Turbo Inlet Hose Question
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This is a discussion on Turbo Inlet Hose Question within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I've been doing some maintenance work on my new(to me) 03 WRX. After replacing the PCV valve, I noticed my ...

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    Registered User sbarmann's Avatar
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    Turbo Inlet Hose Question

    I've been doing some maintenance work on my new(to me) 03 WRX. After replacing the PCV valve, I noticed my car was driving like it had no boost. I began re tightening and rechecking everything and I noticed that the clamp for the turbo inlet hose was crooked. I pressed on it with a blunt object and noticed the clamp wasn't holding onto anything on one part. I reset the clamp so it's actually on the flange but the turbo inlet hose is malformed from staying that way for so long. The rubber also seems very weak, almost deteriorated. My question is, as I'm trying to stay mainly stock, is there a benefit to the perrin inlet hose? Is it mainly just an OEM replacement that holds up longer? I don't want to change my factory airbox but I think I'll have a hard time finding an OEM replacement inlet hose that's in good shape and affordable. Is there any drawbacks to the perrin(other than the long install)? I just want something that will last and I won't have to worry about boost leaks anymore. I'm worried that the inlet hose I have now will tear and rip over time from pressure. Thanks in advance.

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    No draw backs. You might see slightly quicker spool. The biggest reason to replace the stock inlet is for the reason you're doing it.

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    Registered User cjm1991's Avatar
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    I noticed a tiny difference in spool and sound with mine. I replaced it because mine looked terrible after a turbo swap. This thing is a hard part to put on and takes time. I kinda wish I would have got the AVO inlet, its made to fit better on the turbo.
    Chris
    02 Camaro z28 T-Tops, m6 49k miles
    Bolt ons and tuned - 349rwhp/362rwtq
    02 Ws6 T-Top,m6 80k miles
    Bolt ons/Cam/tune - 436rwhp/424rwtq

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    Registered User sbarmann's Avatar
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    I looked at the inlet again today and it is definitely torn. I'm driving it very cautiously right now until I can get a replacement. Do you actually have to remove the intake manifold to replace this, or does it just make it easier? I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't mess anything up, like doing an up pipe without accounting for anything else; or an intake without a tune.

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    Registered User sbarmann's Avatar
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    Just an update.

    I ended up installing a GMS (Gimmick Motor Sports) turbo inlet hose. It was fairly straight forward and I was able to install it without removing the intake manifold (thankfully!!). I did have to remove the air intake box, MAF sensor, undo a power steering line, and remove the TMIC; but including clean-up, I think it took me around 2-3 hours. It took me a little longer because I was going to loosen the power steering pump so I didn't have to undo the lines, as I've heard a lot of people have problems with leaks afterwords. I decided to just remove the line, so I scribed it before hand and re tightened until the marks matched up and have had no leak.

    The fitment of the part was great. The cuts were clean and it included everything that you need. It was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. It's a bit of a pain to get the new inlet hose through the same space but it probably took all of 5 minutes. Another good piece of advice(which I read from this forum) is to use rubbing alcohol on the inside of the new inlet hose to lubricate it and allow easier installation. The best part about the rubbing alcohol is that it dries without leaving residue and will not allow the hose to weasel off later.

    Another piece of advice is to attach the fitting for the after-MAF hose on first so you can insert it as an assembly after the turbo inlet hose is in place. The coupling between the after MAF hose and the turbo inlet hose is a little hard to fit on the After MAF side, which honestly was the most aggravating part. It is a very tight fit, and mine was stock. If you have an aftermarket after MAF hose it should be a lot easier.

    Other than that, it is fairly straight forward. The GMS was a great price I feel for a replacement. I couldn't say if I would do this a mod because after I found the tear in the OEM unit, I drove under 3k until I replaced it. After that I reset the ECU and gradually got into more over the next couple of days. To me there was no power increase because of the conditions at the time. I feel this is a great reliability mod because I feel the GMS unit will not fail for a long time because it is well made.

    Sorry this post is so long, but I'm hoping it will help someone with the same problem I had in the future, and I thought it would be good to update as well. I appreciate the opinions and information as well.

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    Careful, GMS products are pretty straight forward subpar. Their inlet is known to collapse given you're running more boost than stock.

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