Possible Blow By?

[enzomatic]

Just picked up an 05 with about 80k on it. I have a strong fuel smell in the oil and also a burning oil smell. I am sure the oil is seeping out of a gasket somewhere (not my first scooby, not my first rodeo w/ a fuji boxer) At this point I am tempted to just have the motor pulled, rings replaced, timing belt, etc just because it is getting close to timing belt time anyways and I have no idea what the previous owner put this car through.

Any actual mechs out there that can tell me how much $$$ I may be looking at to get this done. Also, any maintenance I can do to alleviate any no-brainers. I plan on doing plugs, wires, PCV, and cleaning the MAF this weekend. Anything else?

[armindk]

Any blue smoke coming out of the pipe? The fuel smell could be from a leaky injector or from the hoses of the EVAP system which are somewhat around the oil cap area if that's where you are smelling the fuel from. Unless you drained the oil and smelled the fuel in there, I wouldn't jump into rebuilding the engine just yet. Also change the oil to see if it comes back and if you are doing your plugs, you might as well get a compression test to see if there is a leak or not. Also there aren't any wires either just individual coils.

[enzomatic]

Any blue smoke coming out of the pipe? The fuel smell could be from a leaky injector or from the hoses of the EVAP system which are somewhat around the oil cap area if that's where you are smelling the fuel from. Unless you drained the oil and smelled the fuel in there, I wouldn't jump into rebuilding the engine just yet. Also change the oil to see if it comes back and if you are doing your plugs, you might as well get a compression test to see if there is a leak or not. Also there aren't any wires either just individual coils.

Sniffin' the dipstick brotha. It's in the oil for sure, no fuel smell in the engine compartment. What kind of compression ratio am I looking for in this thing anyways?

[SD_GR]

At 300 rpm, from 142 to 171 PSI (981 to 1177 kPa).

Service limit is 121 PSI at 350 rpm, and max acceptable Δ between cyls is 7 PSI.

[22B05STI]

At 300 rpm, from 142 to 171 PSI (981 to 1177 kPa).

Service limit is 121 PSI at 350 rpm, and max acceptable Δ between cyls is 7 PSI.

If you have fuel in the oil it is quite likely there is a bad injector, it will washdown the cylinder walls with fuel and get past the rings into the oil, not a good thing as the pistons tend to scuff the bores quite badly in this situation (without the proper lubrication) due to the fuel .

Just a quick add on. some info about compression tests !!



#1 make sure the engine is warm #2 the battery and starter are in good condition. (factory specs are that it must turn at 350 rpm during test but basically a good battery and starter and you will be fine)
#3 all the spark plugs are removed
#4 fully open the throttle
#5 crank the engine

Subaru recommends removing fuel pressure to perform test but I don't think it effects numbers I can post how to if you want that info (I think its more of a safety issue)

some other little facts about the engine so you can record and know exactly what you have. cyl numbers are: RH front is #1 RH rear is #3 (RH being passenger side of the car)
LH front is #2 LH rear is #4

spark plugs should be torqed to 10 ftlbs, I always put a little antiseize. If dry then factory spec is 15.2 ftlbs

the coils should be torqed to 11.7 ftlbs

the spark plugs threads are 14mm so you will need 14mm adapter for your compression tester. My compression tester has all the sizes with it! I hope that this info is helpful to anyone wanting to do a compression test

[enzomatic]

If you have fuel in the oil it is quite likely there is a bad injector, it will washdown the cylinder walls with fuel and get past the rings into the oil, not a good thing as the pistons tend to scuff the bores quite badly in this situation (without the proper lubrication) due to the fuel .

Just a quick add on. some info about compression tests !!



#1 make sure the engine is warm #2 the battery and starter are in good condition. (factory specs are that it must turn at 350 rpm during test but basically a good battery and starter and you will be fine)
#3 all the spark plugs are removed
#4 fully open the throttle
#5 crank the engine

Subaru recommends removing fuel pressure to perform test but I don't think it effects numbers I can post how to if you want that info (I think its more of a safety issue)

some other little facts about the engine so you can record and know exactly what you have. cyl numbers are: RH front is #1 RH rear is #3 (RH being passenger side of the car)
LH front is #2 LH rear is #4

spark plugs should be torqed to 10 ftlbs, I always put a little antiseize. If dry then factory spec is 15.2 ftlbs

the coils should be torqed to 11.7 ftlbs

the spark plugs threads are 14mm so you will need 14mm adapter for your compression tester. My compression tester has all the sizes with it! I hope that this info is helpful to anyone wanting to do a compression test

So if compression is good I should start looking for a stinky spark plug I am assuming? Where is a good place to get oem injectors at a good price? I don't plan on doing much to this car aside from replacing the up-pipe, intake, maybe a cat-back (living at 8500' in a county with no emissions standards is a tempting proposition though).