HELP. my 02 wants to go fast but she cant...
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This is a discussion on HELP. my 02 wants to go fast but she cant... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I am new here and very new to Subies, the closest thing i have ever owned with a turbo was ...

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    Question HELP. my 02 wants to go fast but she cant...

    I am new here and very new to Subies, the closest thing i have ever owned with a turbo was a 87 Audi 5000cs. great car! I bought a stock 02 wrx wagon two weeks ago with 80000k. It was kind of a spur of the moment buy, so i had not done my research, and went and bought a CAI first thing, i mean before i even registered the thing. The car ran great on my way to buy the intake, ran great after i bought the intake, for about 30 miles. then bam, it started sputtering, back firing, and NO power and low boost And the CEL came on with the dreaded p0171 code. So i did my research then and found out how bad the CAI was, so i lost it and put the stock intake back on minus the snorkus. I did all this with in 24 hours of owning the car. Car still ran like S***, and CEL was still on. When i say ran like S*** i mean no power, stumbling, and misfiring. so so i went a friend with a Cobb AP and he turned off the light. (at this point i didnt know anything about the hard reset.) I went and had it inspected before things got any worse and with the light being turned off by the cobb, i passed. Then i learned about the hard reset from CLUBWRX and did it. Wow this car is fast, i mean boom fast, everything worked great. I was hitting 13psi, no stumbling, no back firing. Drove the car for about 4 miles home, went to bed. Next day a buddy gave me a cat back magnaflow and my mech put it on. still no problems. car running great. then about 2 days later, car wont go above 6 or so psi. eveything running smooth at low RPMs would never know there was a prob until you punch it. Leak?? no checked it all. Waste gate stuck? no checked it 3 times. SO last night i just want to see if maybe i was missing a leak so i re set the ECU again, and bam, 13 psi rocket ship again. awesome. Car is so much fun. BUT after 9 miles. back to 6psi, slow as a civic. SOOO Bummed. my point is if it was a leak i wouldnt have gotten those 9 miles of bliss. or if it was the waste gate again i wouldnt have gotten those 9 miles of awesomeness. Again the car runs great. smooth idle, nice in any gear at low RPMs. the only time you know something is bad is when the turbo tries to kick in and it only get up to .04 on the factory gauge. It feels like a all motor car. no real pull. Not planing any more mods and i dont think the cat back is to blame or to much to ask for. Thinking it might be a comp prob but again this is my first wrx and i don't know these cars. So far i have cleaned the MAF, put in fuel injector cleaner, and i am doing the plugs 2mrw. any body got any advice on what to try next. i hate to beat a dead horse, but though there are similar stories on here every ones cars have so many mods you can never really tell what their prob is. This car has never been moded. NEED MY NEXT STEP.

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    really 41 people read this and no one has any advice

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    it sounds to me that your ECU may be restricting boost and pulling timing because it senses detonation. Is there any noticeable engine knock?
    Last edited by zax; 04-26-2010 at 11:30 AM.
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    thank you for the relpy. No knock, it has a slight (very slight) tick but nothing i am alarmed about. I have heard this same Slight tick on a few cars i had, and i asked subaru about it when i had them look at it and they said is is fairly norm. Did just go have it looked at, and it is kind of messed up that i didnt know this, but i have never seen one of these engines before. it has a cobb down pipe on it. A buddy of mine went to look the car over, called me an idiot and pointed at this massive pipe and said "subaru didnt make that) then went into his garage pull out his stock down pipe and show it to me(he has the same car). well he was right, i discovered i have a large down pipe. even weirder is that on my way out there i had to take the high way (this is a 30 min drive) first ten min before i got on the high way car is still not boosting. then i get on the high way and open it up in 4th and 5th, and bam she hits proper boost. i then realized that i had been on the highway yet since i reset the ecu. when i got off she was running about 13-14 psi all day. boost was back and has been for the 25 mile trip home as well. i am thinking the car had not finished it learning mode from the reset, and once i opened it up in 4th and fifth it sorted it all out. could this be the case? i have only driven about 60 mile from the reset and an wondering if i should wait until i hit 100 miles or so to see if the CEL comes on (for what i dont know) or go and buy an AP to tune it with the down pipe. will it mess up the engine if i wait. my buddy said some 02-03 dont NEED the tune and i could wait but he said i would prob want to do it some time. Car is running Great right now. need a good suby tech in MA. i know thats a lot but it is what it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pittielove View Post
    thank you for the relpy. No knock, it has a slight (very slight) tick but nothing i am alarmed about. I have heard this same Slight tick on a few cars i had, and i asked subaru about it when i had them look at it and they said is is fairly norm. Did just go have it looked at, and it is kind of messed up that i didnt know this, but i have never seen one of these engines before. it has a cobb down pipe on it. A buddy of mine went to look the car over, called me an idiot and pointed at this massive pipe and said "subaru didnt make that) then went into his garage pull out his stock down pipe and show it to me(he has the same car). well he was right, i discovered i have a large down pipe. even weirder is that on my way out there i had to take the high way (this is a 30 min drive) first ten min before i got on the high way car is still not boosting. then i get on the high way and open it up in 4th and 5th, and bam she hits proper boost. i then realized that i had been on the highway yet since i reset the ecu. when i got off she was running about 13-14 psi all day. boost was back and has been for the 25 mile trip home as well. i am thinking the car had not finished it learning mode from the reset, and once i opened it up in 4th and fifth it sorted it all out. could this be the case? i have only driven about 60 mile from the reset and an wondering if i should wait until i hit 100 miles or so to see if the CEL comes on (for what i dont know) or go and buy an AP to tune it with the down pipe. will it mess up the engine if i wait. my buddy said some 02-03 dont NEED the tune and i could wait but he said i would prob want to do it some time. Car is running Great right now. need a good suby tech in MA. i know thats a lot but it is what it is.
    Well there you have it. I have heard that the bugeyes don't necessarily have to be tuned for a stage 2 setup, but I would strongly STRONGLY urge you to purchase EM, or else put the stocker back on. BTW, you're not an idiot, just unfamiliar with the EJ engine. My recomendation: keep the DP, and buy a Cobb Accessport. If you want a complete stock setup, I'll buy the Cobb DP from you and give you my stock DP
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    Just some friendly advice...when you post stuff...can you try to break up the paragraphs...I know at least for me its really hard to read all that when its jumbled together....I looked at your first post and didn't even attempt to read it...I am in no way trying to be an ass...just saying!
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    well to tell you the truth i bought a used magnaflow for the cat back and it came with the cobb down pipe and and flex up pipe, which i didnt install on purpose because i didnt want/ need to so that is sitting in my basement. so looks like i have 2 cobb down pipes. lucky me. you in the boston area i suppose i will sell you one, and might even take you stock on as well. dont really have time to wrap and ship the thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pittielove View Post
    well to tell you the truth i bought a used magnaflow for the cat back and it came with the cobb down pipe and and flex up pipe, which i didnt install on purpose because i didnt want/ need to so that is sitting in my basement. so looks like i have 2 cobb down pipes. lucky me. you in the boston area i suppose i will sell you one, and might even take you stock on as well. dont really have time to wrap and ship the thing.
    Well I would buy it off of you if you'd consider shipping, and given the price, worth it for you. I dumped my stage 2 setup due to emissions testing, and now regret it...

    You're going to want to install that Up pipe ASAP. Lest you'd like your turbo to be blown to bits. Please read the following and judge for yourself:
    Attn '02-'05 WRX Owners: The Importance of the Uppipe Mod

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    Quote Originally Posted by pittielove View Post
    really 41 people read this and no one has any advice
    Welcome. I read your post -- I have to as a mod -- but it's not easy to do so because of the way it's assembled into a relatively long stream. This may have prevented people from responding sooner since it takes more time and concentration to simply read it than if paragraphs etc. were used. People may have taken a glance, saw the length, saw no breakups in the text, and moved onto a thread that's easier to read.

    You problem is IMO relatively simple and you are on the right path from the responses you've gotten.

    Your friend is correct: the bugeye cars do a lot better with the stock map and a modded exhaust than later cars. However, you will also see higher gains if you use a map for your specific parts.

    Since anyone of any age or background can become a member and read any thread from anywhere, please do not dodge the swear filter. Although this is tolerated in Off Topic, it is not something we do in other fora. Enjoy the site.
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    [QUOTE=SD_GR;2609752]Welcome. I read your post -- I have to as a mod -- but it's not easy to do so because of the way it's assembled into a relatively long stream. This may have prevented people from responding sooner since it takes more time and concentration to simply read it than if paragraphs etc. were used. People may have taken a glance, saw the length, saw no breakups in the text, and moved onto a thread that's easier to read.

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    Your car is doing some weird stuff and it isn't likely just a tuning issue (although that may patch it). Or, you got some really crappy gas and it is doing what it is supposed to do (unlikely because of the CEL).

    It does sound like your ECU is what is pulling the boost. It would do that by dropping IAM beyond a critical level and probably putting you into the failsafe fueling map as well. That was probably a response to knock detection or maybe it does that just because your fueling is out of range (skeptical on that). The CEL it threw probably indicates that something was far amiss with your a/f. Leaks can be hard to notice, fuel pressure or injection issue, bad front O2, MAF, etc. Running lean like that will cause knock.

    If you want to find out what is happening with your car I say forget Cobb and get an openport cable so you can properly log. Log the necessary items. Run learning view and see where your fuel trims are, knock learning, IAM etc.

    My guess is getting on the highway was the first time your car saw the load range for learning in the D cell fuel trim. That is the one it will apply to open loop (WOT). It probably finally added fuel there to make up for whatever issue your having, making your car drive better. It may keep creeping back up again until you hit the code. You want it within a couple % not 15% where it can't learn any more and the code triggers.

    You can also use the cable to flash a stage II map but your car really should be running better before you use a higher boost map. The stock map is WAY richer than any of the free opensource maps I have seen.

    Datalogging with Romraider:

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    Question help

    Does anyone here know why my car would be dropping boost on high rpms? I don't mean just a few pounds. It'll drop all the way down to 5 psi after 4500 rpm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugeye5 View Post
    Does anyone here know why my car would be dropping boost on high rpms? I don't mean just a few pounds. It'll drop all the way down to 5 psi after 4500 rpm.
    hello - please make sure you are creating your own thread - as posting in someone elses can get confusing [& it's against club rules]

    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/genera...ing-accidents/
    is where you should be posting :]

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    Mycol- I have no idea what you just said.

    the car seem to be running well now. gone 95 mile with out a CEL. hitting full boost, no sputtering. smooth all around. i think

    Mycol- are you saying there still might be something wrong with it?
    even if i bought the open port i wouldnt know how to use it. i know those links are somewhat directions but...really?
    I just want a daily driver, i didnt want the down pipe it was just there. if i need to learn this roomraider biz to make my daily driver healthy then i guess i will. but is there no other way? with out forking out lots of $$$.

    I guess what i am asking is, because the CEL didnt come back on am i ok. i have an up pipe to put in so i dont do my turbo in, but besides that can i just drive the car or what? like i said if you tell me i need to learn this computer program i will but i am a chef and after my 80 work week the last thing i want to do is that.

    So just to clear up where i stand 02 wrx wagon with a cobb down pipe to a cat, to a magna flow. Snorkus delete. and that is it. Do i really need this open port biz?

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    You can do most of the same diagnostics with an AP but then you have to learn how to use that and it costs more.

    You don't have to learn to tune it yourself and logging (or flashing stage II etc.) is pretty easy. Learning view you just plug it in, turn on the car and run the program, then look at the results (or post them). It is just the easiest way to tell if there is a problem and what it might be unless you want to take it to a tuner.

    It does sound like your car was having an issue but maybe something you did helped or it was just bad gas. You can keep driving it if the cel doesn't come back. If there is still a problem the car will protect itself for the most part but it isn't really ideal and it won't drive as well.

    I'd say just do the uppipe (all new gaskets) then get a tune if you don't want to mess with the cable. Your car will be much stronger at a proper stage II anyway.
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