any of those be found at places like Autozone for around the same price so I don't have to wait for them to be shipped?

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    My mechanic friend tried to tell me today that rear brakes are completely different from front brakes. I said I don't think so. The DIY videos I checked out didn't look any different. He's wrong, right? He seems to think it's a completely different process doing the back.

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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    They're the same.. he's probably thinking of cars that have disk brakes in front and drum brakes in back.

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    Registered User Timdog1650's Avatar
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    The actual pads/calibers/rotors are in fact different in dimensions, but in terms of how they work and how you would work on them/replace the pads, it's the same. The rears are generally smaller than the fronts in 99% of cars.

  9. #83
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teikyo30 View Post
    Can any of those be found at places like Autozone for around the same price so I don't have to wait for them to be shipped?
    Not those pads. Pepboys I think carries EBC. Nothing wrong with going to NAPA and getting some Raybestos Professional pads. Just don't buy the cheapest you can get.
    Last edited by Donkey; 02-03-2011 at 08:19 AM.
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    Hey I have a question since we're on rear vs front.. do the pistons in our rear calipers have to be threaded back in or can they be pushed in manually?

    I've come across cars in the past that worked both ways.. and my old GL wagon front calipers had to be turned/threaded back in.

    I'm probably quite a while off of needing to do brakes on my '10 so I figured I'd ask for the op's benefit.
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    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    Hey I have a question since we're on rear vs front.. do the pistons in our rear calipers have to be threaded back in or can they be pushed in manually?

    I've come across cars in the past that worked both ways.. and my old GL wagon front calipers had to be turned/threaded back in.

    I'm probably quite a while off of needing to do brakes on my '10 so I figured I'd ask for the op's benefit.
    No, they don't. Only calipers with an emergency brake built in will need to be threaded back in. Our cars have small emergency brake shoes inside of the rear rotors. Your old GL had the emergency brakes built into the front calipers. It's the only car I've ever seen that has that setup.

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    /\Maybe thats Subaru's older version of the "Hill Holder" option with the EB in the front?

    Hill-holder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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  13. #87
    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    /\Maybe thats Subaru's older version of the "Hill Holder" option with the EB in the front?

    Hill-holder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Not all had the hillholder, but all of them did have the Ebrake on the front wheels. Subaru really was weird and quite half ass in their designs for years. They only started to almost conform to the norm in the early 90's. It's no coincidence that is the time period they started to build steam and become popular.

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    Alfa Romeo Alfasud, two Citroens, and I think the 70s-80s in-house Saabs -- not the 9000s that were cost-shared with the FIAT Chroma, Alfa 164, and Lancia Thema -- had the front wheels connected to the hand brake too.

    Subaru were in good company (quirky, beloved cars that generally didn't run).

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    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Alfa Romeo Alfasud, two Citroens, and I think the 70s-80s in-house Saabs -- not the 9000s that were cost-shared with the FIAT Chroma, Alfa 164, and Lancia Thema -- had the front wheels connected to the hand brake too.

    Subaru were in good company (quirky, beloved cars that generally didn't run).
    And you have a great way with words

  16. #90
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex View Post
    No, they don't. Only calipers with an emergency brake built in will need to be threaded back in. Our cars have small emergency brake shoes inside of the rear rotors. Your old GL had the emergency brakes built into the front calipers. It's the only car I've ever seen that has that setup.
    ah cool.. yeah imagine my surprise the first time I grabbed the E-brake in a snowy parking lot thinking I was gonna have some awd drifting fun... NOT what I expected lol.
    Mine was a auto so no hill holder. I bought it for the x but she hated wagons (small self image problems.. ahem..one of many reasons she's an x) so I drove it.. it was loaded, had all the goodies.. other than the front e-brake the car had very few quirks and worked quite reliably for me. Changing front cv's in that car was fun too.. yikes. Hopefully the new ones aren't that much of a pita. lol
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