So if any of you have seen my I got lucky thread, I got not so lucky, and hit a guardrail. Here's a picture I actually took when it was sunny:
As you can see, minor damage all things considered - I can't see any frame damage, definitely no engine damage, just a crushed bumper and fender. The head and fog lights are cracked, but every light is still operational (the headlight crack is minor compared to the ugliness it has earlier, the fog lights will become hella 500's wayyy down the line anyway ).
I have a few questions:
#1: how the hell did this happen? I was trying to analyze how the torque shift would have been for this to have happened, and it seems like it had to totally disregard the rules of how the diffs are built. What happened, to start (before my corrections and whatnot): I was at a stop, turning left, I give it a little too much gas (prolly 3k "launch" - not hard clutch dump, slow slip out). I go a little bit, but oh wait, the rear steps out, a LOT. The other major factor was that is was just raining - all the roads were at their worst - slick, but no standing water yet. How is that possible? I had 70 lbs of bowling balls directly over the back wheels, but I could still see the tires moving into kinetic friction (the tires aren't the newest - I will replace these. They have good tread, I thought, but still...). The thing that gets me is the fact that the rear slipped out at all - shouldn't the torque have moved to the front immediately in response to decreased rear traction? Even if it had gone back for that small time, wouldn't the front wheels prevail for understeer after that (or did that just happen at the same time as oversteer)?
After somebody explains the physics to me, I think I'll be much more satisfied, since it was my fault, knowing more about my car to do better next time. But there's a few questions about the car still...
Q2: I got my clutch today - on the instruction sheet, there's a big thing about how you could get symptoms of clutch slip at hard acceleration from a bad rear axle shaft retaining clip. I haven't lifted my car to see, but if I had this, could this have helped mess up where the torque went (because it says it does something with changing how the gears line up in the rear diff)?
Q3: Fixing the problem. I need a new bumper, no questions asked. I'm wondering if it looks like I'll be able to get away with having a body shop straighten the fender instead of replace... I will just take it there, but I want to be prepared, and try to get cheaper prices on anything I can (oh you're going bodykit? Sell me your WRB bumper!)
At this point, and tips, advice, physical explanations of the situation, etc. would be helpful and greatly appreciated, thanks!