Because the transmission stops spinning so the engine has less load on it, which allows it to run with ease at lower RPMs.
This is a discussion on Un-rev in gear? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Start the car, let the revs drop (due to temperature increase) to about 1250-1500 (not tried higher/lower than this range), ...
Start the car, let the revs drop (due to temperature increase) to about 1250-1500 (not tried higher/lower than this range), with clutch down, pop it into 1st. The engine slows down by about 250rpm...
...why?
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
Because the transmission stops spinning so the engine has less load on it, which allows it to run with ease at lower RPMs.
Scott
Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
'13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
'04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
'77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
When you put it in gear, the clutch engages just a bit. Giving the engine just a little load, not enough to move the car but it is there. I saw this when you have the car up on jackstands, if you put it in gear, the wheels will start spinning slowly. That tells me that the clutch is still touching the flywheel a little bit.
This seems like a terrible idea - if you sat there all day with the clutch all the way down and the engine on and in gear, the clutch would burn up?
Why would they design this into the car? Does it mean that we have to adjust our clutches, or is it just supposed to do that?
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
No no, it's not nearly enough friction to heat up the clutch. It just touches the flywheel a little, by that I mean very little. It's just because they're so close to each other. Besides, who would sit all day with their car in gear and the clutch depressed?
Scott
Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
'13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
'04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
'77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading
so basically, they're designed to be separate, but it's pretty much tolerances that make them touch?
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
That is correct, that is why it goes down a few rpms when you put it in gear
You're not reading the gauge properly. The gauge starts at 500 rpm. Proper, warmed idle is going to be around 750-850 rpm
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
I'm sure she was talking about warmed up already. We're talking about cold idle.
My big thread: The Used WRX Buying Checklist - Please Contribute!
My current car: 2002 WRB WRX Wagon.
Mods: GM BCS, Carberry SD rom, uppipe, AEM UEGO, Klunk Killer, F+R shifter bushings, head unit
Engines idle between 750 to 850 as stated before.
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