Troubleshooting Brake Problems...
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This is a discussion on Troubleshooting Brake Problems... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; While I'm putting more power to the wheels with all of my recent upgrades, I think it's finally time for ...

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    Troubleshooting Brake Problems...

    While I'm putting more power to the wheels with all of my recent upgrades, I think it's finally time for me to address my brake issues. I figure replacing the entire ball of wax (new pads and rotors all around) should cure all issues, but I want to make sure.

    First, rear rotors' contact area is dull, both sides of the car. Temp check (ouch!) after daily driving indicates not full contact. The rotors are warm, but only slightly. When compared to the fronts...well, I don't want to touch them. Know what I mean? Pads seem OK with some life left. No squeals or wear indicators touching the rotor.

    Second, while braking fairly hard, front brakes vibrate pretty badly. I suspect warped rotors. This hopefully should be an easy fix.

    While braking, the car does dip down in the front a bit (slightly), indicating that the rear brakes aren't biting in as hard as they should. But would simply replacing the pads take care of this? Can a rotor become glazed and prevent a pad from fully biting in?

    All calipers seem OK as I did a cleaning/lubing/painting session all around last year. Brake fluid was also flushed and replaced and all air bled out.

    Please lend a little help for my brake issues as I have described. Thanks.

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    Registered User EvoEatr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:43AM View Post
    While I'm putting more power to the wheels with all of my recent upgrades, I think it's finally time for me to address my brake issues. I figure replacing the entire ball of wax (new pads and rotors all around) should cure all issues, but I want to make sure.

    First, rear rotors' contact area is dull, both sides of the car. Temp check (ouch!) after daily driving indicates not full contact. The rotors are warm, but only slightly. When compared to the fronts...well, I don't want to touch them. Know what I mean? Pads seem OK with some life left. No squeals or wear indicators touching the rotor.

    Second, while braking fairly hard, front brakes vibrate pretty badly. I suspect warped rotors. This hopefully should be an easy fix.

    While braking, the car does dip down in the front a bit (slightly), indicating that the rear brakes aren't biting in as hard as they should. But would simply replacing the pads take care of this? Can a rotor become glazed and prevent a pad from fully biting in?

    All calipers seem OK as I did a cleaning/lubing/painting session all around last year. Brake fluid was also flushed and replaced and all air bled out.

    Please lend a little help for my brake issues as I have described. Thanks.

    If you are pretty hard on your brakes which it seems like you say you are, than I would not just pad slap anything...As you mentioned the rear pads are only hitting certain parts of the rotor, well if you just pad slap it and do nothing with the rotors than the new pads will wear into the groves of the rotor, Personally If I were you and you feel like doing it, I would prob. replace all around pads and rotors, If the rotors are thick enough to be machined, and in somewhat decent condition, than you could go that route however a machined rotor does warp a tad faster than a new rotor ( I know this from tons of experience haha )... Also make sure none of your calipers are seized, fore this would def. increase wear on your pads and rotors...

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    I hear you on replacing everything all around. That may be the most effective solution. I'll have to snap a pic of the rear rotors to show what they look like.

    I am normally not too hard on the brakes, but something you gotta be in case of a quick slowdown or an emergency.

    The thing I worry about when replacing the rotors from the robust OEMs is rust. I hate the excessive rusting that takes place on uncoated metal rotors.

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    Registered User fortunesk89's Avatar
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    on most cars 80% of the braking force is done in the front. front end will dip on hard braking. as far as the vibration machine or replace the rotors. try going 50-60 in straight line and hit the brakes firmly not slam on em watch the steering wheel if it shakes id suspect the front rotors
    2002 plat. silver wrx

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    As said above,most cars the front brakes do 70-80% of the braking. Every car will dip in the front if you mash the brakes. Also brakes do need occasional maintenance. I generally change the brake fluid once a year and every 6 months pull the pads,clean their guides and regrease them. The caliper pins need cleaning and regreasing as well. Vibrating front rotors are probably due to uneven pad deposits or possibly wheel bearings as apposed to "warped" rotors.

    http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
    http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
    http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_padremoval.shtml
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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    USDM got rear rotors that are too small to lessen the chance of snap oversteer I assume - apparently we are not supposed to be as good of drivers as the rest of the world.

    Do the H6 upgrade if you want what everyone else got. This should help a little with making the rears work harder.

    I'm not sure if the noted front dive is abnormal or an issue - that would actually increase with an ALK.

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=522006

    Definitely service it all. I have found Axxis Ultimates are great about not leaving deposits or vibrating.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    For those who responded after my last post, thanks. I will look into it all. Perhaps this weekend, I will pull the wheels and inspect the brakes again.

    I greased the crap out of the caliper pins last year and changed the fluid.

    I think I have bad deposits on the rear rotors, preventing max pad grip. Like I said, the rotor surface is hazy and stained looking. Front rotors, on the other hand, are bright, shiny and clean.

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