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This is a discussion on Rough Idle within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; haha i replaced my sparks at the same time as my clutch haha so the engine was out of the ...

  1. #16
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    haha i replaced my sparks at the same time as my clutch haha so the engine was out of the car :]

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  3. #17
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_the_Chick View Post
    No CEL. Methinks new coil packs are in order. Any suggestions?
    I reckon you'd be seeing cylinder misfire CELs if your coil packs were bad.

    I was thinking that everyone (including me) may be overcomplicating this issue. Fritz, I'd say head to the local advance auto parts (gag me), autozone, or pep boys, and pick up a can of MAF cleaner. It may smooth out your idle, especially if you are running an oiled filter.
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    my bugeye has a rough idle compared to the cars i work on daily. no cels ever, changed my plugs, fuel filter, cleaned my maf, along with other items when i bought it.. never resolved my issue so i dont worry about it any more i dont think its harmful and it doesnt hurt my performance.
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  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    I was thinking that everyone (including me) may be overcomplicating this issue. Fritz, I'd say head to the local advance auto parts (gag me), autozone, or pep boys, and pick up a can of MAF cleaner. It may smooth out your idle, especially if you are running an oiled filter.
    I love it when things turn out easy. Will do. Thanks for the tip, Zax.

    In other, more exciting news: It's time to start talking exhaust and tune! I should be able to pull the whole thing off in September; I figure I may as well do the full exhaust and tune if I'm pulling off the down pipe--since it's such a pain in the a$$, anyway.

    So, what do people have and what suggestions can be made?

  6. #20
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    Update: I researched a CRC PDF on cleaning the MAF sensor, and CRC is advising that one should NOT use their product on turbochargers. On the other hand, I'm reading all sorts of postings that ppl have done this with the electronic spray cleaner with decent results.

    I'm wary of screwing this up; do I take the whole thing out of the car before spraying?

  7. #21
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    What is "the whole thing" -- the MAF sensor? Yes, remove it. Unplug the harness gently. Make note of how the sensor was oriented WRT the harness and intake. Then go someplace safe and spray according to the instructions. You may have to do this more than once (I had to do it twice within a year on one car to get rid of a pesky CEL).

    While you are at it check the air filter and make sure the filter cover is seated correctly in its tabs.

    However I've not seen a dirty MAF cause a rough idle with no CEL. I haven't seen a dirty MAF help the car either, but usually a dirty MAF will cause a PO171 that will come up under progressive load, say going up a grade in top gear at motorway speeds.
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  8. #22
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_the_Chick View Post
    Update: I researched a CRC PDF on cleaning the MAF sensor, and CRC is advising that one should NOT use their product on turbochargers. On the other hand, I'm reading all sorts of postings that ppl have done this with the electronic spray cleaner with decent results.

    I'm wary of screwing this up; do I take the whole thing out of the car before spraying?
    I use CRC MAF cleaning spray without a hitch. Just be sure to let the MAF sensor fully dry (~ 30 min. - 1 hour) before replacing into the intake system.
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  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    However I've not seen a dirty MAF cause a rough idle with no CEL. I haven't seen a dirty MAF help the car either, but usually a dirty MAF will cause a PO171 that will come up under progressive load, say going up a grade in top gear at motorway speeds.
    SD, I have seen this. On my own car. Recently. You do not throw a CEL unless the AFR is too far out of range. My car was idling extremely rough. It was a few days before I threw a CEL. I cleaned my MAF, cleared the CEL code, and voila problem resolved.
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  10. #24
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    That is interesting. Thanks for the info. So the OP would do well to give it a try.
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  11. #25
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    Update! I checked the back of the can. One shouldn't use CRC with Toyota superchargers or Lexus vehicles, I guess because of the sensor they use. So, that clears that up.

    Onward: I did unclip the wiring harness and remove said sensor and sprayed it. The back of the can said to wait 10 minutes for proper drying. Because I do everything fast and wrong, I waited five. I put everything back together, making sure that everything was battened down properly. I started my car and...it's still idling around 500rpm.

    But then I read Zak's suggestion to wait thirty minutes to an hour to let the sensor dry. So, who knows? Still no CEL, which means there are a number of different reasons:
    1. The car is fine
    2. The car is generally fine but needs to get tuned by a professional who knows what the hell he's doing
    Or
    3. The sensor box is broken
    Or possibly
    4. The dealer pulled a fuse. Ha ha.

    Crap. I'm going to check my fuse box.

  12. #26
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    It can't be idling around 500 rpm. If it were, the tach needle would not move when the motor is turned on vs. when it is off. The first graduation on the tach is actually 750 rpm. If it put-put-puts a bit like a VW but liquid cooled (I'd have said like an Alfa 4cyl liquid cooled boxer, but those don't run so they're similar but don't provide a frame of reference) it may just be OK.

    Since your 60K is due you're going to be replacing quite a bit of stuff. See what happens. Have you checked the battery terminals and the connections to the alternator plus the ground connections to the motor and gearbox? Does the idle hunt around a lot or does the car just feel lumpy?
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  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    If it put-put-puts a bit like a VW but liquid cooled (I'd have said like an Alfa 4cyl liquid cooled boxer, but those don't run so they're similar but don't provide a frame of reference) it may just be OK.
    Agreed. Like Merk stated earlier, we may simply find that the issue lies in the OP's lack of exposure to boxer engines.
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  14. #28
    Registered User Fritz_the_Chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    It can't be idling around 500 rpm. If it were, the tach needle would not move when the motor is turned on vs. when it is off...Have you checked the battery terminals and the connections to the alternator plus the ground connections to the motor and gearbox? Does the idle hunt around a lot or does the car just feel lumpy?
    Dude, I'm going to have a heart attack. I don't even know what half of that looks like.

    The idle is NOT hunting around. The engine sounds fine. I just read in another thread that the little mark that is evenly placed between 0 and 1 on the tach is actually 750rpm, so I'm good there.

    I think that "OP not knowing what the hell she is talking about" is probably our best diagnosis.

    In other news, I'm only getting about 18.7mpg. Lighten up on the skinny pedal? Roll to work in neutral? Stop using the AC?

    And yes, I'm sure the 60k service will either tell us that I bought a lemon OR everything is fine and I'm a hypochondriac about my dog and my cat AND my WRX.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_the_Chick View Post
    I think that "OP not knowing what the hell she is talking about" is probably our best diagnosis.
    A tad bit harsh on yourself and not at all what was meant by my comment. Let me clarify by saying that the boxer engine has a definite tactile difference from a straight or vee engine. You may be confusing that difference for a fault.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_the_Chick View Post
    In other news, I'm only getting about 18.7mpg. Lighten up on the skinny pedal? Roll to work in neutral? Stop using the AC?
    I have seen around 19 mpg with spirited driving.
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  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_the_Chick View Post
    Dude, I'm going to have a heart attack. I don't even know what half of that looks like.
    That's not necessarily a bad thing. There are so many things in life I wish I could forget or have never learned.

    The idle is NOT hunting around. The engine sounds fine. I just read in another thread that the little mark that is evenly placed between 0 and 1 on the tach is actually 750rpm, so I'm good there.
    OK great.

    I think that "OP not knowing what the hell she is talking about" is probably our best diagnosis.
    See if you can find another owner locally and listen to their car for comparison.

    In other news, I'm only getting about 18.7mpg. Lighten up on the skinny pedal? Roll to work in neutral? Stop using the AC?
    All of those would help, as would your driving habits. I think I once broke 30 mpg but have not repeated the feat. No A/C, motorway driving and I have a very light foot.

    And yes, I'm sure the 60k service will either tell us that I bought a lemon OR everything is fine and I'm a hypochondriac about my dog and my cat AND my WRX.
    They're not mutually exclusive; it could tell us both... I'm just kidding. It is likely you have not described a problem with the idle. The car is practically new with 60K miles on it. Get up to date on the maintenance and see what happens. Look around the fora here too, at the sticky threads and see what info you find interesting.
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